We conduct direct numerical simulations (DNS) to study the temporal and spatial developments of the roll waves on a laminar sheet flow of Newtonian fluid. The DNS unveil the physics of the wavefront and show the limitation of the widely used shallow-layer approximations. The most prominent wave, the front runner, is determined by the DNS for the first time in studying the spatial development of the laminar sheet flow with negligible surface tension. Depending on the Froude and Reynolds numbers, the front runner can be a multi-peaked undular bore or a single-peaked non-breaking or breaking wave. The simulation has uncovered an extended region behind the wavefront, where the bed-friction stress is much higher than the corresponding friction in the undisturbed uniform flow. It also produces an uplift velocity needed in the description of wave breaking. For comparison, we also examine the nonlinear development of the instability using two-equation and four-equation shallow-layer models. The two-equation shallow-layer model has produced the bulk of the wave profile but is deficient because it fails to predict the uplift velocity and the substantial increase in bed friction in the frontal region. The four-equation shallow-layer model correctly predicts the bed friction but cannot produce the breaking wave. The simulations also determine the celerity and amplitude of the front runner to follow a linear relationship, qualitatively similar to the roll waves in a turbulent flow.

Existing theoretical results for attenuation of surface waves propagating on water of random fluctuating depth are shown to over-predict the rate of decay due to the way in which ensemble averaging is performed. A revised approach is presented which corrects this and is shown to conserve energy. New theoretical predictions are supported by numerical results which use averaging of simulations of wave scattering over finite sections of random bathymetry for which transfer matrix eigenvalues are used to accurately measure decay. The model of wave propagation used in this paper is derived from a linearised long-wavelength assumption whereby depth averaging leads to time harmonic waves being represented as solutions to a simple ordinary differential equation. In this paper it is shown how this can be adapted to incorporate a model of a continuous covering of the surface by fragmented floating ice. Attenuation of waves through broken ice of random thickness is then analysed in a similar manner as bed variations have been previously. General features of the predicted attenuation are discussed in relation to existing theoretical models for attenuation due to multiple scattering through random ice environments and to field data, particularly in the model's ability to capture a ‘rollover effect’ at higher frequencies.

The study investigates the flow structure, dynamics of the large-scale coherent structures, drag forces and sediment entrainment mechanisms generated by a circular array of diameter D containing rigid emerged circular cylinders of diameter d placed in a smooth-bed channel of depth h under strong shallow flow conditions (D/h = 20, d/D = 0.0125 and 0.025). Eddy resolving simulations are conducted with different values of the solid volume fraction 0.025 ≤ SVF ≤ 0.1 and non-dimensional frontal area per unit volume (2.56 ≤ aD ≤ 10.2, where for the present configuration, a = SVF(1/d)4/${\rm \pi}$) and a fixed channel Reynolds number (Reh = 10 000). The flow conditions are such that a vortex street (VS)-type of shallow wake is expected to form for a solid cylinder of diameter D. Findings are compared with previous results obtained for cases with moderately shallow conditions 2.5 ≤ D/h ≤ 3.5 and with the limiting case of flow past a solid cylinder with D/h = 20. For moderately shallow conditions, the core of the main horseshoe vortex (HV) forming around the array occupies a small fraction of the water column and its coherence is the largest in front of the array. By contrast, for very shallow conditions, multiple HVs form around the array and their cores occupy a large fraction of the water column. Moreover, the coherence of most of these HVs peaks close to the sides of the array. Only for relatively large aD values, the main HV extends over the whole upstream face of the array, similar to the limiting case of a solid cylinder. For sufficiently high aD, a secondary instability is present inside the near wake that leads to the formation of parallel horizontal vortices in the vicinity of the wake roller vortices. The changes in the wake structure with decreasing SVF and aD are qualitatively similar to those observed for cases with moderately shallow flow conditions, with the antisymmetric wake shedding mode being suppressed for aD ≤ 2.5. However, the Strouhal number associated with the shedding of wake rollers, which is still close to 0.2 for a solid cylinder with D/h = 20, can be as high as 0.4 for aD = 2.5. The paper also discusses how the steady wake and total wake lengths and the strength of the bleeding flow vary with the SVF. Simulation results show that the capacity of the flow to entrain sediment inside and around the array peaks for SVF = 0.05 and aD = 5.2, with sediment entrainment monotonically increasing with the SVF outside the array and monotonically decreasing inside the array. Despite the differences in the flow structure next to and inside the array, the variation of the mean, time-averaged streamwise drag coefficient of the solid cylinders ${\bar{C}_d}$ with aD is close to that observed for arrays with moderately shallow flow conditions. The combined drag coefficient for the array decreases with increasing flow shallowness, with the decay being stronger for relatively large values of aD.

Although there is a range of approaches for classifying the wake structure behind an array of obstacles, these approaches provide inconsistent results across different array systems. This motivates the present study to integrate and reconcile these approaches into one that is consistent across different systems. This new, transferable classification approach is based on the dimensionless flow blockage of the array and the wake stability parameter. To demonstrate this approach, a series of laboratory experiments was conducted to characterise the wake structure behind an array of emergent cylinders across a practically relevant parameter space that has not previously been explored. Two arrays with the same values of flow blockage and wake stability parameters but different sizes display the same wake structure, demonstrating the controlling influence of these two parameters on the wake structure. This approach classifies four different wake structures, which are distinct in that they display differences in instantaneous and time-averaged flow fields, temporal velocity oscillations, shear layer growth and the length of the steady wake region. The dependence of the wake structure on the two parameters is a consequence of (i) the controlling influence of blockage on the fraction of incident flow passing through the array and (ii) the ability of shallowness to suppress wake instabilities and, to a lesser extent, also influence the velocity through the array. This paper provides a predictive framework for the wake structure based on knowledge of the array geometry, and the depth and velocity of incident flow across the entire relevant practical parameter space.

Accurate computation of hydroelastic waves in shallow water is critical because many hydroelastic wave applications are nearshores, such as sea-ice and floating infrastructures. In this paper, Boussinesq assumptions for shallow water are employed to derive nonlinear Boussinesq-type equations of hydroelastic waves, in which non-uniform distribution of structural stiffness and varying water depth are considered rigorously. Application of Boussinesq assumptions enables complicated three-dimensional problems to be reduced and formulated on the two-dimensional horizontal plane, therefore the proposed Boussinesq-type models are straightforward and versatile for a wide range of hydroelastic wave applications. Two configurations, a floating plate and a submerged plate, are studied. The first-order linear governing equations are solved analytically with periodic conditions assuming constant depth and uniform stiffness, and the linear dispersion relations are subsequently derived for both configurations. For flexural-gravity waves of a floating plate, unique behaviours of flexural-gravity waves different from shallow-water waves are discussed, and a generalized solitary wave solution is investigated. A nonlinear numerical solver is developed, and nonlinear flexural-gravity waves are found to have smaller wavelength and celerity than their linear counterparts. For hydroelastic waves of a submerged plate, dual-mode analytical solutions are discovered for the first time. Numerical computation has demonstrated that a plate with decreasing submerged depth is able to transfer wave energy from the deeper water to the surface layer.

The dynamics of turbulent flows past lateral cavities is relevant for multiple environmental applications. In rivers and coastal environments, these lateral recirculating regions constitute surface storage zones, where large-scale turbulent coherent structures control the transport and fate of contaminants. Mass transport in these flows is typically represented by one-dimensional first-order equations that predict the evolution of the spatially integrated concentration between the cavity and the main channel. These models, however, cannot represent the long-term evolution of the concentration or incorporate memory effects induced by turbulence. In this investigation, we carry out large-eddy simulations (LES) of the open-channel flow with a lateral square cavity of Mignot et al. (Phys. Fluids, vol. 28, issue 4, 2016, 045104). The model is coupled with an advection–diffusion equation and a Lagrangian particle model to investigate the transport mechanisms in the cavity and across the interface. From the simulations we provide quantitative comparisons of the physical processes from both perspectives, and investigate the effects of turbulent coherent structures on residence times and trajectories from finite-time Lyapunov exponents. From the Lagrangian results, we identify general spatial distributions of time scales in the cavity associated with the dynamics of coherent structures, providing new insights into the mechanisms that drive the global transport. We also show that an upscaled model informed by LES and based on a fractional derivative captures the evolution of concentration, and the exchange between the cavity and the main channel, providing accurate predictions of mass transport and reproducing the temporal dependence observed at larger scales.

A Lagrangian approach to both hydrostatic non-dispersive in the short-wave range and non-hydrostatic dispersive rotating shallow-water magnetohydrodynamics is developed, and used to analyse weakly and fully nonlinear waves described by the model. Hyperbolic structure in the non-dispersive case is displayed and Riemann invariants are constructed. Characteristic equations are used to establish criteria of breaking and formation of shocks by magneto-gravity waves, and conditions of the appearance of contact discontinuities in Alfvén waves. As in the case of non-magnetic rotating shallow water, rotation cannot prevent breaking. The Lagrangian equations of the model are reduced to a single partial differential ‘master’ equation, which is used to analyse the propagation of weakly nonlinear waves of both families, with or without weak rotation, and with or without weak short-wave dispersion. Corresponding modulation equations are constructed and their main properties sketched. The same master equation is used to obtain fully nonlinear finite-amplitude wave solutions in particular cases of no short-wave dispersion or no rotation.

A depth-averaged model for turbulent open-channel flows with breaking roll waves on a sloping smooth bottom is derived under an assumption of independence between the wall turbulence and the roller turbulence. The model includes four variables – the water depth, the average velocity, and two variables called enstrophy, the shear enstrophy and the roller enstrophy – which take into account the deviations of the velocity with respect to its depth-averaged value due to shear effect and roller turbulence, respectively. The four equations of the model are the mass, momentum, energy and shear enstrophy balance equations, with the mathematical structure of the Euler equations of compressible fluids, with an additional transport equation and with source terms. The system is hyperbolic. The roller enstrophy is created by shocks. A non-zero value of the roller enstrophy indicates a breaking wave and a turbulent roller. The model is solved by a fast and well-known numerical scheme, with an explicit finite-volume method in one step. The model is used to simulate periodic and natural roll waves with a good agreement with existing experimental results. There is no parameter to calibrate in the model, which gives it a predictive character.

The objective of this three-part work is to formulate and rigorously analyse a number of reduced mathematical models that are nevertheless capable of describing the hydrology at the scale of a river basin (i.e. catchment). Coupled surface and subsurface flows are considered. In this third part, we focus on the development of analytical solutions and scaling laws for a benchmark catchment model that models the river flow (runoff) generated during a single rainfall. We demonstrate that for catchments characterised by a shallow impenetrable bedrock, the shallow-water approximation allows a reduction of the governing formulation to a coupled system of one-dimensional time-dependent equations for the surface and subsurface flows. Asymptotic analysis is used to derive semi-analytical solutions for the model. We provide simple asymptotic scaling laws describing the peak flow formation, and demonstrate its accuracy through a comparison with the two-dimensional model developed in Part 2. These scaling laws can be used as an analytical benchmark for assessing the validity of other physical, conceptual or statistical models of catchments.

The objective of this three-part work is to formulate and rigorously analyse a number of reduced mathematical models that are nevertheless capable of describing the hydrology at the scale of a river basin (i.e. catchment). Coupled surface and subsurface flows are considered. In this first part, we identify and analyse the key physical parameters that appear in the governing formulations used within hydrodynamic rainfall–runoff models. Such parameters include those related to catchment dimensions, topography, soil and rock properties, rainfall intensities, Manning's coefficients and river channel dimensions. Despite the abundance of research that has produced data sets describing properties of specific river basins, there have been few studies that have investigated the ensemble of typical scaling of key physical properties; these estimates are needed to perform a proper dimensional analysis of rainfall–runoff models. Therefore, in this work, we perform an extensive analysis of the parameters; our results form a benchmark and provide guidance to practitioners on the typical parameter sizes and interdependencies. Crucially, the analysis is presented in a fashion that can be reproduced and extended by other researchers and, wherever possible, uses publicly available data sets for catchments in the UK.

The objective of this three-part work is to formulate and rigorously analyse a number of reduced mathematical models that are nevertheless capable of describing the hydrology at the scale of a river basin (i.e. catchment). Coupled surface and subsurface flows are considered. In this second part, we construct a benchmark catchment scenario and investigate the effects of parameters within their typical ranges. Previous research on coupled surface–subsurface models have focused on numerical simulations of site-specific catchments. Here, our focus is broad, emphasising the study of general solutions to the mathematical models, and their dependencies on dimensionless parameters. This study provides a foundation based on the examination of a geometrically simple three-dimensional benchmark scenario. We develop a non-dimensional coupled surface–subsurface model and extract the key dimensionless parameters. Asymptotic methods demonstrate under what conditions the model can be reduced to a two-dimensional form, where the principal groundwater and overland flows occur in the hillslope direction. Numerical solutions provide guidance on the validity of such reductions, and demonstrate the parametric dependencies corresponding to a strong rainfall event.

The spectral behaviour of random sawtooth waves propagating in the inner surf zone is investigated in this study. We show that the elevation energy spectrum exhibits a universal shape with an $\omega ^{-2}$ tendency in the inertial subrange and an exponential decay in the diffusive subrange ($\omega$ being the angular frequency). A theoretical spectrum is derived based on the similarities between sawtooth waves in the inner surf zone and Burgers wave solutions. Very good agreement is shown between this theoretical spectrum and laboratory experiments covering a large range of incident random wave conditions. Additionally, an equation describing the universal shape of the dissipation spectrum is derived. It highlights that the dissipation spectrum is nearly constant in the inertial subrange, consistent with prior laboratory observations. The findings presented in this study can be useful to improve broken wave dissipation parametrizations in stochastic spectral wave models.

We investigate the shallow flow of viscous fluid into and out of a channel whose gap width increases as a power law ($x^n$), where $x$ is the downstream axis. The fluid flows slowly, while injected at a rate in the form of $t^\alpha$, where $t$ is time and $\alpha$ is a constant. The invading fluid has a higher viscosity than the ambient fluid, thus avoiding Saffman–Taylor instability. Similarity solutions of the first kind for the outflow problem are found using approximations of lubrication theory. Zheng et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 747, 2014, pp. 218–246) studied the deep-channel case and found divergent behaviour of the similarity variable as $n\rightarrow 1$ and $n\rightarrow 3$, when fluid flows into and out of the channel, respectively. No divergence is found in the shallow case presented here up to the breakdown of the geometric assumption. The characteristic equilibration time for the numerically simulated constant-volume flow to converge to the similarity solution is calculated assuming an inverse dependence on the ratio disagreement between the current front using the method of lines. An inverse power dependence between equilibration time and ratio disagreement is found for channels of different powers. A similarity solution of the second kind for the inflow problem is found using the phase-plane formalism and the bisection method. An exponential decay relationship is found between $n$ and the degree $\delta$ of the similarity variable $xt^{-\delta }$, which does not show any divergent behaviour for large $n$. An asymptotic behaviour is found for $\delta$ that approaches $1/2$ for $n\gg 1$.

The present study focuses on two-dimensional direct numerical simulations of shallow-water breaking waves, specifically those generated by a wave plate at constant water depths. The primary objective is to quantitatively analyse the dynamics, kinematics and energy dissipation associated with wave breaking. The numerical results exhibit good agreement with experimental data in terms of free-surface profiles during wave breaking. A parametric study was conducted to examine the influence of various wave properties and initial conditions on breaking characteristics. According to research on the Bond number ($Bo$, the ratio of gravitational to surface tension forces), an increased surface tension leads to the formation of more prominent parasitic capillaries at the forwards face of the wave profile and a thicker plunging jet, which causes a delayed breaking time and is tightly correlated with the main cavity size. A close relationship between wave statistics and the initial conditions of the wave plate is discovered, allowing for the classification of breaker types based on the ratio of wave height to water depth, $H/d$. Moreover, an analysis based on inertial scaling arguments reveals that the energy dissipation rate due to breaking can be linked to the local geometry of the breaking crest $H_b/d$, and exhibits a threshold behaviour, where the energy dissipation approaches zero at a critical value of $H_b/d$. An empirical scaling of the breaking parameter is proposed as $b = a(H_b/d - \chi _0)^n$, where $\chi _0 = 0.65$ represents the breaking threshold and $n = 1.5$ is a power law determined through the best fit to the numerical results.

We consider the dynamics of a set of reduced equations describing the evolution of a magnetised, rotating stably stratified fluid layer, atop a stagnant dense, perfectly conducting layer. We consider two closely related models. In the first, the layer has, above it, relatively light fluid where the magnetic pressure is much larger than the gas pressure, and the magnetic field is largely force-free. In the second model, the magnetic field is constrained to lie within the dynamical layer by the implementation of a model diffusion operator for the magnetic field. The model derivation proceeds by assuming that the horizontal velocity and the horizontal magnetic field are independent of the vertical coordinate, whilst the vertical components in the layer have a linear dependence on height. The full system comprises evolution equations for the magnetic field, horizontal velocity and height field together with a linear elliptic equation for the vertically integrated non-hydrostatic pressure. In the magneto-hydrostatic limit, these equations simplify to equations of shallow-water type. Numerical solutions for both models are provided for the fiducial case of a Gaussian vortex interacting with a magnetic field. The solutions are shown to differ negligibly. We investigate how the interaction of the vortex changes in response to the magnetic Reynolds number ${Rm}$, the Rossby deformation radius $L_D$, and a Coriolis buoyancy frequency ratio $f/N$ measuring the significance of non-hydrostatic effects. The magneto-hydrostatic limit corresponds to $f/N\to 0$.

Submerged vegetation plays a subtle role in exchanging the fluid mass and energy in the vegetated flow zone, where the swaying motions of flexible plants are the important source of turbulent kinetic energy production. Flume experiments were conducted to study the modes, characteristics and factors of swaying of individual submerged flexible plants. A modified plant model in a new form, representing the highly flexible vegetation with clustered leaves, was employed. A ‘rigid-like’ synchronous swaying mode and a ‘whip-like’ asynchronous flapping mode are found to appear alternately for the individual plants. The interaction between these modes depends on the resulting local flow structure affected by the plants. Compared with a plant in isolation with the same flow Reynolds number, the swaying motions of a plant within the vegetation patch are less frequent but more prone to the synchronous mode. The eigen frequency of the motions increases linearly with an increase in flow Reynolds number in the range of 2 × 104–5 × 104, but the normalised amplitude reaches a saturation at a high flow Reynolds number. Moreover, the in-line and spanwise motions have a 2 : 1 frequency ratio for an ‘8’ shaped trajectory on the horizontal plane and a 1 : 1 ratio for a ‘0’ shaped circular trajectory, or a combination of both.

We examine the structure of the continuous circular hydraulic jump and recirculation for a jet impinging on a disk. We use a composite mean-field thin-film approach consisting of subdividing the flow domain into three regions of increasing gravity strength: a developing boundary layer near impact, an intermediate supercritical viscous layer and a region comprising the jump and subcritical flow. Unlike existing models, the approach does not require any empirically or numerically adjusted boundary conditions. We demonstrate that the stress or corner singularity for a film draining at the edge is equivalent to an infinite slope of the film surface, which we impose as the downstream boundary condition. The model is validated against existing experiment and numerical simulation of the boundary-layer and Navier–Stokes equations. We find that the flow in the supercritical region remains insensitive to the change in gravity level but is greatly affected by viscosity. The existence of the jump is not necessarily commensurate with the presence of recirculation, which is strongly dependent on the upstream curvature and steepness of the jump.

This paper discusses how the submergence ratio, defined as the ratio between the flow depth, D, and the height, h, of the solid rigid cylinders forming the array affects flow and turbulence structure inside and around a rectangular array of cylinders placed adjacent to one of the channel sidewalls. As the array becomes submerged, a vertical shear layer develops in between the top face of the array and the free surface, which strongly increases flow three-dimensionality and modifies how the momentum exchange between the array and the surrounding open water regions occurs with respect to the case of an emerged array where only a horizontal shear layer forms as part of the incoming flow approaching the array is deflected laterally. Eddy-resolving simulations are conducted for several values of the solid volume fraction, ϕ, and of the submergence ratio, 1.0 ≤ D/h ≤ 4.0. Similar to the limiting case of an emerged array (D/h = 1.0), the width- and depth-averaged streamwise velocity inside the array reaches a constant value after an initial adjustment region in the submerged-array cases. For D/h ≥ 1.33, the mean normal velocities through the top and side faces of the array do not become equal to zero downstream of the initial adjustment region. The flow inside the array reaches an equilibrium regime where the local flux of fluid leaving the array through its side face is balanced by the local flux of fluid entering the array through its top face. This regime is observed until close to the end of the array. For D/h ≥ 2.0, the horizontal shear layer vortices do not generate successive regions of high and low streamwise velocity and bed friction velocity inside the array, as is observed in the emerged cases. With respect to the emerged case, the size of the shear layer vortices and the shear layer width increase for low submergence ratios before decreasing rapidly for D/h ≥ 1.33. Significant three-dimensional effects are present inside the array and the horizontal shear layer for cases with both emerged and submerged arrays. In the ϕ = 0.08 cases, strong upwelling and downwelling motions are observed inside the array for D/h ≥ 1.33, while the circulation of the streamwise-oriented cell of secondary flow forming close to the lateral face of the array peaks when the submergence ratio is close to 1.33. For constant ϕ, the total streamwise drag force normalized with the height and width of the array increases with increasing submergence ratio. As the array submergence increases, the cylinders near the front of the array contribute less to the total force acting on the cylinders forming the array. For constant D/h, the total streamwise drag force acting on the array increases with ϕ for the submerged and emerged cases.

We extend the Matsuno–Gill model, originally developed on the equatorial $\beta$-plane, to the surface of the sphere. While on the $\beta$-plane the non-dimensional model contains a single parameter, the damping rate $\gamma$, on a sphere the model contains a second parameter, the rotation rate $\epsilon ^{1/2}$ (Lamb number). By considering the different combinations of damping and rotation, we are able to characterize the solutions over the $(\gamma, \epsilon ^{1/2})$ plane. We find that the $\beta$-plane approximation is accurate only for fast rotation rates, where gravity waves traverse a fraction of the sphere's diameter in one rotation period. The particular solutions studied by Matsuno and Gill are accurate only for fast rotation and moderate damping rates, where the relaxation time is comparable to the time on which gravity waves traverse the sphere's diameter. Other regions of the parameter space can be described by different approximations, including radiative relaxation, geostrophic, weak temperature gradient and non-rotating approximations. The effect of the additional parameter introduced by the sphere is to alter the eigenmodes of the free system. Thus, unlike the solutions obtained by Matsuno and Gill, where the long-term response to a symmetric forcing consists solely of Kelvin and Rossby waves, the response on the sphere includes other waves as well, depending on the combination of $\gamma$ and $\epsilon ^{1/2}$. The particular solutions studied by Matsuno and Gill apply to Earth's oceans, while the more general $\beta$-plane solutions are only somewhat relevant to Earth's troposphere. In Earth's stratosphere, Venus and Titan, only the spherical solutions apply.

We study the inverse flux of waves in one of the simplest geophysical fluid dynamics models: one-dimensional rotating shallow water equations. Based on direct numerical integration of the governing equations, we find that waves injected at small scales get transferred upscale predominantly via resonant quartic interactions between wave modes. The waves’ upscale transfer is non-local and involves turbulent transfer between disparate scales of the flow. Our analysis reveals that the upscale transfer of waves is extremely intermittent and is a result of localized-in-time bursts in wave action flux. These intermittent events of flux bursts lead to shallower waves’ spectrum and relatively higher amplitude wave fields in physical space. On examining statistics of the flow fields, we find that low-energy high wavenumbers more or less comply with the assumptions used in wave turbulence theory, such as uniformly distributed wave phases and the Gaussian distribution of fields, while non-uniform distribution of wave phases and non-Gaussian statistics dominate at large scales or low wavenumbers that contain a major share of the flow energy. Our findings point out that the one-dimensional rotating shallow water equations, despite being a simple geophysical fluid dynamic model, harbour complex and intricate features associated with the upscale transfer of waves that have not been recognized in the past.