Skip to main content Accessibility help

We use cookies to distinguish you from other users and to provide you with a better experience on our websites. Close this message to accept cookies or find out how to manage your cookie settings.

Close cookie message
×
Hostname: page-component-cd9895bd7-dk4vv Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-12-27T11:37:13.917Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

References

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  20 April 2023

Karen Tranberg Hansen
Karen Tranberg Hansen
Affiliation:
Northwestern University, Illinois
Get access

Summary

A summary is not available for this content so a preview has been provided. Please use the Get access link above for information on how to access this content.
Image of the first page of this content. For PDF version, please use the ‘Save PDF’ preceeding this image.'
Type
Chapter
Information
Dress Cultures in Zambia
Interwoven Histories, Global Exchanges, and Everyday Life
 , pp. 182 - 199
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Print publication year: 2023

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Primary Sources

Akou, Heather M. 2011. The Politics of Dress in Somali Culture. Bloomington: Indiana University Press.Google Scholar
Allman, Jean (ed.). 2004. Fashioning Africa: power and the politics of dress. Bloomington: Indiana University Press.Google Scholar
Ambler, Charles. 1990. ‘Alcohol, racial segregation and popular politics in Northern Rhodesia’, Journal of African History 31(2): 295–313.Google Scholar
Ambler, Charles. 2001. ‘Popular films and colonial audiences: the movies in Northern Rhodesia’, American Historical Review 106(1): 81–105.Google Scholar
Anon. 2009. Here I Stand: verbatim testimony of second republican president Dr. Frederick Chiluba. Lusaka: ZDS Press Service.Google Scholar
Ansell, Gwen. 2004. Soweto Blues: jazz, popular music and politics in South Africa. London: Continuum.Google Scholar
Appadurai, Arjun (ed.). 1986. ‘Introduction: commodities and the politics of value’ in Appadurai, Arjun (ed.), The Social Life of Things: commodities in cultural perspective. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. 3–63.Google Scholar
Ardener, Shirley G. 1973. ‘Sexual insult and female militancy’, Man 8(3): 422–40.Google Scholar
Banerjee, Mukulita, and Miller, Daniel. 2004. The Sari. Oxford: Berg.Google Scholar
Barber, Karin. 2007. ‘When people cross thresholds’, African Studies Review 50(2): 111–24.Google Scholar
Barnard, Malcolm. 2014. Fashion Theory: an introduction. London: Bloomsbury.Google Scholar
Barnes, John A. [1951] 1959. ‘The Fort Jameson Ngoni’, in Colson, Elizabeth and Gluckman, Max (eds), Seven Tribes of British Central Africa. Manchester: Manchester University Press. 194–252.Google Scholar
Barrett, Michael. 2013. ‘“Walking Home Majestically”: consumption and the enactment of social status among labour migrants from Barotseland, 1935–1965’ in Ross, Robert, Hinfelaar, Marja, and Pesa, Iva (eds), The Objects of Life in Central Africa: the history of consumption and social change, 1840–1980. Leiden: Brill. 93–114.Google Scholar
Barthes, Roland. 1983. The Fashion System. Translated by Matthew Ward and Richard Howard. Berkeley: University of California Press.Google Scholar
Bastian, Misty. 2005. ‘The naked and the nude: historically multiple meanings of Oto (undress) in Southeastern Nigeria’ in Masquelier, Adeline (ed.), Dirt, Undress, and Difference: critical perspectives on the body’s surface. Bloomington: Indiana University Press. 34–60.Google Scholar
Bayart, Jean-Francois. 1993. The State in Africa: the politics of the belly. New York: Longman.Google Scholar
Becker, Heike. 2012. ‘Anthropology and the study of popular culture: a perspective from the southern tip of the continent’, Research in African Literatures 43(4): 17–37.Google Scholar
Berzock, Kathleen Bickford. 2017. ‘African prints/African ownership: on naming, value, and classics’ in Gott, Suzanne, Loughran, Kristyne, Quick, Betsy D., and Rabine, Leslie (eds), African-Print Fashion Now! A story of taste, globalization, and style. Los Angeles, CA: Fowler Museum. 71–79.Google Scholar
Bloom, Leonard. 1972. ‘Some values and attitudes of young Zambians, studied through spontaneous autobiographies’, African Social Research 14: 288–300.Google Scholar
Bloomberg Quicktakes. ‘Inside the $130 Billion Second-Hand Fashion Market’. www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2021-11-26/inside-the-130-billion-second-hand-fashion-market. Accessed 5 December 2021.Google Scholar
Boateng, Boatema. 2021. ‘Not African? Contested origins of wax print and its high-fashion appropriation’, Textile Museum Journal 48: 118–37.Google Scholar
Bordo, Susan. 1993. Unbearable Weight: feminism, western culture, and the body. Berkeley: University of California Press.Google Scholar
Brooks, Andrew. 2010. ‘Spinning and weaving discontent: labour relations and the production of meaning at Zambia-China Mulungushi Textiles’, Journal of Southern African Studies 36(1): 113–32.Google Scholar
Brooks, Andrew. 2015. Clothing Poverty: the hidden world of fast fashion and second-hand clothes. London: Zed Books.Google Scholar
Brooks, George, Jr. 1976. ‘The Signares of Saint-Louis and Gorée: women entrepreneurs in eighteenth century Senegal’ in Hafkin, Nancy and Bay, Edna (eds), Women in Africa. Stanford, CA: Stanford University Press. 19–44.Google Scholar
Brown, Maria Grace. 2017. Khartoum at Night: fashion and the body politics in imperial Sudan. Stanford, CA: Stanford University Press.Google Scholar
Brown, Patricia Leigh. 1989. ‘Shopper’s World: Zambia’s social fabric’, New York Times, 26 November.Google Scholar
Burgess, Thomas. 2002. ‘Cinema, bell bottoms, and miniskirts: struggles over youth and citizenship in revolutionary Zanzibar’, International Journal of African Historical Studies 35(2–3): 287–313.Google Scholar
Burton, Andrew. 2001. ‘Urchins, loafers and the cult of the cowboy: urbanization and delinquency in Dar es Salaam, 1919–61’, Journal of African History 42(2): 199–216.Google Scholar
Byfield, Judith A. 2002. The Bluest Hands: a social and economic history of women dyers in Abeokuta (Nigeria), 1890–1940. Portsmouth, NH: Heinemann.Google Scholar
Cameron, Elisabeth L. 2010. ‘Republic of Congo and Democratic Republic of Congo’ in Eicher, Joanne B. and Ross, Doran H. (eds), Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol 1: Africa. Oxford: Berg. 371–72.Google Scholar
Carpenter, Carrie. 2018. ‘Black Panther’s Angela Bassett dons $169 Mangishi Doll Co dress to present at American Black Film Festival Honors’, Zambia Daily Mail. 26 February.Google Scholar
Chauncey, George Jr. 1981. ‘The locus of reproduction: women’s labour in the Zambian Copperbelt, 1927–1953’, Journal of Southern African Studies 7(2):135–64.Google Scholar
Cheang, Sarah, de Greef, Erica, and Takagi, Yoko (eds). 2021. Rethinking Fashion Globalization. London: Bloomsbury.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Chipande, Hikabwa D. 2016. ‘Mining for goals: football and social change on the Zambian Copperbelt 1940s–1960s’, Radical History Review 125: 55–73.Google Scholar
Colloredo-Mansfeld, Rudi. 2003. ‘Introduction: matter unbound’, Journal of Material Culture 8(3): 245–54.Google Scholar
Colson, Elizabeth. 1958. Marriage and the Family among the Plateau Tonga of Northern Rhodesia. Manchester: Manchester University Press.Google Scholar
Comaroff, John L., and Comaroff, Jean, 1997. ‘Fashioning the colonial subject: the empire’s old clothes’ in Comaroff, John L. and Comaroff, Jean, Of Revelation and Revolution, vol. 2: The Dialectics of Modernity on a South African Frontier. Chicago, IL: University of Chicago Press. 218–73.Google Scholar
Cooper, Leah Faye. 2021. ‘Ruth E. Carter dressed the Coming 2 America cast in “the Majesty of Contemporary Africa”’, Harper’s Bazaar, 17 March. www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/film-tv/a35855261/ruth-e-carter-coming-2-america-interview/. Accessed 28 October 2021.Google Scholar
Cosgrave, Stuart. 1998. ‘The zoot suit and style warfare’ in McRobbie, Angela (ed.), Zoot Suits and Second-Hand Dresses: an anthology of fashion and music. Boston: Unwin Hyman. 23–49Google Scholar
Craik, Jennifer. 1994. The Face of Fashion: cultural studies in fashion. London: Routledge.Google Scholar
Daloz, Jean-Pascal. 2003. ‘Ostentation in comparative perspective: culture and elite legitimation’ in Frederik Engelstad (ed.), Comparative Studies in Culture and Power, Comparative Social Research 21: 29–62.Google Scholar
Davis, John Merle. [1933] 1968. Modern Industry and the African: an enquiry into the effect of the copper mines of Central Africa upon native society and the work of the Christian missions. 2nd edition. New York: Augustus M. Kelley.Google Scholar
Delhave, Christine, and Woets, Rhoda. 2015. ‘The commodification of ethnicity: Vlisco fabrics and wax cloth in Ghana’, International Journal of Fashion Studies 2(1): 77–97.Google Scholar
Diabate, Naminata. 2020. Naked Agency: genital cursing and biopolitics in Africa. Durham, NC: Duke University Press.Google Scholar
Dobler, Gregor. 2009. ‘Chinese shops and the formation of a Chinese expatriate community in Namibia’, China Quarterly 199: 707–27.Google Scholar
Dogbe, Esi. 2003. ‘Unraveled yarns: dress, consumption, and yarns. Women’s bodies in Ghanaian culture’, Fashion Theory 7(3–4): 377–95.Google Scholar
Dolat, Sunny. 2017. Not African Enough? A fashion book by the Nest Collective. Nairobi: Nest Arts Company.Google Scholar
Dugger, Cecilia W. 2009. ‘Battle to halt graft in Africa ebbs’, New York Times, June 10, A1.Google Scholar
Duncan, Tyrell. 1996. Prospects for sustainable human development in Zambia. Lusaka: Government of the Republic of Zambia and the United Nations System in Zambia.Google Scholar
DuPlessis, Robert. 2016. The Material Atlantic: clothing, commerce, and colonization in the Atlantic World, 1650–1800. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.Google Scholar
Eicher, Joanne B., and Roach-Higgins, Mary Ellen. 1992. ‘Definitions and classifications of dress: implications for analysis of gender roles’ in Barnes, Ruth and Eicher, Joanne B. (eds), Dress and Gender: making and meaning. Oxford: Berg. 8–28.Google Scholar
Eicher, Joanne, and Erekosima, Tonye V.. 1995. ‘Why do they call it Kalabari? Cultural authentication and the demarcation of ethnic identity’ in Eicher, Joanne B. (ed.), Dress and Ethnicity. Oxford: Berg. 139–64.Google Scholar
Eicher, Joanne B. 1995. ‘Introduction: dress as expression of ethnic identity’ in Eicher, Joanne B. (ed.), Dress and Ethnicity. Oxford: Berg. 1–5.Google Scholar
Eicher, Joanne B., and Sumberg, Barbara. 1995. ‘World fashion, ethnic, and national dress’ in Eicher, Joanne B. (ed.), Dress and Ethnicity. Oxford: Berg. 295–306.Google Scholar
Elias, Norbert. [1937] 1978. The Civilising Process, vol. 1: the History of Manners. Translated by Edmund Jephcott. Oxford: Basil Blackwell.Google Scholar
Entwistle, Joan. 2000. The Fashioned Body: fashion, dress, and modern social theory. Cambridge: Polity Press.Google Scholar
Entwistle, Joan. 2001. ‘The dressed body’ in Entwistle, Joanne and Wilson, Elizabeth (eds), Body Dressing. Oxford: Berg. 33–58.Google Scholar
Epstein, Arnold L. 1953. ‘The role of African courts in urban communities of the Northern Rhodesia Copperbelt’, Rhodes-Livingstone Journal 13: 1–17.Google Scholar
Epstein, Arnold L. 1954. ‘Juridical techniques and the judicial process’, Rhodes-Livingstone Papers 23.Google Scholar
Epstein, Arnold L. 1958. Politics in an Urban African Community. Manchester: Manchester University Press.Google Scholar
Epstein, Arnold L. 1981. Urbanization and Kinship: the domestic domain on the Copperbelt of Zambia, 1950–1956. New York: Academic Press.Google Scholar
Epstein, Arnold L. 1992a. ‘Tribal elders to trade unions’ in Arnold L. Epstein, Scenes from African urban life: collected Copperbelt papers. Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press. 42–48.Google Scholar
Epstein, Arnold L. 1992b. ‘The role of the urban courts’ in Arnold L. Epstein, Scenes from African urban life: collected Copperbelt papers. Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press. 22–41.Google Scholar
Epstein, Arnold L. 1992c. ‘Linguistic innovation and culture on the Copperbelt’ in Arnold L. Epstein, Scenes from African urban life: collected Copperbelt papers. Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press. 99–118.Google Scholar
Fabian, Johannes. 1990. History from Below: The ‘Vocabulary of Elisabethville’ by Andre Yav. Text, translation, and interpretive essays. Philadelphia, PA: John Benjamins.Google Scholar
Fair, Laura. 2001. Pastimes and Politics: culture, community, and identity in post-abolition urban Zanzibar, 1890–1945. Athens: Ohio University Press.Google Scholar
Fair, Laura. 2004. ‘Remaking fashion in the Paris of the Indian Ocean: dress, performance, and the cultural construction of a cosmopolitan Zanzibari identity’ in Allman, Jean (ed.), Fashioning Africa: power and the politics of dress. Bloomington: Indiana University Press. 13–30.Google Scholar
Farmer, Ben. 2015. ‘Harmid Karzai’s signature striped coat bound for the British Museum’, Telegraph, 21 April. www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/asia/afghanistan/11552496/Hamid-Karzai’s-signature-striped-coat-bound-for-British-Museum. Accessed 5 October 2020.Google Scholar
Fee, Sarah, and Machado, Pedro. 2017. ‘Entangled histories: translocal textile trades in Eastern Africa, c. 800 CE to the early twentieth century’, Textile History 48(1): 4–14.Google Scholar
Ferguson, James. 1999. Expectations of Modernity: myths and meanings of urban life on the Zambian Copperbelt. Berkeley: University of California Press.Google Scholar
Finkelstein, Joanne. 1998. Fashion: an introduction. New York: New York University Press.Google Scholar
Fletcher, Kate, and Klepp, Ingun Grimstad (eds). 2017. Opening up the Wardrobe: a methods book. Oslo: Novus Press.Google Scholar
Fraenkel, Peter. 1959. Wayaleshi. London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson.Google Scholar
Fretwell, Elizabeth Ann. 2018. ‘Tailoring Benin: Material Culture and Artisan Production in Urban West Africa’. PhD thesis, University of Chicago.Google Scholar
Friedman, Jonathan. 1991. ‘Consuming desires: strategies of selfhood and appropriation’, Cultural Anthropology 6(2): 154–63.Google Scholar
Gandoulou, Justin-Daniel. 1989. Dandies à Bacongo: le culte de l’élegance dans la société congolaise contemporaine. Paris: L’Harmattan.Google Scholar
Geisler, Gisela. 1987. ‘“Sisters under the skin”: women and the Women’s League in Zambia’, Journal of Modern African Studies 25(1): 43–66.Google Scholar
Gilbert, Juliet. 2019. ‘Mobile identities: photography, smartphones and aspirations in urban Nigeria’, Africa 89(2): 246–65.Google Scholar
Gluckman, Max. 1955. Custom and Conflict in Africa. Oxford: Blackwell.Google Scholar
Gondola, Didier Ch. 2010. ‘La Sape exposed! High fashion among lower-class Congolese youth: from colonial modernity to global cosmopolitanism’ in Gott, Suzanne and Loughran, Kristyne (eds), Contemporary African Fashion. Bloomington: Indiana University Press. 157–73.Google Scholar
Gondola, Didier Ch. 2016. Tropical Cowboys: westerns, violence, and masculinity in Kinshasa. Bloomington: Indiana University Press.Google Scholar
Gott, Suzanne, and Loughran, Kristyne (eds). 2010. Contemporary African Fashion. Bloomington: Indiana University Presss.Google Scholar
Gott, Suzanne, Loughran, Kristyne, Quick, Betsy D., and Rabine, Leslie (eds). 2017. African-Print Fashion Now! A story of taste, globalization, and style. Los Angeles, CA: Fowler Museum.Google Scholar
Grabski, Joanna. 2009. ‘Making fashion in the city: a case study of tailors and designers in Dakar, Senegal’, Fashion Theory 13(2): 215–42.Google Scholar
Guille, Jackie. 1995. ‘Southern African textiles today: design, industry and collective Enterprise’ in Picton, John (ed.), Technology, Tradition and Lurex: the art of textiles in Africa. London: Lund Humphries. 51–54.Google Scholar
Guyer, Jane. 2004. Marginal Gains: monetary transactions in Atlantic Africa. Chicago, IL: University of Chicago Press.Google Scholar
Haggblade, Steven. 1990. ‘The flip side of fashion: used clothing exports to the Third World’, Journal of Development Studies 26(3): 505–21.Google Scholar
Hansen, Karen Tranberg. 1975. ‘Married women and work: explorations from an urban case study’, African Social Research 20: 777–99.Google Scholar
Hansen, Karen Tranberg. 1980. ‘When sex becomes a critical variable: married women and extra-domestic work in Lusaka, Zambia’, African Social Research 30: 831–49.Google Scholar
Hansen, Karen Tranberg. 1989. Distant Companions: servants and employers in Zambia, 1900–1985. Ithaca, NY: Cornell University Press.Google Scholar
Hansen, Karen Tranberg. (ed.) 1992. African Encounters with Domesticity. Brunswick, NJ: Rutgers University Press.Google Scholar
Hansen, Karen Tranberg. 1996. ‘Washing dirty laundry in public: local court, custom, and gender relations in post-colonial Zambia’ in Sheldon, Kathleen (ed.), Courtyards, Markets, and City Streets: urban women in Africa, Boulder, CO: Westview Press. 105–27.Google Scholar
Hansen, Karen Tranberg. 1997. Keeping House in Lusaka. New York: Columbia University Press.Google Scholar
Hansen, Karen Tranberg. 1999. ‘Transnational biographies and local meanings: used clothing practices in Lusaka’, Journal of Southern African Studies 21(1):131–45.Google Scholar
Hansen, Karen Tranberg. 2000a. Salaula: the world of secondhand clothing and Zambia. Chicago, IL: University of Chicago Press.Google Scholar
Hansen, Karen Tranberg. 2000b. ‘Gender and difference: youth, bodies and clothing in Zambia’ in Goddard, Victoria Ana (ed.), Gender, Agency and Change: anthropological perspectives. London: Routledge. 32–55.Google Scholar
Hansen, Karen Tranberg. 2003. ‘Fashioning: Zambian moments’, Journal of Material Culture 8(3): 301–10.Google Scholar
Hansen, Karen Tranberg. 2004a. ‘Helping or hindering? Controversies around the international second-hand clothing trade’, Anthropology Today 20(4): 3–9.Google Scholar
Hansen, Karen Tranberg. 2004b. ‘The world in dress: anthropological perspectives on clothing, fashion, and culture’, Annual Reviews of Anthropology 33: 369–92.Google Scholar
Hansen, Karen Tranberg. 2004c. ‘Dressing dangerously: miniskirts, gender relations, and sexuality in Zambia’ in Alman, Jean (ed.), Fashioning Africa: power and the politics of dress. Bloomington: Indiana University Press. 166–85.Google Scholar
Hansen, Karen Tranberg. 2008. ‘Filling up the wardrobe: decision making, clothing purchase, and dress valuation in Lusaka, Zambia’ in Hahn, Hans Peter (ed.), Consumption in Africa: anthropological approaches. Berlin: LIT Verlag. 79–96.Google Scholar
Hansen, Karen Tranberg. 2013a. ‘Fabricating dreams: sewing machines, tailors, and urban entrepreneurship in Zambia’ in Ross, Robert, Hinfelaar, Marja, and Pesa, Iva (eds), The Objects of Life in Central Africa: the history of consumption and social change, 1840–1980. Leiden: Brill. 167–85.Google Scholar
Hansen, Karen Tranberg. 2013b. ‘Introduction’ in Hansen, Karen Tranberg and Madison, Soyini D. (eds), African Dress: fashion, agency, performance. London: Bloomsbury. 1–11.Google Scholar
Hansen, Karen Tranberg. 2015. ‘Urban research in a hostile setting: Godfrey Wilson in Broken Hill, Northern Rhodesia, 1938–1940’. Kronos 47: 193–214.Google Scholar
Hansen, Karen Tranberg. 2017. ‘From grandmother’s dress to the fashion runway: chitenge styles in Zambia’ in Gott, Suzanne, Loughran, Kristyne, Quick, Betsy D., and Rabine, Leslie (eds), African-Print Fashion Now! A story of taste, globalization, and style. Los Angeles, CA: Fowler Museum. 160–61.Google Scholar
Hansen, Karen Tranberg. 2019a. ‘Chiluba’s trunks: consumption, excess and the body politic in Zambia’ in Posel, Deborah and Van Wyk, Ilana (eds), Conspicuous Consumption in Africa. Johannesburg: Wits University Press. 96–111.Google Scholar
Hansen, Karen Tranberg. 2019b. ‘“Not African enough?” Global dynamics and local contestations over dress practice and fashion design in Zambia’, ZoneModa Journal 9(2): 1–15.Google Scholar
Hansen, Karen Tranberg. 2020. ‘“Our Dress”: chitenge as Zambia’s national fabric’ in Jenss, Heike and Hofmann, Viola (eds), Fashion and materiality: cultural practices and global contexts. London: Bloomsbury. 140–56.Google Scholar
Hansen, Karen Tranberg. 2023. ‘Colonial fashion histories’ in Breward, Christopher, Lemire, Beverly, and Riello, Giorgio (eds), Cambridge Global History of Fashion, vol. 2. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.Google Scholar
Hansen, Karen Tranberg, and Madison, Soyini D. (eds). 2013. African Dress: fashion, agency, performance. London: Bloomsbury.Google Scholar
Haynes, Naomi. 2019. ‘The benefit of the doubt: on the relationship between doubt and power’, Anthropological Quarterly 92(1): 35–57.Google Scholar
Heath, Deborah. 1992. ‘Fashion, anti-fashion, and heteroglossia in urban Senegal’. American Ethnologist 19(1): 19–33.Google Scholar
Henderson, Ian. 1975. ‘Early African leadership: the Copperbelt disturbances of 1935 and 1940’, Journal of Southern African Studies 2(1): 83–97.Google Scholar
Hendrickson, Hildi. 1996. ‘Introduction’ in Hendrickson, Hildi (ed.), Clothing and Difference: embodied identities in colonial and postcolonial Africa. Durham, NC: Duke University Press. 1–16.Google Scholar
Higginson, John. 1989. A Working Class in the Making: Belgian colonial labor policy and the African mine worker, 1907–1951. Madison: University of Wisconsin Press.Google Scholar
Hobsbawm, Eric, and Ranger, Terence (eds). 1983. The Invention of Tradition. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.Google Scholar
Ifeka-Moller, Caroline. 1973. ‘“Sitting on a man”: colonialism and the lost political institutions of Igbo women: a reply to Judith van Allen’, Canadian Journal of African Studies 7(2): 317–18.Google Scholar
Innovation Fund Denmark. 2021. ‘Appendix 6, 1112-00007A Circular economy with a focus on plastics and textiles: A 2030 and 2050 roadmap’. https://innovationsfonden.dk/sites/default/files/2021-08/Appendix%206%20_%201112-00007A%20-%20Circular%20economy%20with%20a%20focus%20on%20plastics%20and%20textiles%20A%202030%20%26%202050%20Roadmap.pdf. Accessed 14 December 2021.Google Scholar
Ivaska, Andrew. 2011. Cultured States: youth, gender, and modern style in 1960s Dar es Salaam. Durham, NC: Duke University Press.Google Scholar
Jansen, M. Angela, and Craik, Jennifer (eds). 2016. Modern Fashion Traditions: negotiating tradition and modernity through fashion. London: Bloomsbury.Google Scholar
Jennings, Helen. 2010. New African Fashion. New York: Prestel.Google Scholar
Kallon, Catherine. 2018. ‘Angela Bassett in Mangishi Doll Co. – 2018 American Black Film Festival Honors Awards’, Red Carpet Fashion Awards, 26 February. www.redcarpet-fashionawards.com/2018/02/26/angela-bassett-mangishi-doll-co-2018-american-black-film-festival-honors-awards/. Accessed 19 June 2019.Google Scholar
Kalusa, Walima T. 2013. ‘Consuming manufactured goods and contracting colonial hegemony on the Zambian Copperbelt, 1845–1964’ in Ross, Robert, Hinfelaar, Marja, and Pesa, Iva (eds), The Objects of Life in Central Africa: the history of consumption and social change, 1840–1980. Leiden: Brill. 143–66.Google Scholar
Kalusa, Walima T. 2022. ‘Educated girls, clothes and Christianity: subverting Mabel Shaw’s sartorial agenda on the colonial Zambian Copperbelt’, Journal of Southern African Studies 48(1): 61–80.Google Scholar
Kantorowicz, Ernst H. 1958. The King’s Two Bodies: a study in medieval political theology. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press.Google Scholar
Kasangele, Mwango. 1998. ‘Differentiation among small-scale enterprises: the Zambian clothing industry in Lusaka’ in Spring, Anita and McDade, Barbara E. (eds), African Entrepreneurship: theory and reality. Gainesville: University of Florida Press. 93–106.Google Scholar
Kastner, Kristin. 2019. ‘Fashioning Dakar’s urban society: sartorial code-mixing in Senegal’, Sociologus 69(2): 167–88.Google Scholar
Kaunda, Kenneth. 1962. Zambia Shall be Free: an autobiography. London: Heinemann.Google Scholar
Kitagawa, Katsuhiko. 2006. ‘Japanese competition in the Congo Basin in the 1930s’ in Lantham, A. J. H., Kawakatsa, Heita, and Kitagawa, Katsuhiko (eds), Intra-Asian Trade and the World Market. New York: Routledge. 155–67.Google Scholar
Klopper, Sandra. 2000. ‘Re-dressing the past: Africanisation of sartorial style in contemporary South Africa’ in Brah, Avtar and Coombes, Annie E. (eds), Hybridity and Its Discontents: politics, science, culture. London: Routledge. 216–31.Google Scholar
Konaté, Dior. 2009. ‘Women, clothing, and politics in Senegal in the 1940s–1950s’ in Goggin, Maureen Daly and Tobin, Beth Fowkes (eds), Material Women, 1750–1950: consuming desires and collecting practices. Farnham: Ashgate. 224–43.Google Scholar
Kopytoff, Igor. 1986. ‘The cultural biography of things: commoditization as process’ in Appadurai, Arjun (ed.), The Social Life of Things: commodities in cultural perspective. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. 64–92.Google Scholar
Kriger, Colleen E. 2006. Cloth in West African History. Lanham, MD: Altamira.Google Scholar
Küchler, Susanne, and Miller, Daniel (eds). 2005. Clothing as Material Culture. London: Berg.Google Scholar
Larmer, Miles. 2021. Living for the City: social change and knowledge production in the central African Copperbelt. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.Google Scholar
Laws, Christopher. n.d. ‘Behind the song: Charles Mingus: “Goodbye Pork Pie Hat”’, CulturedArm. https://culturedarm.com/behind-the-song-charles-mingus-goodbye-pork-pie-hat/. Accessed 30 March 2020.Google Scholar
Lee, Ching Kwan. 2017. The Specter of Global China: politics, labor, and foreign investment in Africa. Chicago, IL: University of Chicago Press.Google Scholar
Leeb-du Toit, Juliette. 2017. Ishishweswhe: a history of the indigenization of blueprint in Southern Africa. Pietermartizburg: University of KwaZulu-Natal Press.Google Scholar
Lipovetsky, Gilles. 1994. The Empire of Fashion: dressing modern democracy. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press.Google Scholar
Loughran, Kristyne. 2009. ‘The idea of Africa in European high fashion: global dialogues’, Fashion Theory 13(2): 243–71.Google Scholar
Lutz, Catherine L., and Collins, Jane L.. 1993. Reading National Geographic. Chicago, IL: University of Chicago Press.Google Scholar
Luvaas, Brent, and Eicher, Joanne B. (eds). 2019. The Anthropology of Dress and Fashion: a reader. London: Bloomsbury.Google Scholar
Ma, Boyang. 2020. ‘Becoming mitumba: transnational secondhand clothing trade between China and Kenya’ in Kusimba, Chapurukha M., Zhu, Tiequan, and Kiura, Purity Wakabasi, China and East Africa: ancient ties, contemporary flows. Lanham, MD: Lexington Books. 215–34.Google Scholar
Machado, Pedro. 2009. ‘Awash in a sea of cloth: Gujarat, Africa, and the Western Indian Ocean, 1300–1800’ in Riello, Giorgio and Parthasarathi, Prasannan (eds), The Spinning World: a global history of cotton textiles, 1200–1850. Oxford: Oxford University Press. 161–79.Google Scholar
Machado, Pedro, Fee, Sarah, and Campbell, Gwynn (eds). 2018. Textile Trade, Consumer Cultures, and the Material Worlds of the Indian Ocean: an ocean of cloth. Cham: Palgrave Macmillan.Google Scholar
Magubane, Bernhard. 1971. ‘A critical look at indices used in the study of social change in colonial Africa,’ Current Anthropology 12(4–5): 419–31.Google Scholar
Martin, Phyllis. 1994. ‘Contesting clothes in colonial Brazzaville’, Journal of African History 35(3): 401–26.Google Scholar
Martin, Phyllis. 1995. Leisure and Society in Colonial Brazzaville. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.Google Scholar
Martin, Phyllis. 2004. ‘Afterword’ in Allman, Jean (ed.), Fashioning Africa: power and the politics of dress. Bloomington: Indiana University Press. 227–30.Google Scholar
Marwick, Max. G. 1974. ‘Some labour histories’, appendix B in Helmuth Heisler, Urbanisation and the Government of Migration: the interrelation of urban and rural life in Zambia. New York: St. Martin’s Press. 144–50.Google Scholar
Masquelier, Adeline (ed.). 2005. Dirt, Undress, and Difference: critical perspectives on the body’s surface. Bloomington: Indiana University Press.Google Scholar
Masquelier, Adeline 2013. ‘Forging connections, performing distinctions: youth, dress, and consumption in Niger’ in Hansen, Karen Tranberg and Madison, D. Soyini (eds), African Dress: fashion, agency, performance. London: Bloomsbury. 138–52.Google Scholar
Matongo, Albert B. K. 1992. ‘Popular culture in a colonial society: another look at Beni and Kalela dances on the Copperbelt, 1930–64’ in Chipungu, Samuel N. (ed.), Guardians of Their Time: experiences of Zambians under colonial rule, 1890–1964. London: Macmillan. 180–212.Google Scholar
Mauss, Marcel. 1973. ‘Techniques of the body’, Economy and Society 2(1): 70–87. First published 1935 as ‘Les techniques du corps’, Journal de Psychologie 32(3–4): 271–93.Google Scholar
Maynard, Margaret. 2004. Dress and Globalisation. Manchester: Manchester University Press.Google Scholar
Mazrui, Ali A. 1968. ‘Miniskirts and political puritanism’, Africa Report. October 9–12.Google Scholar
Mazrui, Ali A. 1969. ‘On revolution and nakedness’ in Violence and Thought: essays on social tensions in Africa. London: Longmans. 281–305.Google Scholar
Mbembe, Achille. 2001. On the Postcolony. Berkeley: University of California Press.Google Scholar
McClintock, Anne. 1995. Imperial Leather: race, gender, and sexuality in the colonial context. New York: Routledge.Google Scholar
Miller, Daniel. 1987. Material Culture and Mass Consumption. Oxford: Blackwell.Google Scholar
Miller, Daniel. 1994. Modernity – An Ethnographic Approach: dualism and mass consumption in Trinidad. Oxford: Berg.Google Scholar
Miller, Daniel. (ed.). 1998. Material Cultures: why some things matter. Chicago, IL: University of Chicago Press.Google Scholar
Miller, Daniel. 2005. ‘Introduction’ in Küchler, Susanne and Miller, Daniel (eds), Clothing as Material Culture. Oxford: Berg. 1–20.Google Scholar
Miller, Daniel. 2010. ‘Clothing: why material culture is not superficial’ in Daniel Miller, Stuff. Cambridge: Polity. 12–41.Google Scholar
Miller, Dorothy, Nel, Etienne, and Hampwaye, Godfrey. 2008. ‘Malls in Zambia: racialised retail expansion and South African foreign investors in Zambia’, African Sociological Reiew 12(1): 35–54.Google Scholar
Mills, C. Wright. 1953. ‘Introduction’ to the Mentor edition, in Thorstein Veblen, The Theory of the Leisure Class: an economic study of institutions. New York: A Mentor Book, published by the New American Library. i–xix.Google Scholar
Minter, Adam. 2019. Secondhand: travels in the new global garage sale. London: Bloomsbury.Google Scholar
Mitchell, J. Clyde. 1956. ‘The Kalela Dance’, Rhodes-Livingstone Papers, no. 27.Google Scholar
Mokwena, Lebogang. 2020. ‘Along the museological grain: an exploration of the (geo)political inheritance in Isishweshwe Story: Material Women’, African Studies 79(3): 305–22.Google Scholar
Money, Duncan. 2021. ‘Rebalancing the historical narrative or perpetuating bias? Digitizing the archives of the Mineworkers’ Union of Zambia’, History in Africa. First view, 3 May: 1–22.Google Scholar
Moore, Henrietta L. 1994. A Passion for Difference: essays in anthropology and gender. Bloomington: Indiana University Press.Google Scholar
Moore, R. J. B. 1948. These African Copper Miners: a study of the industrial revolution in Northern Rhodesia, with principal reference to the copper mining industry. Revised, with appendices by A. Sandilans. London: Livingstone Press.Google Scholar
Moorman, Marissa. 2004. ‘Putting on a pano and dancing like our grandparents: nation and dress in late colonial Luanda’ in Allman, Jean (ed.), Fashioning Africa: power and the politics of dress. Bloomington: Indiana University Press. 84–103.Google Scholar
Morrow, Sean. 1989. ‘“On the side of the Robbed”: R. J. B. Moore, missionary on the Copperbelt, 1933–1941’, Journal of Religion in Africa 19(3): 244–63.Google Scholar
Moyer, Eileen. 2003. ‘Keeping up appearances: fashion and function among Dar es Salaam street youth’, Etnofoor 16(2): 88–105.Google Scholar
Musambachime, Mwelva C. (ed.). 1996. The Oral History of Mansa, Zambia. Lusaka: University of Zambia Printer.Google Scholar
Mustafa, Hudita N. 2006. ‘La mode dakaroise: elegance, transnationalism and an African fashion capital’ in Breward, Christopher and Gilbert, David (eds), Fashion’s World Cities. Oxford: Berg. 177–99.Google Scholar
Mwanga, Vernon J. 1982. An Extraordinary Life. Lusaka: Multimedia Publications.Google Scholar
National Assembly of Zambia. 2014. Daily Parliamentary Debates, 1 July. www.parliament.gov.zm/node/550. Accessed 6 October 2020.Google Scholar
Ndlovu, Nosimilo. 2008. ‘Bum deal for Zulu maidens’, Mail & Guardian (South Africa), 29 August–4 September, p. 13.Google Scholar
Newell, Sasha. 2012. The Modernity Bluff: crime, consumption, and citizenship in Cote d’Ivoire. Chicago, IL: University of Chicago Press.Google Scholar
Ngolet, Francois. 2000. ‘Ideological manipulation and political longevity: the power of Omar Bongo in Gabon since 1967’, African Studies Review 43(2): 55–71.Google Scholar
Ngoma, Samuel. 1995. ‘Wanted: quality clothing in Zambia’, Times of Zambia, 26 August, p. 4.Google Scholar
Norris, Lucy. 2003. ‘The Life-Cycle of Clothing: Recycling and the Efficacy of Materiality in Contemporary Urban India’. PhD thesis, University College London.Google Scholar
Norris, Lucy. 2010. Recycling Indian Clothing: global contexts of use and value. Bloomington: Indiana University Press.Google Scholar
Nuttall, Sarah. 2004. ‘Stylizing the self: the Y generation in Rosebank, Johannesburg’, Public Culture 16(3): 430–52.Google Scholar
Nwafor, Okechukwu C. 2012. ‘Of mutuality and copying: fashioning Aso Ebi through fashion magazines in Lagos’, Fashion Theory 16(4): 493–520.Google Scholar
Nwafor, Okechukwu C. 2021. Aso Ebi: dress, fashion, visual culture, and urban cosmopolitanism in West Africa. Ann Arbor: University of Michigan Press.Google Scholar
Nyaywa, Rosemary Mpuku. 1998. ‘Mama “UNIP” Julia “Chikamoneka”: the fearless “Mad African Girl”’ in Nalumango, Mbuyu and Sifuniso, Monde (eds), Woman Power in Politics. Lusaka: Zambia National Women’s Lobby Group and Zambian Women Writers Association. 18–37.Google Scholar
Ogunyankin, Grace Adeniyi. 2016. ‘“These girls’ fashion is sick!”: An African City and the geography of sartorial worldliness’, Feminist Africa 21: 37–51.Google Scholar
Olivier de Sardan, J. E. 1999. ‘A moral economy of corruption in Africa?’, Journal of Modern African Studies 37(1): 25–52.Google Scholar
Osiebe, Garhe. 2020 ‘Fashion in parliament: performances from Nigeria to South Africa’, Leeds African Studies Bulletin 81: 1–52.Google Scholar
Osseo-Asare, Abena Dove. 2021. ‘Kwame Nkrumah’s suits: sartorial politics in Ghana at Independence’, Fashion Theory 25(5): 597–632.Google Scholar
Parkins, Wendy. 2002. ‘Introduction: (ad)dressing citizens’ in Fashioning the Body Politic: dress, gender, citizenship. New York: Berg. 1–17.Google Scholar
Parkins, Wendy. (ed.). 2002. Fashioning the Body Politic: dress, gender, citizenship. New York: Berg.Google Scholar
Parpart, Jane I. 1994. ‘“Where is your mother”? Gender, urban marriage, and colonial discourse on the Zambian Copperbelt, 1924–1945’, International Journal of African Historical Studies 27(2): 241–71.Google Scholar
Perani, Judith, and Wolff, Norma H.. 1999. Cloth, Dress and Art Patronage in Africa. Oxford: Berg.Google Scholar
Pesa, Iva. 2019. Roads through Mwinilunga: a history of social change in northwest Zambia. Leiden: Brill.Google Scholar
Petrusich, Anne. 2017. ‘The magnificent cross-cultural recordings of Kenya’s Kipsigis tribe’, New Yorker, February 16. www.newyorker.com/culture/cultural-comment/the-magnificent-cross-cultural-recordings-of-kenyas-kipsigis-tribe.Google Scholar
Picton, John. 1995. ‘Introduction. Technology, tradition and lurex: the art of textiles in Africa’ in Picton, John (ed.), Technology, Tradition and Lurex: the Art of Textiles in Africa. Barbican Art Gallery. London: Lund Humphries Publishers. 9–31.Google Scholar
Picton, John, and Mack, John. 1989. African Textiles. 2nd edition. London: British Museum Publications.Google Scholar
Pool, Hannah Azieb (ed.). 2016. Fashion Cities Africa. Bristol: Intellect.Google Scholar
Posel, Deborah. 2010. ‘Races to consume: revisiting South Africa’s history of race, consumption and the struggle for freedom’, Ethnic and Racial Studies 33(2): 157–75.Google Scholar
Powdermaker, Hortense. 1956. ‘Social change through imagery and values of teen-age Africans in Northern Rhodesia’, American Anthropologist 58(5): 783–813.Google Scholar
Powdermaker, Hortense. 1962. Copper Town: changing Africa. The human condition on the Rhodesian Copperbelt. New York: Harper and Row.Google Scholar
Preminger, Evan. 2009. ‘Judge dismisses charges in Zambian article controversy’, Cornell Daily Sun, 29 September.Google Scholar
Presholdt, Jeremy. 2008. Domesticating the World: African consumerism and the genealogies of globalization. Berkeley: University of California Press.Google Scholar
Rabine, Leslie W. 1997a. ‘Dressing up in Dakar’, L’Esprit Créateur 37(1): 84–108.Google Scholar
Rabine, Leslie W. 1997b. ‘Not a mere ornament: tradition, modernity, and colonialism in Kenyan and Western clothing’, Fashion Theory 1(2): 145–68.Google Scholar
Rabine, Leslie W. 2002. The Global Circulation of African Fashion. Oxford: Berg.Google Scholar
Rabine, Leslie W. 2010. ‘Fashionable photography in mid-twentieth century Senegal’, Fashion Theory 14 (3): 305–30.Google Scholar
Renne, Elisha P. 1995. Cloth That Does Not Die: the meaning of cloth in Bunu social life. Seattle: University of Washington Press.Google Scholar
Renne, Elisha P. 2015. ‘The changing contexts of Chinese-Nigerian textile production and trade, 1990–2015’, Textile 13(3): 212–33.Google Scholar
Renne, Elisha P., and Maiwaida, Salihu (eds). 2020. Textile Ascendancies: aesthetics, production and trade in northern Nigeria. Ann Arbor: University of Michigan PressGoogle Scholar
Republic of Zambia. 1971. House of Chiefs Debates. 28–29 September. Lusaka: Government Printer.Google Scholar
Reynolds, Pamela. 2019. The Uncaring, Intricate World: a field diary, Zambezi Valley, 1984–1985. Durham, NC: Duke University PressGoogle Scholar
Richards, Audrey I. [1939] 1969. Land, Labour, and Diet in Northern Rhodesia. Oxford: Oxford University Press.Google Scholar
Richards, Audrey I. [1956] 2021. Chisungu: a girls’ initiation ceremony among the Bemba of Northern Rhodesia. London: Routledge.Google Scholar
Richards, Christopher L. 2022. Cosmopolitanism and Women’s Fashion in Ghana: history, artistry and nationalist inspirations. London: Routledge.Google Scholar
Roberts, Andrew D. 1976. A History of Zambia. London: Heinemann.Google Scholar
Robertson, A. F. 2001. Greed: gut feelings, growth, and history. Cambridge: Polity Press.Google Scholar
Roces, Mina, and Edwards, Louise (eds). 2007. The Politics of Dress in Asia and the Americas. Eastbourne: Sussex Academic Press.Google Scholar
Rodgers, Daniel T. 2013. ‘Cultures in motion: an introduction’ in Rodgers, Daniel T., Raman, Bhavani, and Reimitz, Helmuth (eds), Cultures in Motion. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press. 1–19.Google Scholar
Ross, Doran (ed.). 1998. Wrapped in Pride: Ghanaian kente and African American identity. Los Angeles, CA: Fowler Museum.Google Scholar
Ross, Robert. 2008. Clothing: a global history. Cambridge: Polity Press.Google Scholar
Ross, Robert, Hinfelaar, Marja, and Pesa, Iva (eds). 2013. The Objects of Life in Central Africa: the history of consumption and social change, 1840–1980. Leiden: Brill.Google Scholar
Rønde, Jeppe. 2005. The Swenkas. Copenhagen: Danish Film Center. www.dfi.dk/viden-om-film/filmdatabasen/film/swenkas. Accessed 15 December 2021.Google Scholar
Röschenthaler, Ute. 2015. ‘Dressed in photographs: between uniformization, self-enhancement and the promotion of stars and leaders in Bamako’, Africa 85(4): 696–720.Google Scholar
Rovine, Victoria L. 2001. Bogolan: shaping culture through cloth in contemporary Mali. Washington, DC: Smithsonian Institution Press.Google Scholar
Rovine, Victoria L. 2009. ‘Colonialism’s clothing: Africa, France, and the deployment of fashion’, Design Issues 25(3): 44–61.Google Scholar
Rovine, Victoria L. 2015. African Fashion, Global Style: histories, innovations, and ideas you can wear. Bloomington: Indiana University Press.Google Scholar
Sahlins, Marshall D. 1963. ‘Poor man, rich man, big-man, chief: political types in Melanesia and Polynesia’, Comparative Studies in Society and History 5(3): 285–303.Google Scholar
Sakala, Richard. 2016. A President Betrayed: serial murder by slander. Lusaka: Sentor Publishers.Google Scholar
Salazar-Sutil, Nicolas. 2009. ‘What’s in your wardrobe, Mr. president? A study in political dress’, International Journal of Media and Culture 7(2): 63–78.Google Scholar
Sampa, Annie J. 1996. ‘Unequal access to power: policy making and the advancement of women in Zambian development’ in Sichone, Owen and Chikula, Bornwell C. (eds), Democracy in Zambia: challenges for the Third Republic. Harare: Sapes Books. 197–221.Google Scholar
Scheld, Suzanne. 2007. ‘Youth cosmopolitanism: clothing, the city and globalization in Dakar, Senegal’, City & Society 19(2): 232–53.Google Scholar
Scheld, Suzanne, and Siu, Lydia. 2013. ‘Veiled racism in the street economy of Dakar’s Chinatown in Senegal’ in Hansen, Karen Tranberg, Little, Walter E., and Lynne Milgram, B. (eds), Street Economies in the Urban Global South. Santa Fe, NM: SAR Press. 157–79.Google Scholar
Schumaker, Lyn. 2001. Africanizing Anthropology: fieldwork, networks, and the making of cultural knowledge in Central Africa. Durham, NC: Duke University Press.Google Scholar
Schuster, Ilsa G. 1979. New Women of Lusaka. Palo Alto, CA: Mayfield.Google Scholar
Seleti, Yona Ngalaba. 1992. ‘Entrepreneurship in colonial Zambia’ in Chipungu, Samuel N. (ed.), Guardians of Their Time: experiences of Zambians under colonial rule, 1890–1964. London: Macmillan. 147–79.Google Scholar
Shaw, Jacqueline. [2011] 2014. Africa Fashion Guide. London: Jacaranda.Google Scholar
Simbao, Ruth. 2010. ‘Dialectics of dance and dress: the performative negotiation of Soli girl initiates (Moye) in Zambia’, African Arts 43(3): 64–85.Google Scholar
Sizaire, Violaine, Mwembu, Dibwe dia, and Jewsiewicki, Bogumil (eds). 2002. Femmes – Mode – Musiques: memoires de Lubumbashi. Paris: L’Harmattan.Google Scholar
Skjold, Else. 2016. ‘Biographical wardrobes: a temporal view on dress practice’. Fashion Practice 8(1): 135–48.Google Scholar
Smith, Alexander McCall. 1998. The No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency. New York: Random House.Google Scholar
Smith, Daniel Jordan. 2007. Everyday Deception and Popular Discontent in Nigeria. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press.Google Scholar
Springford, James Bardez. 2010. ‘Generating Values: Chinese Clothes in Lusaka’. MA thesis, University of Amsterdam.Google Scholar
Stambach, Amy. 1999. ‘Curl up and dye: civil society and the fashion-minded citizen’ in Comaroff, John L. and Comaroff, Jean (eds), Civil Society and the Political Imagination in Africa. Chicago, IL: University of Chicago Press. 251–66.Google Scholar
Steiner, Christopher. 1985. ‘Another image of Africa: toward an ethnohistory of European cloth marketed in West Africa, 1873–1960’, Ethnohistory 32(2): 91–110.Google Scholar
Stien, Kari Mjaavatn. 2013. ‘Kamwala Shopping World: Competition and Cooperation among Zambian and Chinese Traders in Lusaka’. MA thesis, Norwegian University of Science and Technology.Google Scholar
Susser, Ida, and Schneider, Jane. 2003. ‘Wounded cities: destruction and reconstruction in a globalized world’ in Schneider, Jane and Susser, Ida (eds), Wounded Cities: destruction and reconstruction in a globalized world. Oxford: Berg. 1–23.Google Scholar
Sylvanus, Nina. 2016. Patterns in Circulation: cloth, gender, and materiality in West Africa. Chicago, IL: University of Chicago Press.Google Scholar
Sylvanus, Nina. 2017. ‘Real fakes: brands, labels and China in West Africa’ in Gott, Suzanne, Loughran, Kristyne, Quick, Betsy D., and Rabine, Leslie (eds), African-Print Fashion Now! A story of taste, globalization, and style. Los Angeles, CA: Fowler Museum. 107–13.Google Scholar
Tamale, Sylvia. 2016. ‘“Keep your eyes off my thighs”’: a feminist analysis of Uganda’s “miniskirt law”’, Feminist Africa 21: 83–90.Google Scholar
Tamale, Sylvia. 2017. ‘Nudity, protest, and the law in Uganda’, Feminist Africa 22: 52–86.Google Scholar
Tarlo, Emma.1996. Clothing Matters: dress and identity in India. Chicago, IL: University of Chicago Press.Google Scholar
Thomas, Lynn M. 2020. Beneath the Surface: a transnational history of skin lighteners. Durham, NC: Duke University Press.Google Scholar
Titley, Brian. 2002 [1997]. Dark Age: the political odyssey of emperor Bokassa. Montreal: McGill-Queen’s University Press.Google Scholar
Turner, Terence. 1993 [1979]. ‘The social skin’ in Burroughs, C. B. and Ehrenreich, J. (eds), Reading the Social Body. Iowa City: University of Iowa Press. 15-39.Google Scholar
UNFPA. 2016. ‘Zambia’s young people and the road to 2030’, 12 August. https://zambia.unfpa.org/en/news/zambia%E2%80%99s-young-people-and-road-2030. Accessed 30 November 2021.Google Scholar
van Allen, Judith. 1972. ‘“Sitting on a man”: colonialism and the lost political institutions of Igbo women’, Canadian Journal of African Studies 6(2): 168–81.Google Scholar
van Donge, Jan Kees. 2008. ‘The plundering of Zambian resources by Frederick Chiluba and his friends: a case study of the interaction between national politics and the international drive towards good governance’, African Affairs 108(430): 69–90.Google Scholar
van Onselen, Charles. 2019. The Night Trains: moving Mozambican miners to and from South Africa, circa 1902–1955. Oxford: Oxford University Press.Google Scholar
Vaughan, Megan. 1994. ‘Colonial discourse theory and African history, or has postmodernism passed us by?’, Social Dynamics 20(2): 1–23.Google Scholar
Veblen, Thorstein. [1899] 1953. The Theory of the Leisure Class: an economic study of institutions. New York: A Mentor Book, published by the New American Library.Google Scholar
Velasco, Matthew. 2021. ‘Yves Saint Laurent’s signature looks’, L’Officiel, 1 August. www.lofficielph.com/fashion/yves-saint-laurent-designer-singature-looks-trapeze-suit-safari-jacket. Accessed 11 November 2021.Google Scholar
Vincent, Louise. 2008. ‘Women’s rights get a dressing down: mini skirt attacks in South Africa’, International Journal of the Humanities. Annual Review 6: 11–18.Google Scholar
Vinson, Robert Trent. 2012. The Americans are coming! Dreams of African American liberation in segregationist South Africa. Athens: Ohio University Press.Google Scholar
von Pezold, Johanna, and Driessen, Miriam. 2021. ‘Made in China, fashioned in Africa: ethnic dress in Ethiopia and Mozambique’, Africa 91(2): 317–36.Google Scholar
Webb, Douglas. 1996. ‘The socio-economic impact of HIV/AIDS in Zambia’, SafAIDS News 4(4): 2–10.Google Scholar
Weiner, Annette B., and Schneider, Jane (eds). 1989. Cloth and Human Experience. Washington, DC: Smithsonian Institution Press.Google Scholar
Wilson, Elizabeth. 1987. Adorned in Dreams: fashion and modernity. Berkeley: University of California Press.Google Scholar
Wilson, Godfrey. 1940. ‘Dancing’. 8 February. Longhand notes on dance clubs. University of Cape Town Libraries, Archives and Manuscript Division. Monica and Godfrey Wilson Papers. BC880. E9.9.Google Scholar
Wilson, Godfrey. 1942. ‘An essay on the economics of detribalization in Northern Rhodesia’. Vol. 2. Rhodes-Livingstone Papers 6.Google Scholar
Wilson, Monica. 1940. ‘Dancing’. Typescript notes on frocks. African dance, 2 March. University of Cape Town Libraries, Archives and Manuscript Division. Monica and Godfrey Wilson Papers. BC880. E9.9.Google Scholar
Wipper, Audrey. 1972. ‘African women, fashion, and scapegoating’, Canadian Journal of African Studies 6 (2): 329–49.Google Scholar
Woodward, Sophie. 2005. ‘Looking good: feeling right – aesthetics of the self’ in Küchler, Susanne and Miller, Daniel (eds), Clothing as Material Culture. Oxford: Berg. 21–40.Google Scholar
World Data Atlas. 2020. ‘Zambia’. www.worlddata.info/africa/zambia/index.php.Google Scholar
Wragg, Emma, and Lim, Regina. 2013. ‘Urban visions of the excluded: experiences of globalisation in Lusaka, Zambia’, unpublished paper presented at N-AERUS XIV, Entschede, the Netherlands, 12–14 September.Google Scholar
Wrong, Michela. 2001. In the Footsteps of Mr Kurtz: living on the brink of disaster in the Congo. London: Fourth Estate.Google Scholar

Secondary Sources

New York Times. 2005. ‘Zambia. Investigators seize ex-president’s shoes’, 15 March, A8.Google Scholar
African Listener. 1957a. ‘The well-dressed woman’, Part 1. 63, p. 12.Google Scholar
African Listener. 1957b. ‘The well-dressed woman’, Part 2. 64, p. 9.Google Scholar
Central African Post. 1960. ‘Monckton commission members greeted with banners’, 11 March, pp. 1 and 9.Google Scholar
Central African Post. 1960. ‘Screaming crowd greeting Macleod in Lusaka: nationalists stone at least 15 cars. Chanting, singing, banner-waving’, 28 March, p. 1.Google Scholar
Central African Post. 1960. ‘“Shameful” Action’, letter to the editor from K. Mwila, 1 April.Google Scholar
Chronicle. 1996. ‘Woman divorced for donning mini-skirt’, 5–11 July.Google Scholar
Daily Nation. 2015. ‘FJT family rejects clothing’, 15 July, p. 15.Google Scholar
News from Zambia. 1991. No. 576. 23 July–6 August.Google Scholar
News from Zambia. 2001–2. No. 750. 12 December–16 January.Google Scholar
News from Zambia. 2007. ‘Ex-president Chiluba and others stole £23m’. No. 802, 19 April–18 May.Google Scholar
Post. 1997. ‘Dora Siliya’s minis annoy ZNBC bosses’, 22 May, pp. 1 and 5.Google Scholar
Post. 1997. ‘Dora Siliya’s miniskirt defended’, letter to the editor, 26 May.Google Scholar
Post. 1998. ‘The mini-skirt debate; set good examples for girl child’, letter to the editor, 8 April.Google Scholar
Post. 1998. ‘Luo’s choice of dress; dignified dress’, letter to the editor, 14 April.Google Scholar
Post. 2004. ‘KK’s handkerchief to be auctioned’, 7 October.Google Scholar
Post. 2005. ‘Editorial’. 14 March.Google Scholar
Post. 2005. ‘I am not allergic to colours … govt has exposed my pants – Chiluba’, 15 March, pp. 1 and 4.Google Scholar
Post. 2005. ‘Trendsetters’, 2 December.Google Scholar
Post. 2006. ‘Cheap demagoguery’, 22 September.Google Scholar
Post. 2007. ‘It’s pornography – Longwe’, 2 August, pp. 1 and 4.Google Scholar
Post. 2007. ‘I couldn’t have told them to dress up – Magande’, 3 August, pp. 1 and 4.Google Scholar
Post. 2007. Letters to the editor. 1, 2, 3, 8, and 17 August.Google Scholar
Post. 2008. ‘Retirees block Kanganja from leaving cabinet office’, 2 October.Google Scholar
Post. 2009. ‘Picture of MMD cadre disgusts ZCEA’, 27 July, p. 12.Google Scholar
Post. 2009. Letters to the editor, 27, 28, and 30 July.Google Scholar
Post. 2009. ‘The Chansa Kabwela case: a comedy of errors’, by Muna Ndulo, 27 August.Google Scholar
Post. 2014. ‘Masebo’s hat halts business in the House’, 19 July, p. 1.Google Scholar
Sunday Post. 2007. ‘MMD cadres undressed for love of party’, 7 August, pp. 1 and 4.Google Scholar
Sunday Post. 2008. ‘The bare breasts debate’, Lifestyle Section, 5 October, p. VII.Google Scholar
Sunday Post. 2009. Cover photograph, 26 July, p. 1.Google Scholar
Sunday Times of Zambia. 1993. ‘Is stage porno to blame for rape?’, 12 December.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1971. 14 July.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1981. ‘Modern dresses are tempting’, letter to the editor, sometime between June and September.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1985. ‘Kitchen parties turned into beer dens’, 5 December.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1985. ‘Dress decently’, letter to the editor, 4 February.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1985. ‘Woman in pants’, letter to the editor, 18 July.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1985. ‘See-throughs belittle our culture’, letter to the editor, 23 August.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1986. ‘How can police in pata-pata nab thieves?’ letter to the editor, 26 October.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1987. ‘Poorly dressed teachers’, letter to the editor, 28 April.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1987. ‘Dress up newspaper sellers’, letter to the editor, 6 June.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1993. ‘Five raped after Koffi rhumba show’, 6 December.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1993. ‘Arrests in connection with rampage at Independence Stadium’, 7 December.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1993. ‘Show fracas could have been avoided’, 10 December.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1998. ‘Professor Luo hounded out of parliament’, 4 April.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1998. ‘The mini-skirt debate … and what about executive trousers?’ Feature article, 13 April.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 2008. ‘FTJ’s Geneva-based tailor ordered to repay govt’, 25 December.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 2009. ‘Photos disturbed me, witness tells court’, 9 September.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 2015. ‘Ililonga chronicles his association with Kenneth Kaunda’, 29 May.Google Scholar
Weekend Post. 2006. ‘Miniskirt debate’, 19 February.Google Scholar
Weekly Post. 1994. ‘The stripping of women in short skirts is “violation of human rights”’, 25 March, p. 4.Google Scholar
Weekly Standard. 1994. ‘Fashion conscious ladies in mini-skirts nightmare at Kulima Tower’, 21–27 March.Google Scholar
Zambia Daily Mail. 1971. ‘Kapwepwe, go home’, 30 August, pp. 1 and 7.Google Scholar
Zambia Daily Mail. 1984. ‘Adolescents should not attend kitchen parties’, letter to the editor, 27 November.Google Scholar
Zambia Daily Mail. 1994. ‘Vendors blasted for undressing woman’, 23 March.Google Scholar
Zambia Daily Mail. 1994. ‘Lusaka ruffians taking law into own hands’, 24 March.Google Scholar
Zambia Daily Mail. 1996. ‘Hell descends on Tshala show’, 8 November.Google Scholar
Zambia Daily Mail. 1997. ‘Is wearing minis a sin?’ Feature article, 21 August, p. 4.Google Scholar
Zambia Daily Mail. 1998. ‘Let not bad rituals hijack noble meaning of kitchen parties’, story by Isabel Chimangeni and interviews by Alinedi Ngoma, 11 January, p. 5.Google Scholar
Zambia Daily Mail. 1998. ‘Mini-skirts is food for your eyes’, 11 April.Google Scholar
Zambia Daily Mail. 1998. ‘Speaker shouldn’t have sent Nawakwi home’; ‘Gender focus: is parliament dress code exclusively for female MPs?’, letter to the editor, 24 September.Google Scholar
Zambia Daily Mail. 2017. ‘Lungu tie, hat fetch K500,000’, 1 May.Google Scholar
Zambia Watchdog. 2014. ‘Pimp or president’, 27 December.Google Scholar
Zambia Watchdog. 2015. ‘Photo of the day: Lungu’s pot belly and $3000 suits’, 18 August.Google Scholar
Zambia Weekly. 2015. ‘Bank of Zambia accused of looting’, 5 June, 235(6): 4.Google Scholar
Zambia Weekly. 2016. ‘Lawyer reprimanded for misadvising the BoZ’, 4 November, 296(7): 6.Google Scholar
Zambia Weekly. 2017. ‘Lungu’s tie sells for K320,000’, 5 May, 318(8): 1.Google Scholar
China Economic Net. 2004. ‘Zambian 1st president’s handkerchief to be auctioned’, 5 October.Google Scholar
Pan African News Agency Daily Newswire. 2005. ‘Chiluba claims investigators are bias [sic] against him’, 14 March.Google Scholar
Saturday Argus (South Africa). 2006. ‘Reed dance attracts unwanted voyeurs’, 9 September, p. 12.Google Scholar
L’Uomo Vogue (Italy), 2012. Rebranding Africa (special issue), no. 431.Google Scholar
New York Times. 2005. ‘Zambia. Investigators seize ex-president’s shoes’, 15 March, A8.Google Scholar
African Listener. 1957a. ‘The well-dressed woman’, Part 1. 63, p. 12.Google Scholar
African Listener. 1957b. ‘The well-dressed woman’, Part 2. 64, p. 9.Google Scholar
Central African Post. 1960. ‘Monckton commission members greeted with banners’, 11 March, pp. 1 and 9.Google Scholar
Central African Post. 1960. ‘Screaming crowd greeting Macleod in Lusaka: nationalists stone at least 15 cars. Chanting, singing, banner-waving’, 28 March, p. 1.Google Scholar
Central African Post. 1960. ‘“Shameful” Action’, letter to the editor from K. Mwila, 1 April.Google Scholar
Chronicle. 1996. ‘Woman divorced for donning mini-skirt’, 5–11 July.Google Scholar
Daily Nation. 2015. ‘FJT family rejects clothing’, 15 July, p. 15.Google Scholar
News from Zambia. 1991. No. 576. 23 July–6 August.Google Scholar
News from Zambia. 2001–2. No. 750. 12 December–16 January.Google Scholar
News from Zambia. 2007. ‘Ex-president Chiluba and others stole £23m’. No. 802, 19 April–18 May.Google Scholar
Post. 1997. ‘Dora Siliya’s minis annoy ZNBC bosses’, 22 May, pp. 1 and 5.Google Scholar
Post. 1997. ‘Dora Siliya’s miniskirt defended’, letter to the editor, 26 May.Google Scholar
Post. 1998. ‘The mini-skirt debate; set good examples for girl child’, letter to the editor, 8 April.Google Scholar
Post. 1998. ‘Luo’s choice of dress; dignified dress’, letter to the editor, 14 April.Google Scholar
Post. 2004. ‘KK’s handkerchief to be auctioned’, 7 October.Google Scholar
Post. 2005. ‘Editorial’. 14 March.Google Scholar
Post. 2005. ‘I am not allergic to colours … govt has exposed my pants – Chiluba’, 15 March, pp. 1 and 4.Google Scholar
Post. 2005. ‘Trendsetters’, 2 December.Google Scholar
Post. 2006. ‘Cheap demagoguery’, 22 September.Google Scholar
Post. 2007. ‘It’s pornography – Longwe’, 2 August, pp. 1 and 4.Google Scholar
Post. 2007. ‘I couldn’t have told them to dress up – Magande’, 3 August, pp. 1 and 4.Google Scholar
Post. 2007. Letters to the editor. 1, 2, 3, 8, and 17 August.Google Scholar
Post. 2008. ‘Retirees block Kanganja from leaving cabinet office’, 2 October.Google Scholar
Post. 2009. ‘Picture of MMD cadre disgusts ZCEA’, 27 July, p. 12.Google Scholar
Post. 2009. Letters to the editor, 27, 28, and 30 July.Google Scholar
Post. 2009. ‘The Chansa Kabwela case: a comedy of errors’, by Muna Ndulo, 27 August.Google Scholar
Post. 2014. ‘Masebo’s hat halts business in the House’, 19 July, p. 1.Google Scholar
Sunday Post. 2007. ‘MMD cadres undressed for love of party’, 7 August, pp. 1 and 4.Google Scholar
Sunday Post. 2008. ‘The bare breasts debate’, Lifestyle Section, 5 October, p. VII.Google Scholar
Sunday Post. 2009. Cover photograph, 26 July, p. 1.Google Scholar
Sunday Times of Zambia. 1993. ‘Is stage porno to blame for rape?’, 12 December.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1971. 14 July.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1981. ‘Modern dresses are tempting’, letter to the editor, sometime between June and September.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1985. ‘Kitchen parties turned into beer dens’, 5 December.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1985. ‘Dress decently’, letter to the editor, 4 February.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1985. ‘Woman in pants’, letter to the editor, 18 July.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1985. ‘See-throughs belittle our culture’, letter to the editor, 23 August.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1986. ‘How can police in pata-pata nab thieves?’ letter to the editor, 26 October.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1987. ‘Poorly dressed teachers’, letter to the editor, 28 April.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1987. ‘Dress up newspaper sellers’, letter to the editor, 6 June.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1993. ‘Five raped after Koffi rhumba show’, 6 December.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1993. ‘Arrests in connection with rampage at Independence Stadium’, 7 December.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1993. ‘Show fracas could have been avoided’, 10 December.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1998. ‘Professor Luo hounded out of parliament’, 4 April.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 1998. ‘The mini-skirt debate … and what about executive trousers?’ Feature article, 13 April.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 2008. ‘FTJ’s Geneva-based tailor ordered to repay govt’, 25 December.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 2009. ‘Photos disturbed me, witness tells court’, 9 September.Google Scholar
Times of Zambia. 2015. ‘Ililonga chronicles his association with Kenneth Kaunda’, 29 May.Google Scholar
Weekend Post. 2006. ‘Miniskirt debate’, 19 February.Google Scholar
Weekly Post. 1994. ‘The stripping of women in short skirts is “violation of human rights”’, 25 March, p. 4.Google Scholar
Weekly Standard. 1994. ‘Fashion conscious ladies in mini-skirts nightmare at Kulima Tower’, 21–27 March.Google Scholar
Zambia Daily Mail. 1971. ‘Kapwepwe, go home’, 30 August, pp. 1 and 7.Google Scholar
Zambia Daily Mail. 1984. ‘Adolescents should not attend kitchen parties’, letter to the editor, 27 November.Google Scholar
Zambia Daily Mail. 1994. ‘Vendors blasted for undressing woman’, 23 March.Google Scholar
Zambia Daily Mail. 1994. ‘Lusaka ruffians taking law into own hands’, 24 March.Google Scholar
Zambia Daily Mail. 1996. ‘Hell descends on Tshala show’, 8 November.Google Scholar
Zambia Daily Mail. 1997. ‘Is wearing minis a sin?’ Feature article, 21 August, p. 4.Google Scholar
Zambia Daily Mail. 1998. ‘Let not bad rituals hijack noble meaning of kitchen parties’, story by Isabel Chimangeni and interviews by Alinedi Ngoma, 11 January, p. 5.Google Scholar
Zambia Daily Mail. 1998. ‘Mini-skirts is food for your eyes’, 11 April.Google Scholar
Zambia Daily Mail. 1998. ‘Speaker shouldn’t have sent Nawakwi home’; ‘Gender focus: is parliament dress code exclusively for female MPs?’, letter to the editor, 24 September.Google Scholar
Zambia Daily Mail. 2017. ‘Lungu tie, hat fetch K500,000’, 1 May.Google Scholar
Zambia Watchdog. 2014. ‘Pimp or president’, 27 December.Google Scholar
Zambia Watchdog. 2015. ‘Photo of the day: Lungu’s pot belly and $3000 suits’, 18 August.Google Scholar
Zambia Weekly. 2015. ‘Bank of Zambia accused of looting’, 5 June, 235(6): 4.Google Scholar
Zambia Weekly. 2016. ‘Lawyer reprimanded for misadvising the BoZ’, 4 November, 296(7): 6.Google Scholar
Zambia Weekly. 2017. ‘Lungu’s tie sells for K320,000’, 5 May, 318(8): 1.Google Scholar
China Economic Net. 2004. ‘Zambian 1st president’s handkerchief to be auctioned’, 5 October.Google Scholar
Pan African News Agency Daily Newswire. 2005. ‘Chiluba claims investigators are bias [sic] against him’, 14 March.Google Scholar
Saturday Argus (South Africa). 2006. ‘Reed dance attracts unwanted voyeurs’, 9 September, p. 12.Google Scholar
L’Uomo Vogue (Italy), 2012. Rebranding Africa (special issue), no. 431.Google Scholar

Save book to Kindle

To save this book to your Kindle, first ensure [email protected] is added to your Approved Personal Document E-mail List under your Personal Document Settings on the Manage Your Content and Devices page of your Amazon account. Then enter the ‘name’ part of your Kindle email address below. Find out more about saving to your Kindle.

Note you can select to save to either the @free.kindle.com or @kindle.com variations. ‘@free.kindle.com’ emails are free but can only be saved to your device when it is connected to wi-fi. ‘@kindle.com’ emails can be delivered even when you are not connected to wi-fi, but note that service fees apply.

Find out more about the Kindle Personal Document Service.

  • References
  • Karen Tranberg Hansen, Northwestern University, Illinois
  • Book: Dress Cultures in Zambia
  • Online publication: 20 April 2023
  • Chapter DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/9781009350310.015
Available formats
×

Save book to Dropbox

To save content items to your account, please confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you use this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your account. Find out more about saving content to Dropbox.

  • References
  • Karen Tranberg Hansen, Northwestern University, Illinois
  • Book: Dress Cultures in Zambia
  • Online publication: 20 April 2023
  • Chapter DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/9781009350310.015
Available formats
×

Save book to Google Drive

To save content items to your account, please confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you use this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your account. Find out more about saving content to Google Drive.

  • References
  • Karen Tranberg Hansen, Northwestern University, Illinois
  • Book: Dress Cultures in Zambia
  • Online publication: 20 April 2023
  • Chapter DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/9781009350310.015
Available formats
×