Introduction

Summary

In 1968 Magnus Pyke argued that what “human communities choose to eat is only partly dependent on their physiological requirements, and even less on intellectual reasoning and a knowledge of what these physiological requirements are.” Pyke, a nutritional scientist who had worked under the chief scientific advisor to Britain’s Ministry of Food during World War II, illustrated his point by recounting that, in preparing the nation for war, military officials had demanded that land be allocated to grow gherkins. They had insisted, Pyke recalled, that the British soldier “could not fight without a proper supply of pickles to eat with his cold meat.” The Ministry of War had apparently been “unmoved to learn from the nutritional experts” that pickles offered little of material value to the diet, as they had almost no calories, vitamins, or minerals. The Ministry of Food, Pyke asserted, nevertheless designated precious agricultural land for gherkin cultivation.