Hostname: page-component-cd9895bd7-jkksz Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-12-21T02:15:25.305Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Third-order approximation to short-crested waves

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  19 April 2006

J. R. C. Hsu
Affiliation:
Department of Civil Engineering, The University of Western Australia, Nedlands
Y. Tsuchiya
Affiliation:
Department of Civil Engineering, The University of Western Australia, Nedlands Permanent address: Disaster Prevention Research Institute, Kyoto University, Japan.
R. Silvester
Affiliation:
Department of Civil Engineering, The University of Western Australia, Nedlands

Abstract

Short-crested wave systems, as produced by two progressive waves propagating at an oblique angle to each other, have an extremely important effect on a sedimentary bed. The complex water-particle motions are conducive to lifting material into suspension and sustaining it in motion. In order to study this phenomenon rigorously, the variables of this wave system are derived to a third-order approximation by a perturbation method. The case of waves reflecting obliquely from a vertical wall is examined under the assumptions of full reflexion, uniform finite depth and an inviscid incompressible fluid. The new formulation reduces to standing or Stokes waves at the limiting angles of approach. Expressions for kinematic quantities are also presented.

Type
Research Article
Copyright
© 1979 Cambridge University Press

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Chappelear, J. E. 1961 On the description of short-crested waves. Beach Erosion Bd, U.S. Army, Corps Engrs, Tech. Memo. no. 125.Google Scholar
Concus, P. 1964 Standing capillary-gravity waves of finite amplitude: corrigendum. J. Fluid Mech. 19, 264266.Google Scholar
Fuchs, R. A. 1962 On the theory of short-crested oscillatory waves. Gravity Waves, U.S. Nat. Bur. Stand. circular 521, pp. 187200.Google Scholar
Fultz, D. 1962 An experimental note on finite-amplitude standing gravity waves. J. Fluid Mech. 13, 193212.Google Scholar
Coda, Y. & Kakizaki, S. 1966 Study on finite amplitude standing waves and their pressure upon a vertical wall. Rep. Port Harbour Res. Inst. Japan, vol. 5, no. 10 (in Japanese).
Hsu, J. R. C. 1977 Kinematics of short-crested waves. 6th Austral. Conf. Hydraul. Fluid Mech., Adelaide, pp. 5659.Google Scholar
Laitone, E. V. 1962 Limiting conditions for cnoidal and Stokes waves. J. Geophys. Res. 67, 15551564.Google Scholar
Silvester, R. 1972 Wave reflection at seawalls and breakwaters. Proc. Inst. Civil Engrs 51, 123131.Google Scholar
Silvester, R. 1975 Sediment transmission across entrances by natural means. Proc. 16th Conf. IAHR vol. 1, pp. 145156.
Silvester, R. 1977 The role of wave reflection in coastal processes. Proc. Coastal Sediments 77 A.S.C.E. pp. 639654.
Skjelbreia, L. 1959 Gravity Waves, Stokes’ Third Order Approximation; Tables of Functions. Berkeley, Calif.: Engineering Foundation Council of Wave Research.
Stokes, G. G. 1847 On the theory of oscillatory waves. Trans. Camb. Phil. Soc. 8, 441455.Google Scholar
Tadjbakhsh, I. & Keller, J. B. 1960 Standing surface waves of finite amplitude. J. Fluid Mech. 8, 442451.Google Scholar