Perfumes have been known as utilizable but exclusive products since
antiquity. Use of aromatic substances was first mentioned in archaic sources
of the ancient world. The origin of such fragrant substances was mainly
vegetable and animal. Throughout history, the use of subtle perfumes
increased and some of the exotic materials became expensive and valuable
commodities. They were the source of wealth for cultures and rulers. The
contribution of the Arabs to the distribution of new crops, knowledge,
industrial techniques and substances is a well-known phenomenon. In our
article we intend to focus on the new perfumes that were distributed
throughout the world thanks to the Arab conquests and the knowledge of their
other uses, mainly medicinal, that was handed down along with the products
themselves. About 20 common perfumes are known to have been used in the
medieval world, though half of them were not mentioned in earlier
sources.
These phenomena will be dealt with and presented in a profile we built up
for four perfumes: agarwood, camphor, musk and ambergris. The theoretical
and practical uses of these perfumes that are presented in detail (based on
various sources including traders’ documents, medical literature and
practical Genizah fragments, dealing mainly with medicine) will serve as
case studies for the understanding of new trends in the uses of perfumes
after the Muslim conquest. Arab perfumes can be divided into three groups,
according to their level of importance:
A. New perfumes, mainly from the vast region named “India”;
most of which (such as camphor, ambergris and sandalwood and a compound made
out of them known as nadd and ghāliya)
were not known in the Middle East and the Mediterranean region until the
Muslim conquests.
B. Perfumes that kept their popularity including: a variety of
cinnamon, costus, spikenard, frankincense, saffron and rose.
C. Perfumes that lost their worth like balsam and myrrh.
It seems that camphor was the best and most cherished perfume that
substituted balsam. Like balsam, the importance of myrrh that was imported
from Arabia and East Africa also declined and it seems that its substitute
was musk. Transformations in perfume fashion were in fact only part of a
wider revolution of the Arabic material culture which the Middle East, the
Mediterranean region and even many European countries experienced due to the
Arab conquests.