Interpretation of phase velocity measurements of wind-generated surface waves

Abstract

Differences in experimental results for surface gravity wave phase speeds obtained by cross spectra and slope-height spectra are compared. It is shown that, for a simple two-dimensional model containing both dispersive and non-dispersive waves, the observed differences can be explained readily. The slope-height technique measures a weighted average of the wavenumber squared; for frequencies sufficiently large compared with the dominant frequency, the computed phase-speed variation with frequency is representative of the wave having the larger wavenumber - the dispersive wave. For the cross-spectral method, it is shown that the small-probe-separation assumption usually employed is not valid for frequencies much larger than the dominant frequency, except at the singular point where both waves have exactly equal spectral densities and the phase function represents an average of the two modes. For all other cases, the phase function approaches that of the wave having the larger spectral density, and essentially ignores the presence of the other wave, even if both modes are relatively close in their contributions to the total spectral density.