Hostname: page-component-cd9895bd7-gvvz8 Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-12-18T18:52:56.364Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

On the variation and growth of wave-slope spectra in the capillary-gravity range with increasing wind

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  11 April 2006

Steven R. Long
Affiliation:
Center for Marine and Coastal Studies, North Carolina State University, Raleigh Present address: NASA Wallops Flight Center, Wallops Island, Virginia 23337.
Norden E. Huang
Affiliation:
Applied Science Directorate, NASA Wallops Flight Center, Wallops Island, Virginia 23337

Abstract

A new laser device has been used to make direct wave-slope measurements in the capillary-gravity range. Owing to the design principles, the digital nature of the system and the use of a laser beam as a probe, the earlier problems of intensity variations and meniscus effects were avoided. Using this new technique, wave-slope spectra both down and across the channel were obtained for different wind conditions, along with corresponding mean-square slope values. Comparisons are made with existing data. The results indicate that a quasi-equilibrium state may exist for each wind speed and that it increases in intensity with increasing wind, which may imply an asymptotic nature for the equilibrium-range coefficient Caa. From the data, two significant frictional velocities, 17.5 and 31 cm/s respectively, are identified as critical values for different ranges of wave development.

Type
Research Article
Copyright
© 1976 Cambridge University Press

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Banner, M. L. & Peillips, O. M. 1974 On the incipient breaking of small scale waves. J. Fluid Mech. 65, 647656.Google Scholar
Cox, C. S. 1958 Measurements of slopes of high frequency wind waves. J. Mar. Res. 16, 199225.Google Scholar
Cox, C. S. & Munk, W. H. 1956 Measurements of the roughness of the sea surface from photographs of the sun's glitter. Bull. Scripps Inst. Ocean., Univ. Calif. 6, no. 9.Google Scholar
Crapper, G. D. 1970 Non-linear capillary waves generated by steep gravity waves. J. Fluid Mech. 40, 149159.Google Scholar
Dorman, C. E. & Mollo-Christensen, E. 1973 Observation of the structure of moving gust patterns over a water surface ('cat's paws'). J. Phys. Ocean. 3, 120132.Google Scholar
Huang, N. E., Sorrell, F. Y., Tung, C. C., Gutman, N., Long, S. R. & Sturm, O. V. 1974 Ocean dynamics studies – of current-wave interactions. N.A.S.A. Contractor Rep. no. CR-137467.
Jones, W. L., Granteam, W. L., Schroeder, L. C., Johnson, J. W., Swift, C. T. & Mitchell, J. L. 1975 Microwave scattering from the ocean surface. I.E.E.E. Trans. Microwave Theor. Tech. 1053-1058.
Kitaigorodskii, S. A. 1970 The Physics of Air-Sea Interaction. Jerusalem: Keter Press.
Larson, T. R. & Wright, J. W. 1975 Wind-generated gravity-capillary waves: laboratory measurements of temporal growth rates using microwave backscatter. J. Fluid Mech. 70, 417436.Google Scholar
Mcgoldrick, L. F. 1970 An experiment on second-order capillary gravity resonant wave interactions. J. Fluid Alech. 40, 251271.Google Scholar
Miles, J. W. 1957 On the generation of surface waves by shear flows. J. Fluid Mech. 3, 185204.Google Scholar
Miles, J. W. 1962 On the generation of surface waves by shear flows. Part 4. J. Fluid Wech. 13, 433448.Google Scholar
Mitsuyasu, H. 1968 On the growth of the spectrum of wind generated waves. I. Rep. Res. Inst. Appl. Mech., Kyushu Univ. 16, 459482.Google Scholar
Peillips, O. M. 1957 On the generation of waves by turbulent wind. J. Fluid Mech. 2, 417445.Google Scholar
Phillips, O. M. 1958 The equilibrium range in the spectrum of wind-generated waves. J. Fluid Mech. 4, 426434.Google Scholar
Phillips, O. M. 1966 The Dynamics of the Upper Ocean. Cambridge University Press.
Phillips, O. M. & Banner, M. L. 1974 Wave breaking in the presence of wind drift and swell. J. Fluid Mech. 66, 625640.Google Scholar
Sturm, G. V. 1973 Experimental studies of capillary waves on currents. Ph.D. thesis, Department of Engineering Mechanics, North Carolina State University at Raleigh. University Microfilms, Ann Arbor, Michigan.
Sturm, G. V. & Sorrell, F. Y. 1973 Optical wave measurement technique and experimental comparison with wave height probes. Appl. Opt. 12, 19281933.Google Scholar
Wu, J. 1968 Laboratory studies of wind-wave interactions. J. Fluid Mech. 34, 91111.Google Scholar
Wu, J. 1971 Slope and curvature distributions of wind-disturbed water surface. J. Opt. Soc. Am. 61, 852858.Google Scholar