Wave-induced circulation in submerged sands

Extract

Pressure waves moving across the sand beds at 3 m depth at Le Racou caused circulation of water in the unconsolidated sand layer. The pattern of circulation apparently depended on the depth of the unconsolidated layer and the form of the sand ripples. The rate of flow was determined by the height of the surface waves and the permeability of the deposit. The physical properties of the sands at the crests and in the troughs of the ripples were in part determined by the organic component which in turn would have been governed largely by the patterns and flow rates of the interstitial currents supplying organic material and nutrients to the sand. Differences in the physical properties of the sediment at the crest and in the trough of a ripple due to the organic component were such as would have affected substantially the prevalence of Branchiostoma lanceolatum and harpacticoid copepods. Sand properties dependent on the organic component would clearly be subject to change in accordance with the prevailing weather conditions and hence the supply of organic material. The role of irrigated sands in the removal of organic material from shallow seas is discussed.