Cotton is one of the most important crops among natural fibres. Fibre quality determines the spinning ability, which is negatively correlated with yield and yield-contributing traits. Limited efforts have been made to improve fibre quality and yield in diploid cotton. Therefore, screening a large panel of germplasm lines can help identify genotypes with better fibre quality and yield. We evaluated 712 desi cotton genotypes for fibre quality traits. The genotypes showed a significant difference for all the traits, suggesting considerable variability for fibre quality improvement. Fibre length and strength showed high phenotypic and genotypic coefficients of variation. Heritability was high for fibre strength, length, and elongation. Fibre length and strength were positively correlated; however, micronaire was negatively correlated with these two traits. Superior accessions were identified for fibre length (11), strength (20), uniformity (7), and elongation (25) among genotypes. Most of the desi lines (71%) had medium micronaire values. Twenty accessions identified were ideal for spinning, showing the fibre strength-to-length ratio of one. Cluster analysis based on Euclidean distance grouped all 712 accessions into four major clusters. Principal component analysis biplot revealed that accessions AC3418, 360-SP1, AC3522B, Kanpur A, Gao16CB-9, and AC3370 were genetically diverse. The superior accessions for fibre quality identified in this study are potential lines for the diploid cotton improvement programme.

Wool is an important agricultural commodity with merino wool being rated alongside the finest quality fibres, which include the goat fibres Mohair and Cashmere. Although pigmented wool merinos have become extremely rare, the market for this wool is increasing. In Portugal, there are two merino breeds: white and black, descendants of animals originally bred on the Iberian Peninsula. These breeds have the potential to assist in our understanding of how protein expression relates to wool traits of importance to the textile industry. Herein, we study the characteristics and protein expression profiles of wool from ewes of the Portuguese black and white merino (n=15). Both breeds had very similar results for fibre diameter (25 µm) and curvature (105 to 111°/mm). Significant between-breed differences were found in the two types of keratin-associated proteins (KAPs): high-sulphur proteins (HSPs) and high-glycine–tyrosine proteins (HGTPs). The expression of HSPs, KAP2-3 and KAP2-4, decreased expression in the pigmented animals, whereas KAP13-1 was found in higher amounts. Likewise, the expression of the ultra-high-sulphur proteins, KAP4-3 and KAP4-7-like, was reduced in black sheep to half the levels of the white wools, whereas the HGTPs, KAP6, KAP6-1, KAP6-2 and KAP16-2, were more abundant in black sheep. These results suggest structural differences between the black and white merino wool, because of differences among some KAPs. These differences have important implications for the textile industry.

Rapid and efficient methods to evaluate variables associated with fibre quality are essential in animal breeding programs and fibre trade. Near-infrared reflectance spectroscopy (NIRS) combined with multivariate analysis was evaluated to predict textile quality attributes of alpaca fibre. Raw samples of fibres taken from male and female Huacaya alpacas (n = 291) of different ages and colours were scanned and their visible–near-infrared (NIR; 400 to 2500 nm) reflectance spectra were collected and analysed. Reference analysis of the samples included mean fibre diameter (MFD), standard deviation of fibre diameter (SDFD), coefficient of variation of fibre diameter (CVFD), mean fibre curvature (MFC), standard deviation of fibre curvature (SDFC), comfort factor (CF), spinning fineness (SF) and staple length (SL). Patterns of spectral variation (loadings) were explored by principal component analysis (PCA), where the first four PC's explained 99.97% and the first PC alone 95.58% of spectral variability. Calibration models were developed by modified partial least squares regression, testing different mathematical treatments (derivative order, subtraction gap, smoothing segment) of the spectra, with or without applying spectral correction algorithms (standard normal variate and detrend). Equations were selected through one-out cross-validation according to the proportion of explained variance (R2CV), root mean square error in cross-validation (RMSECV) and the residual predictive deviation (RPD), which relates the standard deviation of the reference data to RMSECV. The best calibration models were accomplished when using the NIR region (1100 to 2500 nm) for the prediction of MFD and SF, with R2CV = 0.90 and 0.87; RMSECV = 1.01 and 1.08 μm and RPD = 3.13 and 2.73, respectively. Models for SDFD, CVFD, MFC, SDFC, CF and SL had lower predictive quality with R2CV < 0.65 and RPD < 1.5. External validation performed for MFD and SF on 91 samples was slightly poorer than cross-validation, with R2 of 0.86 and 0.82, and standard error of prediction of 1.21 and 1.33 μm, for MFD and SF, respectively. It is concluded that NIRS can be used as an effective technique to select alpacas according to some important textile quality traits such as MFD and SF.

In a search for high-quality jute (Corchorus olitorius) fibre using phenotypic marker(s), a single plant from CRIJAF accession OIJ 154 was isolated on the basis of its unique red-tinted pale green stem, which becomes crimson red at maturity, and was given a code name, PPO4. Progenies from this selection bred true with respect to morphological characters. It has a slightly lower height at maturity, but has comparable yield and a higher harvest index when compared to the most popular high-yielding variety JRO 524. In spite of having lower chlorophyll per unit weight of leaf tissue, the photosynthetic rate per unit chlorophyll, the relative growth rate of PPO4 was higher than JRO 524. A composite analysis of quality parameters indicated that the genotype is of higher grade (between TD2 and TD3) with very fine (1.5 tex) fibre of high tensile strength (19.7 g/tex). The lignin content (ca 14%) of the fibre was also less than that of JRO524 (ca 17%) under standard assay conditions. This plant type, with distinct morphological markers, could be utilized in breeding programmes for the genetic improvement of jute.

The pattern of follicle activity and fibre growth on the neck, mid side and rear leg of 12 Scottish Cashmere (SC) and nine Siberian (S) goat kids was examined from birth to 255 days of age. In both genotypes maximum secondary to primary follicle (S/P) ratio was reached earliest on the neck (P < 0·05) but was proportionately 0·21 and 0·28 (P < 0·001) lower than that on the rear leg and mid side respectively. Secondary follicle activity ceased earlier on the rear leg than the mid side or neck (P < 0·001) and this was associated with lower staple lengths and patch weights of undercoat. Fibre weight and diameter were compared on six body parts: neck, front leg, mid side, rear leg, rump and belly at 255 days of age. Patch undercoat weights and diameter were greatest on the neck, front leg and rump and lowest on the belly.

The estimated annual production of undercoat, calculated from patch weights and skin area measurements on the six parts of the body at 255 days of age was 138 (range 42 to 260) g for SC kids and 525 (range 377 to 661) g for S kids (s.e.d. = 39·4, P < 0·001). Mean undercoat diameter was 16·15 (range 15·32 to 17·51) and 18·94 (range 17·25 to 19·89) μm for SC and S kids respectively (s.e.d. = 0·376, P < 0·001).

Correlation coefficients between fibre traits, measured at approximately monthly intervals and estimates of annual production and undercoat diameter at 255 days were calculated. For SC kids mid-side patch undercoat weight was consistently and strongly related to estimated annual production (mean correlation coefficient, 0·85, s.e. 0·036). For S kids the only variable to show a consistently strong relationship with estimated annual production was mid-side undercoat staple length × diameter2 (mean correlation coefficient 0·66, s.e. 0·067). Thus the best fibre traits for ranking annual production differed between genotypes. In both cases the accuracy of the ranking increased with age. Undercoat fibre diameter measured from 4 to 5 months of age was closely related to estimated undercoat diameter at 255 days of age in both SC and S genotypes (mean correlation coefficient 0·92, s.e. 0·009). Prior to 4 months of age the mean correlation coefficient for SC and S genotypes was 0·53 (s.e. 0·20).

It is concluded that goat kids can be ranked for annual production and diameter of the undercoat, prior to first harvesting, based on fibre traits measured on samples of the fleece.

Twelve adult male alpacas were given either 0·67 (low) or 2·0 (high) × assumed maintenance requirements for a period of 6 weeks after which time each was transferred to the alternative level of nutrition for a further 6 weeks. Fibre samples were taken from two 10-cm2 areas on the mid-side position of each animal at 2, 6, 8 and 12 weeks, and measurements of fibre weight, yield (clean fibre weight/raw fibre weight), fibre diameter and fibre length made on the samples collected at weeks 6 and 12. The higher level of feeding resulted in higher clean fibre weight (low = 0·42 (s.e. 0·03); high = 0·53 (s.e. 0·04)mg/cm2 per day, P < 0·001) and fibre growth rate (low = 186 (s.e. 10); high = 223 (s.e. 14) yon/day, P < 0·05). Changes in yield (low = 0·917 (s.e. 0·006); high = 0·929 (s.e. 0·009)) and mean fibre diameter (low = 31·4 (s.e. 1·9); high = 32·1 (s.e. 1.6) \xm) were not statistically significant. Calculations showed that the increased weight of fibre attributed to the higher level of nutrition could be explained in terms of the observed increases in fibre-length and diameter but that, unlike the sheep in which the ratio fibre length: diameter remains relatively constant under varying nutritional regimes, the effect of nutrition in the alpaca has a proportionally larger effect on fibre length than on fibre diameter.

Genetic parameters were calculated for fibre traits measured on patch samples taken at 5 months of age on a crossbred population of cashmere goats, comprising goats of Scottish feral, Icelandic, Tasmanian, New Zealand and Siberian origin. Within-strain heritabilities, fitting genetic origin as a covariable, were: live weight, 0·71 (s.e. 0·08), fibre diameter, 0·63 (0·07), diameter standard deviation 0·43 (0·08), logipatch cashmere weight), 0·60 (0·06), log(estimated annual cashmere production), 0·51 (0·07), and fibre length, 0·49 (0·15). Including between strain information increased these values to 0·74, 0·68, 0·45, 0·73, 0·67 and 0·57, respectively. Maternal effects for all fibre traits were negligible. Expressions were derived to relate cashmere weight to fibre diameter and length, using functional relationships between these traits. Logarithmic regressions showed cashmere weight to be proportional to diameter2'7, indicating that selection to reducefibre diameter will have a disproportionate effect on cashmere weight. Analyses of subsets of the data confirmed this and showed that correlated responses to selection can be accurately predicted by considering thefunctionally relatedfibre traits on the log scale.

Cashmere production was evaluated on Scottish feral (F) goats, on goats imported from Iceland (I), Tasmania (T), New Zealand (N) and Siberia (S), and on two- and three-way crosses between feral and imported lines. Evaluations were based on the weight of cashmere in 10 cm2 mid-side patch samples taken at 5 months of age, with annual cashmere production being predicted from sample cashmere and body weights. Data were collected on 121 purebred and 706 crossbred kids of both sexes. Mean fibre diameter for the F, I, T, N and S lines was 13-75 (s.e. = 0.82), 14·04 (s.e. 0·41), 16·13 (s.e. 0·35), 16·63 (s.e. 0·49) and 17·97 (s.e. 0·50) μm, mean estimated annual cashmere production was 37·3 (s.e. 71·3), 914 (s.e. 31·7), 227·1 (s.e. 28·1), 275·1 (s.e. 42·5) and 579·8 (s.e. 44·7) g, and mean live weight was 15·71 (s.e. 2·16), 17·65 (s.e. 0·93), 16·39 (s.e. 0·83), 16·53 (s.e. 1·28) and 21·9 (s.e. 1·28) kg, respectively. Significant positive heterosis existed between some lines for body weight and cashmere production, with the I line goats consistently showing the largest effects. Combining fibre diameter and cashmere production by their relative economic importance into an index designed to indicate the total value of the fibre produced by each genotype, the cashmere production index, reduced the large production differences between the lines, although the S line was still superior to all other lines. When the cashmere production index was adjusted to account for the economic importance of fibre colour, however, the T and N lines, the only lines which produced white fibre, were comparable to the S line. The cashmere production index for the S line was very sensitive to changes in the relative economic weight for fibre diameter, and if the price differential for high quality (i.e. fine) fibre was increased by a factor of 1·36, or greater, then the T and N lines were superior to the S line. Three-way cross means were estimated from line means and heterosis effects. No cross was consistently superior to all other genotypes, but several of the crosses showed the advantages of potentially producing white fibre as well as having high cashmere production indexes, with their indexes being insensitive to changes in the relative economic weights. Future selection for cashmere production in this population should concentrate on individuals of outstanding genetic merit, regardless of their line or cross.