NOTE K - On the Elevation of Beaches by Tides

Summary

If the earth were a spheroid of revolution, covered by one uniform ocean, two great tidal waves would follow each other round the globe at a distance of twelve hours.

Suppose several high narrow strips of land were now to encircle the globe, passing through the opposite poles, and dividing the earth's surface into several great unequal oceans, a separate tide would be raised in each. When the tidal wave had reached the farthest shore of one of them, conceive the causes that produce it to cease; then the wave thus raised would recede to the opposite shore, and continue to oscillate until destroyed by the friction of its bed. But if, instead of ceasing to act, the causes which produced the tide were to reappear at the opposite shore of the ocean, at the very moment when the reflected tide had returned to the place of its origin; then the second tide would act in augmentation of the first, and, if this continued, tides of great height might be produced for ages. The result might be, that the narrow ridge dividing the adjacent oceans would be broken through, and the tidal wave traverse a broader tract than in the former ocean. Let us imagine the new ocean to be just so much broader than the old, that the reflected tide would return to the origin of the tidal movement half a tide later than before: then, instead of two superimposed tides, we should have a tide arising from the subtraction of one from the other.