Indigenous goats of Central Asia and Afghanistan produce cashmere, the warm undercoat grown annually to protect them from cold winters. Cashmere is appreciated in luxury markets, but there are no efforts to conserve these goats. Commercial assessments of their fibre quality have recently been undertaken. Poorer villagers in the most climatically difficult remote desert and high altitude regions are particularly dependent on raising goats. Villagers in Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan started selling raw cashmere mainly to Chinese traders in the 1990s. Afghan producers have been selling cashmere for a longer time. In comparison with China and Mongolia, Central Asian and Afghan producers sell their cashmere unsorted and at relatively low prices. Traders do not offer producers differentiated prices according to quality, but world commercial prices are highly sensitive to quality. Producers thus lose potential value. Summaries are given of tests on the quality of cashmere from samples of 1 592 goats in 67 districts and 221 villages from 2003 to 2008. There are cashmere goats in these sampled districts which produce the finest qualities of cashmere typical of Chinese and Mongolian cashmere. There is impetus to increase the production, commercial value and income for producers from cashmere produced by Central Asian goats.

The effects of nutrition on patterns of live-weight change, hair follicle activity, moult, hormone profiles and associated activities of monodeiodinase enzyme types II and III (MDII and MDIII) in cashmere goats were investigated. From 1 week before the winter solstice (mid December), one group of 15 animals was given a ration designed to provide 2·0 × live weight maintenance requirements (high; H) while a second, similar, group was given 0·8 × live weight maintenance requirements (low; L). After approximately 3 months, L animals had significantly lower mean live weights (P<0·01) than H animals. This was associated with lower (P<0·05) overall mean hair follicle activity in L than H animals during the March to May period and a lower overall mean moult score during March and April in L animals (P<0·01) but a similar mean date of moult onset. Mean concentrations of all of the hormones measured exhibited significant changes (P<0·01) with date of sampling. Overall mean concentrations of insulin, tri-iodothyronine and thyroxine did not differ with treatment but, compared with L animals, H animals exhibited higher mean concentrations of prolactin in April and May (P<0·05) and of insulin-like growth factor-1 in December and January (P<0·001). Rates of activity of MDII and MDIII in skin differed with date (P<0·001) but were not significantly affected by nutritional treatment. The MDIII/MDII ratio differed (P=0·05) with month but was significantly higher (P<0·05) in L than H animals in January, only. It is concluded that the reduction in hair follicle activity and the slower onset of moult associated with reduced nutrition were unlikely to be controlled, directly, by differences in activities of MDII or MDIII in skin tissue.

The Iceland goat is a rare, isolated breed of Nordic origin dating back to the settlement of Iceland over 1 100 years ago. There is no evidence of goat imports since that time and the only goats which have been exported were a group of six included in a cashmere breeding programme in Scotland in 1986. Historical evidence and records from 1703 onwards, show that goats have been kept in all parts of the country, albeit in small numbers. This goat population was on the verge of extinction a century ago and reached a maximum of nearly 3 000 in 1930. At present there are 370 winterfed goats in 47 flocks located across the country. The goats are mainly kept as pets and are highly inbred. Efforts are being made to market the meat in a few food stores and restaurants, the skins for book binding and the milk as a health product, on a small scale. The cashmere, however, has so far not been harvested for marketing. A state conservation grant, available for individually recorded goats since the late 1960s, has contributed to the maintenance of this endangered breed. Generally, goats are found to be susceptible to the same diseases as sheep in Iceland. However, scrapie has never been diagnosed in goats.

The aim of this study was to evaluate secondary fibre shedding in relation to seasonal hormonal changes in young cashmere-bearing goats reared in southern Italy. We used 14 cashmere-bearing kids, seven males and seven females, of a Scottish breed-population of goats specialized in cashmere production. Monthly, a hair patch of 4 cm2 was clipped from both left and right mid sides alternately and cashmere length and its yield were determined. Blood samples were taken every 2 weeks and plasma was assayed for prolactin (PRL), growth hormone (GH), tri-iodothyronine (T3), thyroxine (T4), progesterone and testosterone. With the same frequency, animals were monitored for onset of moult. Our data indicate that in young cashmere goats at their first moult, secondary fibre shedding is a seasonal event that is strictly related to changes in photoperiod and that PRL has a pivotal rôle in regulating this phenomenon. This corresponds with findings in adults. The observation that both thyroid hormones and sex steroids varied seasonally suggests that they are involved in the regulation of the moult cycle, but their precise rôle remains to be elucidated. Our data also indicate that GH seems to be implicated in the control of the moult cycle. The finding that maximal fibre shedding occurred earlier in males than females could be ascribed to differences in GH levels and to the earlier increase in plasma concentration of PRL observed in males.

The aim of this experiment was to determine the mechanisms involved in changes in the production of cashmere as a consequence of genetic selection. Skin follicle parameters and pattern of cashmere growth were compared in two selected lines of Scottish cashmere goats and a randomly bred control line. One line, the fine line, had been selected for low fibre diameter, and this had resulted in lower fibre diameter, but the weight of cashmere produced had also been reduced. Selection for fibre quantity and quality to give maximum financial return (the value line) had increased cashmere weight without a significant increase in cashmere diameter.

Skin follicle density and the ratio of secondary to primary follicles (S/P ratio) were measured at 5 months of age in 25 female kids from each line. The density of follicles in the value line was greater (P · 0.05) than that in the fine or control lines (means were 21·8, 19·8 and 20·1 follicles per mm2 respectively, s.e.d. 0.73). S/P ratio increased (P · 0.001) from control to fine to value lines (means were 6.5, 7.7 and 8.4 respectively, s.e.d. = 0.30).

The rate of cashmere growth (length), peak cashmere length, the duration of the cashmere growing period and dates of initiation and cessation of growth were measured in the same 25 goats from each line between 2 and 3 years of age. These traits were estimated from the regression of measurements of staple length taken at approximately 6-weekly intervals from the start of the growing period until peak staple length was reached. Measurements were made on the shoulder, mid side and hip. There was no difference in cashmere growth rate between the selection lines (average 0·29 (s.e. 0.006) mm/day). Cashmere growth started earliest in the value line and latest in the fine line but the date of cessation of growth was not different. This affected the duration of the growing period which was 183, 163 and 214 days (s.e.d. 9.6, P · 0.001) for the control, fine and value lines respectively. Peak staple length of cashmere was longest in the value line.

Increased weight of cashmere in the value line was brought about through an increase in the number of secondary follicles and by an increase in the length of cashmere due to an increase in the duration of the growing period.

This paper investigates the genetic control of the resistance of goats to nematode parasites, and relationships between resistance and production traits. The data set comprised faecal egg counts (FECs) measured on 830 naturally challenged (predominant species Teladorsagia circumcincta), crossbred cashmere-producing goats over 5 years (1993-1997) and production traits (fibre traits and live weight) on 3100 goats from the same population in Scotland, over 11 years (1987-1997). Egg counts comprised repeated measurements (4 to 11) taken at 12 to 18 months of age and production traits, i.e. live weight and fibre traits, were measured at approximately 5 months of age. The goats for which FECs were available were subdivided into a line selected for decreased FECs, using the geometric mean FEC across the measurement period and goats not selected on the basis of FECs, acting as controls. The selected line had significantly lower FECs, compared with the control, in 4 out of 5 years (back transformed average proportional difference of 0·23). The heritability of a single FEC measurement (after cubic root transformation) was 0·17 and the heritability of the mean FEC was 0·32. The heritabilities of the fibre traits were moderate to high with the majority in excess of 0·5. The heritability of live weight was 0·22. Genetic correlations between FECs and production traits were slightly positive but not significantly different from zero. Phenotypic and environmental correlations were very close to zero with the environmental correlations always being negative. It is concluded that selection for reduced FEC is possible for goats. Benefits of such selection will be seen when animals are kept for more than 1 year of productive life.

The effect of plane of nutrition on the timing of the moult in cashmere goats was investigated. Three groups of mature does were individually offered food to supply 0·8 (L, no. = 14), 1·2 (M, no. = 14) or 20 (H, no. = 13) times their estimated maintenance energy requirements from mid December until mid May. Two other groups of goats which were shorn in mid January, were offered 1·2 times maintenance requirements from mid December until mid March when food levels were increased to either 1·6 M (SL, no. = 6) or ad libitum (SAL, no. = 6). In mid May mean live weights for treatments L, M, H, SL and SAL were 36·0, 41·5, 46·9, 33·0 and 43·1 kg (average s.e.d. = 2·27, P < 0·001).

The pattern of moult was described by changes in a subjectively assessed moult score, the proportion of follicles with brushes and staple length. The loss of brushes, indicating the start of the moult, began from the primary follicles on days 143, 131, 76, 150 and 129 (average s.e.d. = 13·5, P < 0001), and from the secondary follicles on days 141, 128, 104, 144 and 125 (average s.e.d. = 14·1, P = 0·053) for treatments L, M, H, SL and SAL respectively. The loss of brushes from primary and secondary follicles was completed on average, by days 194 and 206 of the experiment respectively, and there were no differences between treatments. Moult score and staple length data confirmed the conclusion that lowering the plane of nutrition delayed the start of the moult. No additional effect of fleece removal in the shorn treatments was observed.

Changes in circulating levels of plasma prolactin, thyroxine, tri-iodothyronine, insulin, insulin-like growth factor-1 and growth hormone were related to seasonal changes in daylength and plane of nutrition. Their rôle in the control of the moult is discussed.

Manipulation of the nutrition of cashmere goats in early spring has the potential to delay and increase the synchrony of fibre moult and to improve the efficiency of cashmere harvesting.

The pattern of follicle activity and fibre growth on the neck, mid side and rear leg of 12 Scottish Cashmere (SC) and nine Siberian (S) goat kids was examined from birth to 255 days of age. In both genotypes maximum secondary to primary follicle (S/P) ratio was reached earliest on the neck (P < 0·05) but was proportionately 0·21 and 0·28 (P < 0·001) lower than that on the rear leg and mid side respectively. Secondary follicle activity ceased earlier on the rear leg than the mid side or neck (P < 0·001) and this was associated with lower staple lengths and patch weights of undercoat. Fibre weight and diameter were compared on six body parts: neck, front leg, mid side, rear leg, rump and belly at 255 days of age. Patch undercoat weights and diameter were greatest on the neck, front leg and rump and lowest on the belly.

The estimated annual production of undercoat, calculated from patch weights and skin area measurements on the six parts of the body at 255 days of age was 138 (range 42 to 260) g for SC kids and 525 (range 377 to 661) g for S kids (s.e.d. = 39·4, P < 0·001). Mean undercoat diameter was 16·15 (range 15·32 to 17·51) and 18·94 (range 17·25 to 19·89) μm for SC and S kids respectively (s.e.d. = 0·376, P < 0·001).

Correlation coefficients between fibre traits, measured at approximately monthly intervals and estimates of annual production and undercoat diameter at 255 days were calculated. For SC kids mid-side patch undercoat weight was consistently and strongly related to estimated annual production (mean correlation coefficient, 0·85, s.e. 0·036). For S kids the only variable to show a consistently strong relationship with estimated annual production was mid-side undercoat staple length × diameter2 (mean correlation coefficient 0·66, s.e. 0·067). Thus the best fibre traits for ranking annual production differed between genotypes. In both cases the accuracy of the ranking increased with age. Undercoat fibre diameter measured from 4 to 5 months of age was closely related to estimated undercoat diameter at 255 days of age in both SC and S genotypes (mean correlation coefficient 0·92, s.e. 0·009). Prior to 4 months of age the mean correlation coefficient for SC and S genotypes was 0·53 (s.e. 0·20).

It is concluded that goat kids can be ranked for annual production and diameter of the undercoat, prior to first harvesting, based on fibre traits measured on samples of the fleece.

Ten Scottish male castrated cashmere-yielding (C) and 10 Angora (A) goats with initial live weights of 38·2 (C) and 32·1 (A) kg respectively were used in a 112-day study in the time period August to December. The goats were blocked within genotypes according to live weight and randomly assigned to one of two treatments: either no supplementation (O) or dietary supplementation (S) with 2·5 g/kg dry matter (DM) intake of rumen-protected intestinally available methionine (Smartamine™ M, Rhone Poulenc, Animal Nutrition, Antony 92164, France) in a 2 × 2 factorial arrangement.

The goats were offered a basal diet in the proportion of 0·6, grass hay and 0·4 concentrate according to their live weight. Diet metabolizable energy (ME) and crude protein (CP) concentration per kg DM were estimated as 9·9 MJ (ME) and 107 g (CP) and DM intake was restricted to 28 g/kg live weight daily. Apparent digestibility and nitrogen (N) balance studies were conducted from days 24 to 40 and 51 to 64. Measurements were made within three time periods of days 0 to 40, 41 to 75 and 76 to 112.

Angora goats excreted less urinary N than cashmere-yielding goats and had lower values for plasma urea and glucose and greater overall retention ofN, associated with a two- to three-fold greater total fibre yield. Cashmere as a proportion of total fibre by weight, (guard hair plus cashmere) varied from 0·27 to 0·43.

The main effects due to methionine supplementation were improvements in live-weight gain and food conversion ratio. Reductions in urinary N excretion and increases in N retention were recorded, which were generally greater for Angora than for cashmere-yielding goats, and were again associated with the larger responses in fibre production. Clear evidence was also obtained for methionine-induced increases in the weight of raw cashmere, although not guard hair up to day 58. This response was obtained in the absence of significant effects on cashmere diameter, although methionine supplementation consistently increased the average diameter of mohair fibres.

Genetic parameters were calculated for fibre traits measured on patch samples taken at 5 months of age on a crossbred population of cashmere goats, comprising goats of Scottish feral, Icelandic, Tasmanian, New Zealand and Siberian origin. Within-strain heritabilities, fitting genetic origin as a covariable, were: live weight, 0·71 (s.e. 0·08), fibre diameter, 0·63 (0·07), diameter standard deviation 0·43 (0·08), logipatch cashmere weight), 0·60 (0·06), log(estimated annual cashmere production), 0·51 (0·07), and fibre length, 0·49 (0·15). Including between strain information increased these values to 0·74, 0·68, 0·45, 0·73, 0·67 and 0·57, respectively. Maternal effects for all fibre traits were negligible. Expressions were derived to relate cashmere weight to fibre diameter and length, using functional relationships between these traits. Logarithmic regressions showed cashmere weight to be proportional to diameter2'7, indicating that selection to reducefibre diameter will have a disproportionate effect on cashmere weight. Analyses of subsets of the data confirmed this and showed that correlated responses to selection can be accurately predicted by considering thefunctionally relatedfibre traits on the log scale.

The effect of long-term treatment of goats with methylthiouracil on the timing, amount and quality of secondary fibre (cashmere) growth and timing of cashmere moult in goats was investigated. From early June, groups of 10 Icelandic × Scottish feral goats were dosed orally each day, for a 15-month period, with 5 mg methylthiouracil per kg live weight in 30 ml water (treated; T) or with water only (control; C). Treatment with methylthiouracil resulted in a significant reduction (P < 0·05) in the proportion of active secondary hair follicles present during March. This was associated with a delayed onset of moult of cashmere in T compared with C goats at both the head (11 March v. 23 February; s.e. 3·33 days; P< 0·05) and mid side (27 March v. 26 February; s.e. 3·58 days; P < 0·001). There was no effect on the time of onset (C, 19 July; T, 19 July; s.e. 5·84 days) or cessation of cashmere fibre growth (C, 9 December; T, 8 December; s.e. 1·69 days) or the mean growth rate (C, 0·473 mm/day; T, 0·451 mm/day; s.e. 0·025) and fibre diameter (C, 16·9 μm; T, 15·4 jim; s.e. 0·266). Wlien present in the fleece, the mean weight and proportion of cashmere was higher in C than in T goats (P < 0·05). It is concluded that methylthiouracil treatment altered secondary follicle activity and the time of onset of the moult of cashmere and that these changes may be a result of reduced triiodothyronine production from thyroxine and associated secondary changes in profiles of insulin and IGF-1.

The development and moulting of the birth and first adult coat of two genotypes of cashmere-bearing goats, a highyielding Siberian (S) and low-yielding Icelandic × Scottish feral (IF), were examined. Samples of fibre from the neck, mid side, belly and rear-leg areas and of mid-side skin were obtained monthly from five male and five female kids of each genotype from birth to 13 months of age. Guard hair and undercoat length, secondary/primary (S/P) skin follicle ratio and the proportion of skin follicles containing a non-growing fibre with a brush end were recorded. S/P ratio reached an asymptote between 4 and 5 months of age and was higher fP < 0·01) in S (10·7) than in IF (6·7) kids. In both genotypes peaks of brush formation in primary follicles occurred between 2 and 4 months and again between 8 and 11 months of age. In contrast to primary follicles, secondary follicles had only a single peak of brush formation occurring at 10 and 8 months of age for S and IF kids respectively. Guard hair moulted from the birthcoat, but there was no loss of undercoat prior to 12 months of age and harvesting of cashmere prior to this time is unnecessary.

The secondary follicles of S kids had a longer growing period and fibre length increased at a greater rate than that of IF kids, resulting in more than a two-fold difference in the maximum undercoat length. Assessments to estimate the final weight and proportion of cashmere, made prior to completion of growth of the fleece, are likely to underestimate these parameters for high-yielding goats in comparison with their low-yielding counterparts. However, it is unlikely to alter the ranking, and hence the selection, of animals for retention in the breeding herd.

The effect of melatonin implants administered to cashmere goats in the winter, on plasma prolactin, triiodothyronine (T3) and thyroxine (T4) concentrations and the timing of the spring moult, was studied with the objective of identifying a method of manipulating the timing of the spring moult and increasing fibre harvesting efficiency. The effect of similar melatonin implants on prolactin concentration when administered in the increasing daylength of spring, was also measured.

In the first experiment, using 20 juvenile and 20 adult female cashmere goats, half the animals of each group received continuous release implants of melatonin (18 mg) on 11 December, 1 February and 1 April. In the adult goats the treatment significantly advanced by 7 weeks the time at which peak plasma prolactin concentrations were attained (P < 0·001) and advanced the onset (P < 0·001) of the peak. The treatment also resulted in an advance of the spring moult of cashmere in the adult goats (P < 0·01) and in an earlier initiation (P < 0·01) of the growth of both guard hair and cashmere as judged by histological examination of primary and secondary hair follicles. In the juvenile goats there were no significant effects of melatonin administration on plasma prolactin concentrations, the timing of the moult, or on any of the histological measurements compared with the controls. There were no significant effects on live weight or circulating concentrations of T3 and T4 in either age group. In the second experiment, the administration of one melatonin implant (18 mg) to three adult goats on 1 April caused a significant reduction in plasma prolactin concentrations (P < 0·05) over a period of 3 weeks compared with concentrations observed in four untreated goats.

It is concluded that treatment with melatonin implants is effective in modifying the timing of the seasonal cycle in prolactin secretion in adult cashmere goats and causing corresponding changes in hair follicle activity. However, since the treatment initiated in December caused an advance rather than a delay in the normal spring rise in plasma prolactin concentrations, it is evident that the repeated melatonin implant protocol used in this experiment cannot be used to delay the onset of the spring moult and thus facilitate the harvesting of cashmere.