The Hasselmann equation for the nonlinear interactions of deep-water gravity waves differs from other four-wave kinetic equations by the interaction coefficient. The explicit formula for this coefficient (e.g. Krasitskii, J. Fluid. Mech., vol. 272, 1994, pp. 1–20; Zakharov, Eur. J. Mech. B/Fluids, vol. 18. issue 3, 1999, pp. 327–344) is of great complexity and leaves its properties obscured. We provide analytical results for the behaviour of the coefficient in different domains. The Phillips curve and discrete interaction approximation-like quadruplets are studied in detail. The coupling coefficient for the long–short wave interactions is calculated and found to be surprisingly small. This smallness greatly reduces the non-locality of the interactions.

This study investigates the hydrodynamic interaction between a fully submerged buoyant pendulum and surface gravity waves, focusing on its primary and subharmonic resonance behaviour. The oscillatory motion of the pendulum is driven by fluid drag, with primary resonance occurring at the forcing frequency (viz. the wave frequency) and subharmonic resonance manifesting at half the forcing frequency. Both resonances exhibit nonlinear characteristics, including jump-up, jump-down phenomena and hysteresis. Furthermore, particle image velocimetry results reveal that the velocity fields of the surrounding fluid oscillate at the forcing frequency, confirming that subharmonic resonance is not induced by subharmonic excitation within the velocity field. Experimental observations are validated through both analytical and numerical methods, particularly within the primary and subharmonic resonance frequency ranges. The theoretical model describes the transverse motion of the pendulum using a nonlinear ordinary differential equation, with the method of multiple scales employed for the analytical solution. These analyses reveal the nonlinear characteristics of the system, e.g. bistable response of the primary/subharmonic resonances, and identify three distinct response regions based on the forcing frequency and amplitude. The system exhibits primary resonance regardless of the excitation strength; however, an unstable solution arises if the excitation level surpasses a specific threshold value. In contrast, subharmonic resonance is triggered only when the excitation amplitude exceeds a critical value. Furthermore, the experimental hysteresis curve confirms the theoretically predicted primary and subharmonic resonances, along with the jump-up and jump-down characteristics.

The interaction between porous structures and flows with mean and oscillatory components has many applications in fluid dynamics. One such application is the hydrodynamic forces on offshore jacket structures from waves and current, which have been shown to give a significant blockage effect, leading to a reduction in drag forces. To better understand this, we derived analytical expressions that describe the effect of current on drag forces from large waves, and conducted experiments that measured forces on a model jacket in collinear waves and currents. We utilised symmetry and phase-inversion techniques, relying on the underlying physics of wave structure interaction, to separate Morison drag and inertia-type forces and to decompose these forces into their respective frequency harmonics. We find that the odd harmonics of the drag force mostly contain the loads from waves, while even harmonics vary much more rapidly with the current speed flowing through the jacket. At the time of peak force, these current speeds were estimated to be 40 % of the undisturbed current and 50 % of the industry-standard estimates, a result that has significant implications for design and re-assessment of jackets. At times away from the peak force, when there are no waves and only current, the blockage effects are reduced. Hence, the variation in blocked current speeds appears to occur on a relatively fast time scale similar to the compact wave envelope. These findings may be generalisable to any jacket-type structure in flows with mean and high Keulegan–Carpenter number oscillatory components.

It is generally accepted that the evolution of the deep-water surface gravity wave spectrum is governed by quartet resonant and quasi-resonant interactions. However, it has also been reported in both experimental and computational studies that non-resonant triad interactions can play a role, e.g. generation of bound waves. In this study, we investigate the effects of triad and quartet interactions on the spectral evolution, by numerically tracking the contributions from quadratic and cubic terms in the dynamical equation. In a finite time interval, we find that the contribution from triad interactions follows the trend of that from quartet resonances (with comparable magnitude) for most wavenumbers, except that it peaks at low wavenumbers with very low initial energy. This result reveals two effects of triad interactions. (1) The non-resonant triad interactions can be connected to form quartet resonant interactions (hence exhibiting the comparable trend), which is a reflection of the normal form transformation applied in wave turbulence theory of surface gravity waves. (2) The triad interactions can fill energy into the low-energy portion of the spectrum (low wavenumber part in this case) on a very fast time scale, with energy distributed in both bound and free modes at the same wavenumber. We further analyse the latter mechanism using a simple model with two initially active modes in the wavenumber domain. Analytical formulae describing the distribution of energy in free and bound modes are provided, along with numerical validations.

Surface gravity waves induce a drift on objects floating on the water’s surface. This study presents laboratory experiments investigating the drift of large two-dimensional floating objects on deep-water, unidirectional, regular waves, with wave steepness ranging from 0.04 to 0.31 (0.04 $\lt k{a_w}\lt$ 0.31, where $k$ is the wavenumber and $a_w$ the wave amplitude). The objects were carefully designed to have a rectangular cross-section with a constant aspect ratio; their size varied from 2.6 $\%$ to 27 $\%$ of the incident wavelength. We observed Lagrangian behaviour for small objects. Small and large objects exhibited fundamentally different drift behaviour at high compared with low wave steepness, with a regime shift observed at a certain size and wave steepness. The scaling of object drift with steepness depends on the relative size of the object. For small objects, drift scales with steepness squared, whereas drift becomes a linear function of steepness as the object size increases. For objects that are relatively large but smaller than 13–16% of a wavelength (low to high steepness), we provide experimental evidence supporting the mechanisms of drift enhancement recently identified by Xiao et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 980, 2024, p. A27) and termed the ‘diffraction-modified Stokes drift’. This enhanced drift behaviour, compared with the theoretical Stokes drift for infinitely small fluid parcels, is attributed to changes in the objects’ oscillatory motion and local wave amplitude distribution (standing wave pattern) due to the presence of the object. In the case of larger objects, similar to Harms (J. Waterw. Port Coast. Ocean Eng., vol. 113(6), 1987, pp. 606–622), we relate the critical size at which drift is maximised to their vertical bobbing motion. We determine the domain of validity for both Stokes drift and the diffraction-modified Stokes drift model of Xiao et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 980, 2024, A27) in terms of relative size and wave steepness and propose an empirical parametrisation based on our experimental data.

The description of the generation mechanism of impulse surface waves remains an important challenge in environmental fluid mechanics, owing to the need for a better understanding of large-scale phenomena such as landslide-generated tsunamis. In the present study, we investigated the generation phase of laboratory-scale water waves induced by the impulsive motion of a rigid piston, whose maximum velocity $U$ and total stroke $L$ are independently varied, as well as the initial liquid depth $h$. By doing so, the influence of two dimensionless numbers is studied: the Froude number $\mathrm {Fr}_p$ = $U/(gh)^{1/2}$, with $g$ the gravitational acceleration, and the relative stroke $\Lambda _p =L/h$ of the piston. During the constant acceleration phase of the vertical wall, a transient water bump forms and remains localised in the vicinity of the piston, for all investigated parameters. Experiments with a small relative acceleration $\gamma /g$, where $\gamma =U^2/L$, are well captured by a first-order potential flow theory established by Joo et al. (1990), which provides a fair estimate of the overall free surface elevation and the maximum wave amplitude reached at the contact with the piston. For large Froude numbers, however, wave breaking hinders the use of such an approach. In this case, an unsteady hydraulic jump theory is proposed, which accurately predicts the time evolution of the wave amplitude at the contact with the piston throughout the generation phase. At the end of the formation process, the dimensionless volume of the bump evolves linearly with $\Lambda _p$ and the wave aspect ratio is found to be governed, at first-order, by the relative acceleration $\gamma /g$. As the piston begins its constant deceleration, the water bump evolves into a propagating wave and several regimes such as dispersive, solitary-like and bore waves, as well as water jets are then reported and mapped in a phase diagram in the ($\mathrm {Fr}_p$, $\Lambda _p$) plane. While the transition from waves to water jets is observed if the typical acceleration of the piston is close enough to the gravitational acceleration $g$, the wave regimes are found to be mainly selected by the relative piston stroke $\Lambda _p$. On the other hand, the Froude number determines whether the generated wave breaks or not.

Steady-state Bloch wave systems at resonance with fixed frequencies and amplitudes are investigated using the homotopy analysis method. Nonlinear waves propagate over a stationary undulating bottom topography of infinite extent, modelled as a superposition of two waveforms. The wave systems are classified as type 1 if the primary transmitted and resonant wave components have equal energies, and type 2 if the energy distribution is unequal. Two subtypes of type 2 are identified, distinguished by their responses to frequency detuning and bottom topography: the wave steepness in subtype 1 shows monotonic variations with detuning, while in subtype 2 it exhibits a peak at a particular detuning value, indicating downward resonance that intensifies with greater wave steepness. A pair of peaks in wave steepness arises in each subtype at certain values of the angle $\theta$ between the waveforms of the bottom topography. In both subtypes, the peaks are slightly affected by the ratio $k_{{b}1}/k_{{b}2}$ of the two bottom wave vectors, and significantly affected by the propagation angle $\alpha$ of the primary transmitted wave, but remain stable under changes to other topographic parameters. As the topography amplitude and $\theta$ vary, significant additional contributions to the total energy of the wave system appear from components other than resonant and primary transmitted waves. The most pronounced effects occur with changes in $\theta$, with the additional components accounting for up to 12 % of the total energy. This study provides an enriched understanding of resonant Bloch wave systems and a basis for improving the effectiveness of wave energy converters.

Rogue waves (RWs) can form on the ocean surface due to the well-known quasi-four-wave resonant interaction or superposition principle. The first is known as the nonlinear focusing mechanism and leads to an increased probability of RWs when unidirectionality and narrowband energy of the wave field are satisfied. This work delves into the dynamics of extreme wave focusing in crossing seas, revealing a distinct type of nonlinear RWs, characterised by a decisive longevity compared with those generated by the dispersive focusing (superposition) mechanism. In fact, through fully nonlinear hydrodynamic numerical simulations, we show that the interactions between two crossing unidirectional wave beams can trigger fully localised and robust development of RWs. These coherent structures, characterised by a typical spectral broadening then spreading in the form of dual bimodality and recurrent wave group focusing, not only defy the weakening expectation of quasi-four-wave resonant interaction in directionally spreading wave fields, but also differ from classical focusing mechanisms already mentioned. This has been determined following a rigorous lifespan-based statistical analysis of extreme wave events in our fully nonlinear simulations. Utilising the coupled nonlinear Schrödinger framework, we also show that such intrinsic focusing dynamics can be captured by weakly nonlinear wave evolution equations. This opens new research avenues for further explorations of these complex and intriguing wave phenomena in hydrodynamics as well as other nonlinear and dispersive multi-wave systems.

As new concepts to protect marine structures from ocean waves, we propose the use of a floating elastic annulus. In this paper, two types of annuli are demonstrated. The first is a ‘wave shield’, which creates a calm free surface within an inner domain of the annulus by preventing wave penetration. The second is a ‘cloak’, which not only creates a calm space within the inner domain but also prevents wave scattering outside the annulus. To evaluate the calmness of the inner domain of the annulus, an inlet wave energy factor is newly defined. The wave shield is designed to minimise the inlet wave energy factor to nearly zero. However, the cloak is designed to minimise both the inlet wave energy factor and scattered-wave energy which evaluates the amount of wave scattering at far-field. Each annulus consists of several horizontal concentric annular plates, and the flexural rigidities of the plates are optimised to minimise objective functions at a target frequency. Numerical simulations demonstrate that both the wave shield and the cloak can create calm free surfaces within their inner domains. In addition, the cloak effectively suppresses the outgoing scattering waves and reduces the resultant wave drift force.

Real-time wave forecasting (RTWF) consists in predicting ocean wave motion or forces, from seconds to minutes in advance, using real-time measurements. For the successful development of RTWF, understanding wave predictability is essential. Usually, a deterministic ‘predictable zone’ (DPZ) is geometrically constructed from the wave group velocities and directions present in the spectrum. DPZs have little experimental evidence, and suffer ambiguities regarding the choice of cutoff frequencies and directions – since actual ocean waves are not band-limited. The present study addresses those shortcomings, by defining probabilistic predictable zones (PPZs) with respect to chosen uncertainty thresholds, using a rigorous statistical framework restricted to near-Gaussian sea states (precisely those where RTWF would be employed). PPZs are examined in idealised spectra and in a stereo dataset of a real wave field. It is shown that the PPZ geometry is quantitatively related to the sea state characteristics, through three physical parameters: two limiting group velocities (similar to the deterministic theory), and a directional spreading effect, which also limits the PPZ extent. While the lower group velocity depends on the chosen uncertainty threshold, the upper group velocity is better approximated by that of the spectrum peak frequency, which is a novel finding. The empirical data support the validity of the present PPZ theory. In contrast, both theoretical and empirical results contradict the fan-shaped predictable zones, constructed in the three-dimensional deterministic theory, thus highlighting the importance of considering stochasticity to understand the predictability of actual ocean waves.

We report laboratory experiments of long-crested irregular water surface waves propagating over a shoal, with attention to the region over the down-slope behind the shoal. We measure the surface elevation field, the horizontal velocity field in the water, and the resulting forces on a horizontal submerged cylinder placed over the down-slope of the shoal. In addition, we calculate the horizontal acceleration field. From this, we find that the presence of the shoal can modify the wave field such that the resulting forces on the submerged cylinder can be enhanced with thicker extreme tails and increased values of skewness and kurtosis depending on the location of the cylinder. The spatial dependence of the statistics of forces is different from the spatial dependence of the statistics of horizontal velocity, horizontal acceleration and surface elevation.

The present work proposes a general analysis of those models for gravity wave propagation that partially or totally rely on an average procedure over the water depth. The aim is the identification of the intrinsic physical quantities that characterize the wave dynamics, going beyond the usual definition of depth-averaged velocity. In particular, the proposed approach is based on the decomposition of the depth-averaged fields in their gradient- and divergence-free components. This naturally leads to the definition of a generalized velocity field that includes part of the dispersive contributions of the wave dynamics, and to the detection of the intrinsic boundary conditions along the free surface and the seabed. The analysis also proves the existence of generalized velocity potentials that under particular circumstances can include rotational contributions.

We present a novel technique to render objects invisible to incident waves in a water waveguide system with parallel walls at low frequencies. The invisibility of a waveguide defect, specifically a vertical surface-piercing circular cylinder, is achieved through local deformations of the waveguide walls in the immediate vicinity of the defect. Our method results in a reflection coefficient that is at least 20 times lower than in the case of a parallel waveguide. The effect is observed over a broad frequency range. Experimental results confirm the high efficiency of our approach, showing that backscattered energy is reduced by a factor of 100–5000 compared with the reference case within the considered frequency range.

Ocean turbulence at meso- and submesocales affects the propagation of surface waves through refraction and scattering, inducing spatial modulations in significant wave height (SWH). We develop a theoretical framework that relates these modulations to the current that induces them. We exploit the asymptotic smallness of the ratio of typical current speed to wave group speed to derive a linear map – the U2H map – between surface current velocity and SWH anomaly. The U2H map is a convolution, non-local in space, expressible as a product in Fourier space by a factor independent of the magnitude of the wavenumber vector. Analytic expressions of the U2H map show how the SWH responds differently to the vortical and divergent parts of the current, and how the anisotropy of the wave spectrum is key to large current-induced SWH anomalies. We implement the U2H map numerically and test its predictions against WAVEWATCH III numerical simulations for both idealised and realistic current configurations.

We introduce a new model equation for Stokes gravity waves based on conformal transformations of Euler's equations. The local version of the model equation is relevant for the dynamics of shallow water waves. It allows us to characterize the travelling periodic waves both in the case of smooth and peaked waves and to solve the existence problem exactly, albeit not in elementary functions. Spectral stability of smooth waves with respect to co-periodic perturbations is proven analytically based on the exact count of eigenvalues in a constrained spectral problem.

We develop a time-dependent conformal method to study the effect of viscosity on steep surface waves. When the effect of surface tension is included, numerical solutions are found that contain highly oscillatory parasitic capillary ripples. These small-amplitude ripples are associated with the high curvature at the crest of the underlying viscous-gravity wave, and display asymmetry about the wave crest. Previous inviscid studies of steep surface waves have calculated intricate bifurcation structures that appear for small surface tension. We show numerically that viscosity suppresses these. While the discrete solution branches still appear, they collapse to form a single smooth branch in the limit of small surface tension. These solutions are shown to be temporally stable, both to small superharmonic perturbations in a linear stability analysis, and to some larger amplitude perturbations in different initial-value problems. Our work provides a convenient method for the numerical computation and analysis of water waves with viscosity, without evaluating the free-boundary problem for the full Navier–Stokes equations, which becomes increasingly challenging at larger Reynolds numbers.

Gravito–capillary waves at free surfaces are ubiquitous in several natural and industrial processes involving quiescent liquid pools bounded by cylindrical walls. These waves emanate from the relaxation of initial interface distortions, which often take the form of a cavity (depression) centred on the symmetry axis of the container. The surface waves reflect from the container walls leading to a radially inward propagating wavetrain converging (focussing) onto the symmetry axis. Under the inviscid approximation and for sufficiently shallow cavities, the relaxation is well-described by the linearised potential-flow equations. Naturally, adding viscosity to such a system introduces viscous dissipation that enervates energy and dampens the oscillations at the symmetry axis. However, for viscous liquids and deeper cavities, these equations are qualitatively inaccurate. In this study, we decompose the initial localised interface distortion into several Bessel functions and study their time evolution governing the propagation of concentric gravito–capillary waves on a free surface. This is carried out for inviscid as well as viscous liquids. For a sufficiently deep cavity, the inward focussing of waves results in large interfacial oscillations at the axis, necessitating a second-order nonlinear theory. We demonstrate that this theory effectively models the interfacial behaviour and highlights the crucial role of nonlinearity near the symmetry axis. This is rationalised via demonstration of the contribution of bound wave components to the interface displacement at the symmetry axis Contrary to expectations, the addition of slight viscosity further intensifies the oscillations at the symmetry axis although the mechanism of wavetrain generation here is quite different compared with bubble bursting where such behaviour is well known (Duchemin et al., Phys. Fluids, vol. 14, issue 9, 2002, pp. 3000–3008). This finding underscores the limitations of the potential flow model and suggests avenues for more accurate modelling of such complex free-surface flows.

Nonlinear hydroelastic waves along a compressed ice sheet lying on top of a two-dimensional fluid of infinite depth are investigated. Based on a Hamiltonian formulation of this problem and by applying techniques from Hamiltonian perturbation theory, a Hamiltonian Dysthe equation is derived for the slowly varying envelope of modulated wavetrains. This derivation is further complicated here by the presence of cubic resonances for which a detailed analysis is given. A Birkhoff normal form transformation is introduced to eliminate non-resonant triads while accommodating resonant ones. It also provides a non-perturbative scheme to reconstruct the ice-sheet deformation from the wave envelope. Linear predictions on the modulational instability of Stokes waves in sea ice are established, and implications for the existence of solitary wave packets are discussed for a range of values of ice compression relative to ice bending. This Dysthe equation is solved numerically to test these predictions. Its numerical solutions are compared with direct simulations of the full Euler system, and very good agreement is observed.

Floating fluid-filled membrane breakwater (FFMB) is a temporary structure that can attenuate waves in the deep sea. In this paper the hydrodynamic performance of the FFMB is analysed by using the eigenfunction expansion boundary element method (EEBEM) and physical model experiments. A general motion equation is derived that considers both the dynamic tension and curvature of the membrane. Moreover, an integral expression for the dynamic tension is provided. On this basis, a linear model for solving wave–membrane interaction is established through the EEBEM. Newly designed physical experiments are performed to verify the model and elucidate the nonlinear characteristics of the FFMB. Following verification of the model, this paper investigates the effects of various structural parameters of the FFMB on the wave transmission coefficient, reflection coefficient, horizontal wave force, vertical wave force and dynamic tension. Furthermore, the interrelationship between the structural resonant response and the hydrodynamic performance is elucidated, and the optimal density and filling ratio of the FFMB for engineering applications are proposed. The results demonstrate that the numerical and experimental results are in good agreement, indicating that the model and the motion equation are both practical and highly accurate. By optimizing the structural parameters, the FFMB is capable of effectively attenuating waves within a specific frequency band, while minimizing the wave force.

Metastructures composed of a closely spaced plate array have been widely used in bespoke manipulation of waves in contexts of acoustics, electromagnetics, elasticity and water waves. This paper focuses on wave scattering by discrete plate array metastructures of arbitrary cross-sections, including isolated vertical metacylinders, periodic arrays and horizontal surface-piercing metacylinders. A suitable transform-based method has been applied to each problem to reduce the influence of barriers in a two-dimensional problem to a set of points in a one-dimensional wave equation wherein the solution is constructed using a corresponding Green's function. A key difference from the existing work is the use of an exact description of the plate array rather than an effective medium approximation, enabling the exploration of wave frequencies above resonance where homogenisation models fail but where the most intriguing physical findings are unravelled. The new findings are particularly notable for graded plate array metastructures that produce a dense spectrum of resonant frequencies, leading to broadband ‘rainbow reflection’ effects. This study provides new ideas for the design of structures for the bespoke control of waves with the potential for innovative solutions to coastal protection schemes or wave energy converters.