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The Topkapisaray Museum has long displayed part of the great collection of royal robes of the Ottoman House. Most of these are kaftans with floral patterns related to those of other fabrics of their periods or to Iznik tile designs. Some have geometric patterns among which are the robe assigned to Murad III (Archive 2/3770) which is unique. Unlike some attributions, this is one that is probable although this garment has not, to my knowledge, been the subject of published research. Although it is labelled as a kaftan, a glance shows it to be nothing of the kind. Sevin recognised this error and calls it a kapamasi or mantle and even a cloak, but it has sleeves and could be worn as a gown.
I would suggest that it is a muraqqa‘a or khirqa, which was the patched garment candidates wore when they were newly admitted to the Khalwatī path among the Sufi orders after three years novitiate. It was the symbol of the new brother's renunciation of worldiness and worldly goods.
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- Copyright © The Royal Asiatic Society 1984
References
1 Sevin, N.., Saray Kaftanlan in Dünyamiz, Sanat, Y.1, S.3, Istanbul, 1975, 20–21. Note also the cordage at the neck.Google Scholar
2 Trtaingham, J. Spencer, The Sufi Orders in Islam, Oxford, 1971, 181.Google Scholar
3 Inalcik, H., The Ottoman Empire, London, 1973, 98.Google Scholar
4 Op. cit., 17.Google Scholar