4 - James Hamilton: Earl of Arran, Duke of Châtellerault, and Lord Governor of Scotland

Summary

Like everything else in his life, the Regent's wardrobe choices reflected the realities of constant conflict and the demands on him to negotiate with both England and France in an attempt to keep Scotland independent. Though his regency was relatively brief, James Hamilton seems to have made the most of it when it came to his wardrobe. Compared to the subsequent regency of Marie de Guise, Hamilton's expenditures on clothing for himself and others are rather astonishing in scale. In terms of the quantity of garments, the Regent's wardrobe can only be compared to other heads of state. He received new clothing in 102 of the 108 months for which accounts detailing purchases for him and his immediate family survive. Via the national treasury, he acquired fifteen gowns and night gowns, sixty coats, forty-three cloaks (many of which formed a matching set with a coat), forty-six doublets, forty-eight pairs of thighs of hose, thirty-five pairs of legs of hose, dozens of pairs of shoes, and many other items. He also took charge of the late king's “Palace, treasure, jewels, garments, horse, and plate.” Some of this was dispersed to the king's family (see Appendix 1), but some the Regent kept for his own use [58, below].

Item þe xxx day of nouember for half ane

quarter of blak satyng, half ane quarter

crammesy sating and half ane quarter

quhyte sating to eik þe syde semys of thre

doublattis quhilkis war þe kingis gracis of

before—xx s

Item, the 30th day of November, for ⅛ ell

of black satin, ⅛ ell of crimson satin, and ⅛

ell of white satin, to enlarge the side seams

of the doublets which were previously the

king's grace's, 20s.

Item to þe broudstar for his laubourris

maid vpon þe saiddis doublattis—iij li vj s

Item for sewing gold and syluer for sewing

on of þe pasmentis of certane þe kingis

gracis habulȝeamentis—xxix s [58]

Item, to the embroiderer for his labors

made on the said doublets, £3 6s.

Item, for gold and silver thread, for sewing

on of the passementeries of certain of the

king's grace's garments, 29s.