Reflecting on my own experiences conducting ethnographic fieldwork within the international backpacking community and the metaphorical (as well as physical) journey this entailed, this article provides an account of the fieldwork process as it is lived and focuses on the interplay between the academic as observer and the academic as observed. In particular, drawing on key excerpts from the author's fieldnotes, the article opens up the fieldwork process to closer scrutiny, examining the emotional, corporeal and social dimensions of research. In so doing, the article explores some of the tensions that can emerge for the tourism studies scholar, who as researcher, traveller and tourist may frequently occupy multiple roles and identities within an individual research project. However, rather than viewing these convergences as an obstacle or limitation, I suggest that when viewed through the methodological approach of autoethnography, they are in fact conducive to developing a more reflexive and critically orientated approach to tourism studies.

This article applies a critical, deconstructive lens to examine the assumptions underpinning research in Indigenous tourism. The authors propose a conceptual typology to explore the presence, role and voice of Indigenous people within this body of research. The typology consists of four main positions, namely: invisible, identified, stakeholder, and Indigenous-driven. Examples of Indigenous tourism literature are then used to illustrate this paper's main argument, which is that although Indigenous tourism has been a topic of academic interest for over three decades, it is still predominantly driven by the needs and priorities of non-Indigenous people. Ultimately, it appears that Indigenous voice and presence as scholars and researchers within the Indigenous tourism literature remain elusive.