6 - Radical and Intersectional Food Systems in the Context of Multiple Crises: The Case of Ollas Comunes in Chile

Summary

In 2020, Chile, like many countries across the globe, experienced a series of interrelated problems that affected the entire society. Besides the already known effects of climate change (Fernández et al, 2023), an unprecedented global pandemic resulted in high levels of inequality (Gozzi et al, 2021), escalating the already damaged situation of political- institutional representation after the October 2019 social revolt (Arias- Loyola, 2021). These crises mainly affected the most marginalized and vulnerable socio-economic groups, also manifesting the crisis of neoliberal capitalism. It was in this context, ollas comunes (communal kitchens) arose as a self- managed, solidarity- based, and collective response from multiple affected territories and communities. Ollas comunes are made up of self- organized groups of people providing free meals to their communities. It not only represents a local response to critical socio- economic circumstances, but also constitutes a political act of resistance and protest (Apablaza, 2021). These cooperative actions reveal several lessons and pathways towards food justice and sovereignty.

Ollas comunes have a long history in Latin American cities. In Chile, the rise of the olla común dates from approximately the 1930s, after the Great Depression, which directly affected the ability of people to access food due to the economic crisis (Gallardo, 1985). Led mainly by women in the 1980s, ollas comunes emerged in greater numbers in response to the deep economic crisis and weak state policy under the Pinochet military dictatorship which produced extreme poverty across the country (Hardy, 1986). With the return to democracy in the 1990s and greater economic prosperity, most ollas comunes disappeared, while a few became formalized as organizations providing food services for public schools (Richer, 2000).

In 2019, citizen discontent triggered by profound socio- economic inequalities of the prevailing neoliberal model led to social revolt throughout Chile. Several collaborative actions were developed, including ollas comunes (Fina et al, 2022). However, due to the 2020 COVID-19 pandemic and related deep health and economic crises, ollas comunes expanded massively in several Chilean cities in order to combat food insecurity among the most vulnerable parts of the population. Like the 1980s, women's leadership in ollas comunes might be seen as connected to their role of caring for families, communities, and their neighbourhoods (Geógrafas Chile et al, 2021). This is part of a revival of the collective gender memory of resistance practices in times of crisis (Hiner et al, 2022).