12 - Textile Production and Jewish Clothing in the Iberian Peninsula: Characteristics, Customs and Differences between Catalan and Other Jewish Communities

Summary

Introduction

Clothing has always been a mark of identity for Jews, but the uniqueness of medieval peninsular Jewish dress was limited by Gentile laws and decrees against the Jewish community. In general, Jewish daily attire in the Middle Ages did not differ significantly from that of their contemporaries. The idiosyncrasies of each peninsular Jewish community were dictated by the discriminatory sumptuary laws, edicts and laws of Gentiles that restricted the use of certain clothes, as well as the precepts derived from Jewish legislation (Halakha) and community agreements, local customs and traditions.

The sources for the study of Jewish medieval garments are diverse but often scarce. The stipulations and decrees of Christians and Muslims, as well as the ordinances of Jewish communities, are an important source. Notarial records are the most detailed source, especially from the 14^th and 15^th centuries. Loan registries usually refer to items of clothing and a certain number of garments used as a guarantee; however, this documentation is sketchy and not very descriptive. Entries frequently refer only to the most valuable objects, not to items for daily use. The wills that many Jews deposited with Christian notaries included inventories that provide us with an accurate image of the deceased’s textile possessions. In addition to non-Jewish documentation there are Hebrew manuscripts of the time, such as commercial accounts, asset inventories, or debt records. These are not very abundant, but also offer evidence on this subject.