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Published online by Cambridge University Press: 05 October 2010
The small waves raised on the surface of the water, by the passage of a slight breeze, are called Ripple; and a series of marks, very similar in appearance, which are sometimes seen at low water on the flat part of a sea-beach formed of fine sand, are called ripple-marks. Such marks occur in various strata, and are regarded as evidence of their having formed beneath the sea. Similar appearances occur when a strong wind drives over the face of a sandy plain.
It appears that two fluids of different specific gravity, the lighter passing over the surface of the former, always concur in the formation of ripple. It seems also, that the lines of ripple-mark are at right angles to the direction of the current which forms them.
If a fluid like air pass over the surface of perfectly quiescent water, in a plain absolutely parallel, it will have no effect; but if it impinge on the surface of that water with the slightest inclination, it will raise a small wave, which will be propagated by undulations to great distances. If the direction of the wind is very nearly parallel to the surface of the water, this first wave, being raised above the general surface, will protect that part of the water immediately beyond it from the full effect of the wind, which will therefore again impinge upon the water at a little distance: and, this concurring with the undulation, will tend to produce another small wave, and thus, again, new waves will be produced.
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