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Extreme wave statistics of long-crested irregular waves over a shoal

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  11 November 2019

Karsten Trulsen Open the ORCID record for Karsten Trulsen [Opens in a new window] ,
Anne Raustøl ,
Stian Jorde  and
Lisa Bæverfjord Rye
Karsten Trulsen*
Affiliation:
Department of Mathematics, University of Oslo, 0371 Oslo, Norway
Anne Raustøl
Affiliation:
Department of Mathematics, University of Oslo, 0371 Oslo, Norway
Stian Jorde
Affiliation:
Department of Mathematics, University of Oslo, 0371 Oslo, Norway
Lisa Bæverfjord Rye
Affiliation:
Department of Mathematics, University of Oslo, 0371 Oslo, Norway
*
†Email address for correspondence: [email protected]
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Abstract

We report laboratory experiments of long-crested irregular water surface waves propagating over a shoal. For a sufficiently shallow shoal we find that the surface elevation can have a local maximum of skewness and kurtosis above the shallower part of the shoal close to the edge on the incoming side, and a local minimum of skewness over the downward slope on the lee side of the shoal. We find that the horizontal fluid velocity can have a local maximum and minimum of skewness at the same locations as those for the surface elevation. However, the kurtosis of the horizontal fluid velocity can have a local maximum over the downward slope on the lee side of the shoal, different from the location of the maximum of kurtosis of the surface elevation.

JFM classification

Waves/Free-surface Flows: Surface gravity waves
Type
JFM Rapids
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 882 , 10 January 2020 , R2
Copyright
© 2019 Cambridge University Press 

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