Navajo Lichen Dyes

Abstract

Thirty-five species of lichens were collected from nine locations on or adjacent to the Navajo Indian Reservation in the southwestern United States. Wool was dyed using the traditional boiling water and ammonia fermentation methods. An additional method was developed using a solvent to extract lichen substances and dye wool, cold; this dimethylsulphoxide extraction method is described and the resulting dye colours were sometimes different. Over 155 individual dye tests were made on sheep's wool; a correlation of dye colour with lichen substances reported for the species was attempted. Predominant dye colours were tan, but yellow, orange, pink, purple, and blue-grey were also produced. These colours were further altered by modifying: (1) fermentation time; (2) dyeing time, temperature, or pH level; (3) exposure to light; and (4) subsequent additional extractions using the same method or different methods. Dyed wool samples, tested for stability in sunlight, generally faded to some degree and some changed colour. Most dyes obtained through the dimethylsulphoxide extraction method were light stable.