Hostname: page-component-cd9895bd7-dzt6s Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-12-26T10:07:54.817Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Naturally Dyed Wool and Silk and Their Atomic C:N Ratio for Quality Control of 14C Sample Treatment

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  12 January 2016

Mathieu Boudin*
Affiliation:
Royal Institute for Cultural Heritage, Brussels, Belgium
Marco Bonafini
Affiliation:
Royal Institute for Cultural Heritage, Brussels, Belgium
Ina Vanden Berghe
Affiliation:
Royal Institute for Cultural Heritage, Brussels, Belgium
Marie-Christine Maquoi
Affiliation:
Royal Institute for Cultural Heritage, Brussels, Belgium
*
*Corresponding author. Email: [email protected].

Abstract

Quality control of sample material (e.g. charcoal, collagen) is receiving considerable attention in the effort to obtain more reliable 14C dates. The atomic carbon to nitrogen (C:N) ratio is a useful indicator of contamination and/or degradation of bone collagen. Wool and silk are also composed of proteinaceous material such as bone collagen, and the C:N ratio may also be a useful quality indicator for archaeological wool and silk. Analyses of modern undyed, mordanted, non-mordanted, and naturally dyed silk and wool were done in order to determine a C:N range that indicates the sample quality. The C:N range can be different for every material as the amino acid composition of wool, silk, and bone collagen are distinct. The measured minimum and maximum C:N values were used to set up a C:N range of uncontamined and undegraded wool and silk. Then, the C:N ratio and 14C were analyzed of archaeological wool and silk samples. The applicability of the C:N ratio as a quality indicator for archaeological silk and wool was shown by the good agreement of the 14C dates with the presumed historical dates for the uncontaminated samples and the disagreement of the 14C dates with the presumed historical dates for contaminated samples.

Type
Research Article
Copyright
© 2016 by the Arizona Board of Regents on behalf of the University of Arizona 

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

REFERENCES

Alon, D, Mintz, G, Cohen, I, Weiner, S, Boaretto, E. 2002. The use of Raman spectroscopy to monitor the removal of humic substances from charcoal: quality control for 14C dating of charcoal. Radiocarbon 44(1):111.Google Scholar
Ambrose, SH. 1990. Preparation and characterization of bone and tooth collagen for isotopic analysis. Journal of Archaeological Science 17(4):431451.Google Scholar
Aspland, JR. 1997. Textile Dyeing and Coloration. Durham: American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists. p 244245.Google Scholar
Bechtold, T, Mussak, R. 2009. Handbook of Natural Colorants. Chichester: Wiley & Sons.Google Scholar
Becker, MA, Magoshi, Y, Sakai, T, Tuross, NC. 1997. Chemical and physical properties of old silk fabrics+biochemical analysis of 17 Japanese silk kimono lining fabrics. Studies in Conservation 42(1):2737.Google Scholar
Boudin, M, Boeckx, P, Vandenabeele, P, Mitschke, S, Van Strydonck, M. 2011. Monitoring the presence of humic substances in wool and silk by the use of nondestructive fluorescence spectroscopy: quality control for 14C dating of wool and silk. Radiocarbon 53(3):429442.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Boudin, M, Boeckx, P, Vandenabeele, P, Van Strydonck, M. 2013. Improved radiocarbon dating for contaminated archaeological bone collagen, silk, wool and hair samples via cross-flow nanofiltrated amino acids. Rapid Communications for Mass Spectrometry 27(18):20392050.Google Scholar
Boudin, M, Boeckx, P, Vandenabeele, P, Van Strydonck, M. 2014. An archaeological mystery revealed by radiocarbon dating of cross-flow nanofiltrated amino acids derived from bone collagen, silk, and hair: case study of the bishops Baldwin I and Radbot II from Noyon-Tournai. Radiocarbon 56(2):603617.Google Scholar
Boudin, M, Van Strydonck, M, van den Brande, T, Synal, H-A, Wacker, L. 2015. A new AMS facility at the Royal Institute for Cultural Heritage, Brussels, Belgium. Nuclear Instruments and Methods in Physics Research B 361:120123.Google Scholar
Bronk Ramsey, C. 1995. Radiocarbon calibration and analysis of stratigraphy: the OxCal program. Radiocarbon 37(2):425430.Google Scholar
Bronk Ramsey, C. 2001. Development of the radiocarbon calibration program. Radiocarbon 43(2A):355363.Google Scholar
Dedhia, EM. 1998. Natural dyes. Colourage 45(3):4549.Google Scholar
DeNiro, MJ. 1985. Postmortem preservation and alteration of in vivo bone collagen isotope ratios in relation to palaeodietary reconstruction. Nature 317(6040):806809.Google Scholar
Gillespie, JM, Broad, A, Reis, PJ. 1969. Further study on the dietary-regulated biosynthesis of high-sulphur wool proteins. Biochemical Journal 112(1):4149.Google Scholar
Gulrajani, ML, Gupta, D. 1992. Natural Dyes and Application to Textiles. New Delhi: Department of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology.Google Scholar
Hajdas, I, Cristi, C, Bonani, G, Maurer, M. 2014. Textiles and radiocarbon dating. Radiocarbon 56(2):637643.Google Scholar
Herbst, W, Hunger, K. 1997. Industrial organic pigments. Production, properties, applications. Journal of American Institute of Conservation 45:107125.Google Scholar
Hofenk de Graaff J. 2004. The Colourful Past: Origins, Chemistry and Identification of Natural Dyestuffs . London: Archetype Publications.Google Scholar
Holme, I. 2006. Sir William Henry Perkin: a review of his life, work and legacy. Coloration Technology 122(5):235251.Google Scholar
IUPAC. 2006. Compendium of Chemical Terminology, 2nd edition (the “Gold Book”). Compiled by A D McNaught and A Wilkinson. Oxford: Blackwell Scientific Publications (1997). XML on-line corrected version: http://goldbook.iupac.org (2006-) created by M Nic, J Jirat, B Kosata; updates compiled by A Jenkins. ISBN 0-9678550-9-8. doi:10.1351/goldbook Google Scholar
Jones, LN, Rivett, DE, Tucker, DJ. 1998. Wool and related mammalian fibres. In: Lewin M, Pearce EM, editors. Handbook of Fibre Chemistry. New York: Marcel Dekker. p 356414.Google Scholar
Kim, K, Southon, J, Imamura, M, Sparks, R. 2008. Development of sample pretreatment of silk for radiocarbon dating. Radiocarbon 50(1):131138.Google Scholar
Kuzmin, Y, Keally, C, Jull, A, Burr, G, Klyuev, N. 2012. The earliest surviving textiles in East Asia from Chertovy Vorota Cave, Primorye Province, Russian Far East. Antiquity 86(332):325337.Google Scholar
Leeder, JD, Marshall, RC. 1982. Readily-extracted proteins from merino wool. Textile Research Journal 52(4):245249.Google Scholar
Ling, HT. 2009. Natural dyes in Eastern Asia, Vietnam and neighbouring countries. In: Bechtold T, Mussak R, editors. Handbook of Natural Colorants. Chichester: Wiley & Sons. p 6572.Google Scholar
Maclaren, JA, Milligan, B. 1981. Wool Science - The Chemical Reactivity of the Wool Fibre. Marrickville: Science Press. p 116.Google Scholar
Mannering, U, Possnert, G, Heinemeier, J, Gleba, M. 2010. Dating Danish textiles and skins from bog finds by means of 14C AMS. Journal of Archaeological Science 37(2):261268.Google Scholar
Nadeau, M-J, Grootes, PM, Schliecher, M, Hasselberg, P, Rieck, A, Bitterling, M. 1998. Sample throughput and data quality at the Leibniz-Labor AMS facility. Radiocarbon 40(1):239245.Google Scholar
O’Connell, TC, Hedges, REM. 1999a. Investigations into the effect of diet on modern human hair isotopic values. American Journal of Physical Anthropology 108(4):409425.Google Scholar
O’Connell, TC, Hedges, REM. 1999b. Isotopic comparison of hair and bone: archaeological analyses. Journal of Archaeological Science 26(6):661665.Google Scholar
O’Connell, TC, Hedges, REM, Healey, MA, Simpson, AHRW. 2001. Isotopic comparison of hair, nail and bone: modern analyses. Journal of Archaeological Science 28(11):12471255.Google Scholar
Rageth, J. 2004. Radiocarbon dating of textiles. Orientations 35(4):5762.Google Scholar
Reimer, PJ, Bard, E, Bayliss, A, Beck, JW, Blackwell, PG, Bronk Ramsey, C, Buck, CE, Cheng, H, Edwards, RL, Friedrich, M, Grootes, PM, Guilderson, TP, Haflidason, H, Hajdas, I, Hatté, C, Heaton, TJ, Hoffmann, DL, Hogg, AG, Hughen, KA, Kaiser, KF, Kromer, B, Manning, SW, Niu, M, Reimer, RW, Richards, DA, Scott, EM, Southon, JR, Staff, RA, Turney, CSM, van der Plicht, J. 2013. IntCal13 and Marine13 radiocarbon age calibration curves 0–50,000 years cal BP. Radiocarbon 55(4):18691887.Google Scholar
Schoeninger, MJ, Moore, KM, Murray, ML, Kingston, JD. 1989. Detection of bone preservation in archaeological and fossil samples. Applied Geochemistry 4:281292.Google Scholar
Sibley, LR, Jakes, KA. 1984. Survival of protein fibers in archaeological contexts. Science and Archaeology 26:1727.Google Scholar
Taylor, RE, Hare, E, Prior, CA, Kirner, DL, Wan, L, Burky, RR. 1995. Radiocarbon dating of biochemically characterized hair. Radiocarbon 37(2):319330.Google Scholar
Van den Berghe, I, Gleba, M, Mannering, U. 2009. Towards the identification of dyestuffs in Early Iron Age Scandinavian peat bog textiles. Journal of Archaeological Science 36(9):19101921.Google Scholar
van der Plicht, J, van der Sanden, WAB, Aerts, AT, Streurma, HJ. 2004. Dating bog bodies by means of 14C-AMS. Journal of Archaeological Science 31:471491.Google Scholar
Van Strydonck, Bénazeth D. 2014. Four Coptic textiles from the Louvre collection 14C redated after 55 years. Radiocarbon 56(1):15.Google Scholar
Van Strydonck, M, Grömer, K. 2013. Analysis reports – 14C-dating of textiles from the Hallstatt salt mine. In: Grömer K, Kern A, Reschreiter H, Rösel-Mautendorfer H, editors. Textiles from Hallstatt. Weaving Culture in Bronze and Iron Age Salt Mines. Textilien aus Hallstatt. Gewebte Kultur aus dem bronze- und eisenzeitlichen Salzbergwerk. Budapest: Archaeolingua 29. p 189192.Google Scholar
Van Strydonck, M, Van der Borg, K. 1990–1991. The construction of a preparation line for AMS-targets at the Royal Institute for Cultural Heritage, Brussels. Bulletin Koninklijk Instituut voor Kunstpatrimonium 23:228234.Google Scholar
Van Strydonck, M, De Moor, A, Bénazeth, D. 2004. 14C dating compared to art historical dating of Roman and Coptic textiles from Egypt. Radiocarbon 46(1):231244.Google Scholar
Van Strydonck, M, Boudin, M, Ervynck, A. 2005. Humans and myotragus: the issue of sample integrity in radiocarbon dating. In: Alcover JA, Bover P, editors. Proceedings of the International Symposium “Insular Vertebrate Evolution: The Palaeontological Approach.” Palma. Onografies de la Societat d’Història Natural de les Balears 12:369–76.Google Scholar
Vedeler, M, Bender Jørgensen, L. 2013. Out of the Norwegian glaciers: Lendbreen—a tunic from the early first millennium AD. Antiquity 87(337):788801.Google Scholar
Wouters, J. 1985. High performance liquid chromatography of anthaquinones analysis of plant and insect extracts and dyed textiles. Studies in Conservation 30:119128.Google Scholar