We consider finite-amplitude thermal convection, in a horizontal fluid layer. The viscosity of the fluid is dependent upon its temperature. Using a weakly nonlinear expansion procedure, we examine the stability of two-dimensional roll and three-dimensional square planforms, in order to determine which should be preferred in convection experiments. The analysis shows that the roll planform is preferred for low values of the ratio of the viscosities at the top and bottom boundaries, but the square planform is preferred for larger values of the ratio. At still larger values, subcritical convection is predicted. We also include the effects of boundaries having finite thermal conductivity, which enables favourable comparison to be made with experimental studies. A discrepancy between the present work and a previous study of this problem (Busse & Frick 1985) is discussed.