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Aspects of ancient Macedonian costume

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  11 October 2013

Chryssoula Saatsoglou-Paliadeli
Chryssoula Saatsoglou-Paliadeli
Affiliation:
University of Thessaloniki
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Extract

A judicious combination of literary sources and archaeological research has often offered rewarding historical insights. In Macedonian studies such attempts have tended to be less fruitful, due to the scanty nature of the material and literary evidence. Now that archaeological investigation has expanded so widely in Northern Greece, it may be time to reassess aspects of Macedonian culture which have in the past been tackled with more enthusiasm than actual evidence, not surprisingly in view of the age-long interest in the people who shaped the Hellenistic world.

Type
Research Article
Information
The Journal of Hellenic Studies , Volume 113 , November 1993 , pp. 122 - 147
Copyright
Copyright © The Society for the Promotion of Hellenic Studies 1993

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References

† This article was originally dedicated to Professor Manolis Andronikos, who supported my research in every possible way. It is now dedicated to his memory, as an acknowledgement of his scholarly contribution to Macedonian studies. My deep appreciation I owe to Professor H. Kyrieleis, Professor D. Pantermalis and especially to Professor V. v. Graeve, for reading the draft and encouraging the completion of this paper. The English text owes much to Dr. Bettina Tsigarida and especially to Dr. A. Johnston who revised it. The drawings I owe to George Miltsakakis' friendly offer. For useful remarks I thank my colleagues Dr. B. Schmidt-Douna, Dr. P. Faklaris and Dr. A. Mentzos, at Thessaloniki University. I owe much to the anonymous readers for JHS and to the Editor.

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2 Borza (n. 1) 40.

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6 Dintsis, P., Hellenistiche Helme (Rome 1986) 183–195Google Scholar, 204–314 nos. 281–301, pls. 80–83, Beil. 14 (hereafter Dintsis).

7 Prestianni-Giallombardo, A.M., ‘Kausia diadematophoros in Macedonia: Testimonianze misconosciute e nuove proposte’, Messana NS i (1989) 1–13Google Scholar pls. I–IV.

8 Μαν. Ανδρόνικος, Βεργίνα. Οι Βασιλικοί τάφοι και οι άλλες αρχαιότητες (Athens 1984) 96 ff.

9 Gow, A.S.F.—Page, D. L., The Greek Anthology. Part I: The garland of Philip i–ii (Cambridge 1968) 37Google Scholar no. 41, 50–51 respectively.

10 Le Roy (n. 4) 290 n. 64. Dintsis 184 n. 12, 190 n. 57.

11 Garlan, Y., Recherches de poliorcétique grecque (Athens 1974) 314, 31–36.Google Scholar

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14 Jaeckel, P., Zeitschrift der Gesellschaft für historische Waffen-und Kostümkunde vii (1965) 103.Google Scholar Wuescher-Becchi (n.4) 104. Sauer, H., Kleine Pauly iii (1969) cols. 171–172Google Scholar suggested both leather and felt. Kalleris (n. 3) 204 f. proposed leather for the early kausiai but felt for the royal ones.

15 Heuzey (n. 4) 976. Netoliczka (n. 4) c.92.

16 Dintsis 183 n. 4.

17 Kingsley 42 n. 26.

18 Kingsley 42 n. 26 prefers ‘bits of wool’ rather than ‘felt’. Dintsis 183 n. 4.

19 Gow-Page (n. 9) i 37 no. XLI. Kingsley 42 n. 26. Dintsis 183 n. 4.

20 LSJ, s.v. ‘ἱδρώς’ = Ar. Eccles. 750.

21 Gow-Page (n. 9) ii, 53 s.v. ‘διψήσασα’ = Xen. An. 1.1: ‘ἐγὼ ὑμῖν διψῶ χαρίζεσθαι’.

22 Gow-Page (n.9) ii, 57 s.v. ‘κρόκη’. LSJ s.v. ‘κρόκη’.

23 Dintsis 183 n. 4. Kingsley 42 n. 26.

24 Borchhardt, J., Homerische Helme (Mainz 1972) 9Google Scholar s.v. ‘πῖλος’: ‘das Wort erscheint nur einmal als Bezeichnung für das Innerfutter des Eberzahnhelmes auf der Dolonie’.

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26 Edgar, C.C., Zenon Papyri iv (Hildesheim 1971) 77–78Google Scholar no. 59633.6–9.

27 Garlan (n. 11) 314.31–36.

28 LSJ s.v. ‘ἀρνακίς’. Blümner (n. 25) 260 n.3. Le Roy (n. 4) 292 n. 70 interprets the term as ‘kausiai en peau (ou feutre) de mouton’.

29 Kalleris (n. 3) 205 n. 5. Thompson (n. 4) 53 n. 134.

30 Garlan (n. 11) 314 translates the term as ‘chapeau de feutre’.

31 LSJ s.v. ‘χρώς’.

32 LSJ s.v. ‘ὑυμήν’, ‘μεμβράνη’, ‘κύστις’.

33 Forbes, R.J., Studies in ancient technology v (Leiden 1957) 61 ff.Google Scholar For an exception recorded on linen see Forbes iii (1965) 228.

34 HP iii 8.6. Blümner (n. 25) I 268 n. 2. Forbes (n. 33) ii, 230 n. 66.

35 Forbes (n. 33) 6.

36 Plin. HN xxxiv 123–125. Forbes iii 230.

37 Blümner i 283.

38 Garlan (n. 11) 324 no. 78, lines 36–39. The syntax is not very clear; however, τεθείσης cannot but refer to the letter (ὲπιστολή) written εἰς ύμένα.

39 Kalleris (n. 3) 204 f., 205.

40 Blümner i 232 n. 1. Forbes v, 46.

41 LSJ s.v. ‘ἀαλουργής’.

42 Blümner i 265 n. 5: ‘die Alaun — der Weissgerberei — liefert nämlich sehr weiches Leder, und gerade diese Eigenschaft wird in der “Aluta” gerühmt.’

43 Hoffmann (n. 4) 58 n. 44. Kalleris 204 n. 6.

44 Heuzey (n. 4) 975 (καῦσις). Wuescher-Becchi (n. 4) 94 and Hoffmann (n. 4) 58 (καῦσις and καῦσος).

45 Kalleris 205 n. 4.

46 Kingsley 42: ‘the cap was made of wool and was comfortably worn in snow but the roll about the eyes served also as a sweat-band’.

47 Prestianni-Giallombardo (n. 7) 13.

48 Hoffmann (n.4) 58.

49 Kalleris 205 nn. 5–9.

50 Dintsis 183 n. 1.

51 Kalleris 206 nn. 2–4.

52 Prestianni-Giallombardo (n. 7) 13.

53 LSJ s.v. ‘καῦμα’.

54 LSJ s.v. ‘καύσων’.

55 See above n. 44.

56 LSJ s.v. ‘καῦσος’.

57 LSJ s.v. ‘καῦσις’.

58 Vitr. vii 9.

59 Theait. 156B.

60 LSJ s.v. ‘καυσία’. Durham, D. B., The vocabulary of Menander (Amsterdam 1969) 70Google Scholar s.v. ‘καυσία’. (The reference to Theophrastus fr. 4.35 is referring to a ‘κασία’; therefore it should be discarded from the kausia references.

61 LSJ s.v. ‘θολία’.

62 Forbes v 13.

63 G. Seiterle, AW X.3 (1979) 6 ff. id.AW xvi.3 (1985) 3 ff. id.AntK xxvii (1984) 135 ff., 140. Blümner i 269 n. 6.

64 For tanning techniques see Blümner i 263 ff. Since raw-hide is also attested by Dio Cassius (Forbes v 13) it could be suggested that κράνη ὠμοβόεια or ἀσπίδες ὠμοβόιναι (LSJ s.v. ‘ὠωμοβόειος’) may allude to a technique other than the one applied on the kausia.

65 Eustathios ad Od. 1399; Kingsley 42 n. 30 translates ‘flat pilos’.

66 Kingsley 42 n. 28.

67 For the term as part of a helmet see Dintsis 59 n. 11. I. Βοκοτοπούλου, Στήλη. Τόμος εις μνήμην Ν. Κοντολέοντος (Athens 1978) 236 n. 32. Seiterle, G., AW xvi (1985) 5.Google Scholar As for the term as part of the kausia Philo's στεφάνη could be equated with Plautus' ‘scutula’ (Plautus, Miles Gloriosus 1178–1181).

68 Dintsis 184 n. 12. Yet Gow-Page (n. 9) i, 37 translate the term as ‘broad-brimmed hat’. So Borza (n. 1) 130.

69 Le Rider, G., Le monnayage d'argent et d'or de Philippe Ile (Paris 1977) 5 figs. 1–2.Google Scholar

70 Prestianni-Giallombardo, A.M., Ancient Macedonia iv (1983) 507 n. 28.Google Scholar

71 Prestianni-Giallombardo (n. 7) 5 ff., 10 n. 34.

72 Dintsis Beil. 14.

73 Kingsley 39 ill. 1.

74 Dintsis 304–312, nos. 281–301, pls. 80–83.

75 Louvre 804: Heuzey-Daumet (n. 4) 292ff., pl. 22. Biesantz, H., Die thessalischen Grabreliefs (Mainz 1965) 27Google Scholar (K56) pl. 23.

76 Heuzey (n.4) 975 fig. 1259.

77 Heuzey-Daumet (n.4) 292.

78 Dintsis 184 nn. 11–12. Perdridet, , RA iii (1904)Google Scholar and Gaebler, , ZfN xxxvii (1927) 239Google Scholar understood the kausia in rather peculiar ways.

79 Neuffer (n. 4) 23. Schneider (n. 4) 32.

80 Dintsis 185 n. 19.

81 Prestianni-Giallombardo (n. 7) 8 n. 29.

82 Brommer, F., Der Parthenonfries (Mainz 1977) 22 f.Google Scholar, no. 29 pl. 44 and 151 f. no. 17 pl. 28, respectively.

83 AA 1931, 217 ff., figs. 1–3 (Karo, A.). JHS li (1931) 187Google Scholar fig. 4 (H. Payne). Hölscher (n. 4) 103 n. 530.

84 Bieber, M., Griechische Kleidung (Berlin 1928) 71f.Google Scholar pl. xxxv.2. The angled brim is usual on Thessalian grave reliefs: Biesantz (n. 75) 16 pl. 12 and 78 f.

85 Kraay, C. M., Archaic and Classical Greek coins (London 1976) pl. 28 no. 499.Google ScholarBrandenburg, H., Studien zur Mitra (Münster 1966) 173 f. n. 51.Google Scholar

86 Andronikos, M., BalkStud v (1964) 287 ff.Google Scholar, pls. VI.7 a VII,8. Petsas, Ph., Pella. Alexander the Great's capital (Thessaloniki 1978) 53Google Scholar fig. 14, 100 fig. 12 respectively.

87 Ανδρόνικος (n. 8) 86 ff., fig. 49.

88 Andronikos (n. 86) 295 pl. VII fig. 8. Petsas (n. 86) 100 fig. 12. Μακεδονία. 4000 χρόνια ελληνικής ιστορίας και πολιτισμού (Athens 1982, M. Sakellariou ed.) 183 fig. 117.

89 Heuzey (n. 4) 975 speaks of an ‘ornement circulaire’, while Bieber (n. 84) 72 describes the device as an ‘Öse’.

90 Andronikos (n. 86) 294 pl. VI fig. 7. Petsas (n. 86) 53 fig. 14. Φίλιππος βασιλεύς Μακεδόνων (Athens 1980 L. Loukopoulou-M. Hatzopoulos eds.) 156–159 fig. 83.

91 Χρυσ. Σαατσόγλου–Παλιαδέλη, Τα επιτάφια μνημεία απο τη Μεγάλη της Βεργίνας (Thessaloniki 1984). Ανδρόνικος (n. 8) 83 f. figs. 44–45.

92 Dintsis 186 n. 23, 309 f. no. 294 pl. 81,2. G. M. A. Richter, The portraits of the Greeks III (London 1965) 278 figs. 1970–71. Helbig iv (1972) 233 ff. no. 3260 (H. v. Heintze).

93 Andronikos, M., BCH lxxix (1955) 87 ff.CrossRefGoogle Scholar Σαατσόγλου–Παλιαδέλη (n. 91) 71 ff. pls. 15–19.

94 Σαατσόγλου–Παλιαδέλη (n. 91) 19 ff. pl. 4.

95 Le Roy (n. 4) 290 n. 62 fig. 6.

96 Louvre MA 858.

97 Loeschke, G., JdI iii (1888) 190 pl. 7.Google Scholar

98 Hölscher (n. 4) 184 n. 1112.

99 Loeschke (n. 97) pl. 7.

100 Χρυσ. Σαατσόγλου–Παλιαδέλη, ‘Το ανάθημα του Κρατερού στους Δελφούς. Μεθοδολογικά προβλήματα αναπαράστασης, Εγνατία i (1989) 81 ff. pls. 393–397.

101 Dintsis 307 f. nos. 289–291 pls. 82.6, 82.1 and 81.1, respectively.

102 Dintsis 186 n. 23, 309 f. no. 294 pl. 81,2.

103 Σαατσόγλου–Παλιαδέλη (n. 91) 152 ff. pls. 42–43.

104 Helbig iv (1972) 235 ff. no. 3260 (H. v. Heintze).

105 Dintsis nos. 281–290, 293–295, 297–301.

106 Dintsis 184 f., nos. 291–292, 296.

107 Dintsis 309 no. 292 pl. 81.3.

108 Netoliczka (n. 4) 92.

109 Heuzey (n. 4) 976.

110 Dintsis 57 ff. id.Ancient Macedonia iv (1983–1986) 171 ff. Lumpkin, H., ‘The Weapons and Armour of the Macedonian Phalanx’, The Journal of the Arms and Armour Society viii (1975) 195 f.Google Scholar (I owe the quotation to Dr. P. Faklaris).

111 Dintsis 57 n. 2. Feyel, M., RA vi (1935), 29 ff.Google Scholar

112 Dintsis 57 nn. 3–4. Homolle, T., BCH vi (1882) 35.56Google Scholar, 37.75–76.

113 Dintsis 186 n. 21 no. 291 pl. 81.1 and 186 no. 296 pl. 80.6.

114 Netoliczka (n. 4) 92 and 89, respectively.

115 Schneider (n. 4) 32.

116 Wuescher-Becchi (n. 4) 104. Dintsis 185 n. 17.

117 Dintsis 185 n. 18.

118 Dintsis 185 n. 19.

119 Dintsis 185, 192 n. 65, 30 no. 293 pl. 83,1. Dr. Pan. Faklaris, AD xl, 1985 (1991) I ff., especially 7f., has recently suggested the interpretation of this specific gear not as a kausia, but as a gorget (περιτραχήλιον).

120 Le Roy (n. 4) 290 nn. 63–65. Le Rider (n. 69) 5 n.1; 122 f., Pl. 44.31–32. (See below n. 150).

121 Π.Α.Πάντος, Τα σφραγίσματα της Αιτωλικής Καλλιπόλεως (Athens 1985) pl. 35 no. 258, pl. 37 no. 263, pl. 41 no. 283.

122 Kyrieleis, H., ‘Die makedonische Kausia auf spätptolemaischen Siegeln’, Ancient Macedonia iv (1983 — oral presentation).Google Scholar I am indebted to Prof. Kyrieleis for putting his draft at my disposal. A very well preserved sealing from Kifrin on the Euphrates is depicted in La Terra tra i due fiumi. Venti anni di archaeologia italiana. La Mesopotamia dei tesori (Turin 1985) 176.1 no. 104. (The quotation I owe to Prof. Kyrieleis).

123 Dintsis 307 no. 287 pl. 80,4.

124 Fittschen, K., ‘Zum Figurenfries der Villa von Boscoreale’, Neue Forschungen in Pompeji (Recklinghausen 1975, Andreae, B.—Kyrieleis, H. eds.) 93–100.Google Scholar

125 Studniczka, E., Jdl xxxviii/xxxix (1923/1924) 68 ff.Google Scholar

126 Simon, E., ‘Die Fürstenbilder von Boscoreale’ DBAW vii (1958)Google Scholar

127 Robertson, M., JRS xlv/xlvi (1955/1956) 61.Google Scholar

128 Barnabei, F., La villa pompeiana di P. Fannio Sinistore (Roma 1901) 51 ff.Google Scholar

129 Lehmann, Ph., Roman Wall Paintings from Boscoreale in the Metropolitan Museum of Art (Cambridge, Mass. 1953) 31 ff.Google Scholar

130 Sjöquist, E., AJA lix (1955) 45 ff. pl. 31.a-d.CrossRefGoogle Scholar

131 Pfuhl, E., MuZ ii (1923) 879.Google Scholar

132 Bieber, M.—Bothmer, D. v., AJA lx (1956) 171 ff.CrossRefGoogle Scholar Brandenburg (n. 85) 171: ‘ein flacher Hut mit breit überstehendem Rand, der unseren Matrosenmutzen nicht unähnlich ist’.

133 Fittschen (n.124) 93 ff.

134 Plaut. Trin.851: ‘pol hic quidem fungino generest’.

135 Studniczka (n. 125) 71 n. 5.

136 Studniczka (n. 125) 72 n. 7, 73 n. 1. Thompson (n. 4) 53 f., nn. 134, 136–137.-Brandenburg (n. 85) 170 n. 42. Simon (n. 126) 15 n. 7. Bieber-v. Bothmer (n. 132) 171 interpret the ends of the Boscoreale ‘diadem’ or ‘mitra’ as ‘long lappets, which can serve as earmuffs’.

137 Andronikos, M., AAA xiii.1 (1980) 177 ff.Google ScholarLehmann, Ph., AAA xiv.1 (1981) 134 ff.Google Scholar Cp. Ritter, H.W., ‘Zum sogenannten diadem des Philippsgrabes’ AA 1984, 105 ff. 140.Google Scholar

138 Dintsis 311 no. 299, pl.82,3.

139 Thompson (n. 4) 53 n. 132. Richter, G. M. A., Catalogue of Greek Sculpture. Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York 1954) 32 f.Google Scholar no. 40 pl XL.a-e, interprets it as a partly preserved petasos.

140 Kingsley 39 ill. 1.

141 Kingsley 42 n. 21 pl. 6 fig. 3. Thompson (n. 4) 53 ff., 54 n. 143, pls. xvi, lxi.

142 Thompson (n. 4) 54 n. 142.

143 Thompson (n. 4) 53 nn. 131–132.

144 Σαατσόγλου–Παλιαδέλη (n. 91) 65ff., pl. 14.

145 Ανδρόνικος (n. 8) 100 ff., figs. 58–63. Αμητός. Τιμητικός τόμος για τον καθηγητή Μανόλη Ανδρόνικο i (Thessaloniki 1987) pl. 1. (Reconstructed by G. Miltsakakis). The publication of the fresco is undertaken by the author of this article.

146 Atalante is depicted wearing a similar cap on a lost Pompeian painting: Schefold, K., Vergessenes Pompeji (Bern 1962) 167 pl. 59Google Scholar, 1, while on another scene with Meleager and Atalante, one of the watchers wears a similar cap: Le collezioni del Museo di Napoli (Rome 1986) 135 no. 82 Inv. 8980.

147 Dintsis 305 f. no. 284 pl. 83,2. Fehr, B., Bathron. Beiträge für H. Drerup (1988) 121–134.Google Scholar

148 Rumpf, A., MDAI(A) lxxvii (1962) 229 ff.Google Scholar, mainly 238. Hölscher (n. 4) 135 nn. 799, 801.

149 Hölscher 135 (Rekonstruktionsskizze).

150 Le Rider (n. 69) 122 f. pl. 44, 31–32.

151 Arr. vii 22.2. Dintsis 187 n. 31. Brandenburg (n. 85) 171 ff. (n. 45). Kingsley, B.M., AJA lxxxviii (1984) 66–68CrossRefGoogle Scholar suggests that the kausia diadematophoros acquired ‘Dionysiac connotations in Northern Asia’. Prestianni-Giallombardo (n. 7) 12 has seen in the kausia diadematophoros a symbol ‘della-regalità di un Elleno sul regno di Dario’.

152 Dintsis 306 no. 286 pl. 83,3.

153 Shivkova, L., Das Grabmal von Kazanlak (Recklinghausen 1973) 49 fig. 14.Google Scholar

154 Dintsis 192: ‘ihre Form an die Kausia erinnert und möglicherweise von ihr beeinflusst wurde’.

155 Hölscher 145 ff., 158 f., 163 n. 999, 170 ff.

156 Dintsis 304 no. 281 pl. 80,2. Le Rider (n. 69) 5. Brandenburg (n. 85) 173 n. 50. Dintsis 305 no. 283 pl. 82,2; Le Roy (n. 4) 290 n. 63 figs. 7–8.

157 Dintsis 311 no. 298 pl. 82,4.

158 Dintsis 311 f. no. 299 pl. 82,3.

159 Dintsis 311 no. 297 pl. 82,5.

160 Dintsis 310 no. 295 pl. 80, 3.5.

161 Dintsis 192 f.

162 Prestianni-Giallombardo (n. 7) 13.

163 Friedricksmeyer (n. 4) 219 ff.

164 Friedricksmeyer 216 f.

165 Friedricksmeyer 222 f.

166 Friedricksmeyer 223.

167 Friedricksmeyer 220.

168 Friedricksmeyer 220 f.

169 Friedricksmeyer 219.

170 Friedricksmeyer 222.

171 Friedricksmeyer 223 f.

172 Berve, H., Das Alexanderreich auf prosopographgrcher Grundlage ii (Munich 1926) 188 f.Google Scholar no. 397 (s.v. ‘Κάλας’) and 220 ff. no. 446 (s.v. ‘Κρατερός’).

173 Berve 288 ff. no. 583 (s.v. Ὀνησίκρητος).

174 Hammond, N.G.L.—Griffith, G.T., A history of Macedonia ii (Oxford 1979) 159Google Scholar: ‘commanders’; 461: ‘brigadiers’; 671: ‘highest officers’. Berve (n. 172) i 202, 211.

175 ἠγεμονικοί may be equated with βασιλικοί referring to the king's own ‘hypaspists’: Hammond-Griffith (n. 174) 416 n. 1.

176 Berve (n. 172) I 37 ff. Hammond-Griffith 401 f. Borza (n. 1) 249 f.

177 Prestianni-Giallombardo (n. 7) 9 ff.

178 Hölscher (n. 4) 136 n. 804 (‘hypaspist’). Dintsis 194 nn. 74–75 (‘somatophylakes’). Studniczka (n. 125) 71 and Simon (n. 126) 16. (‘argyraspist’).

179 Berve (n. 172) i, 37–39. Hammond-Griffith (n. 174) 415–418.

180 Hammond-Griffith (n. 174) 401.

181 Hammond-Griffith (n. 174) 402. Borza (n. 1) 249 sees the formation of a ‘corps of Royal Pages’ as an orientalizing tendency of Philip's policy. But Hammond-Griffith (n. 174) 168 n. 1, 401 associate the institution with Archelaos. For a detailed discussion of the institution and its evolution, see now Hammond, N.G.L., Historia xxxix (1990) 260 ff.Google Scholar, esp. 271.

182 Hammond-Griffith 401 f., n. 3.

183 Berve i 37.

184 Dintsis 194 f.

185 v. Graeve (n. 12) 87 n. 28.

186 Kähler, H., ‘Der Fries vom Reiterdenkmal des Aemilius Paulus in Delphi’, Monumenta artis Romanae v (1965).Google ScholarValcano, O. v., Bathron. Beiträge für H. Drerup (Recklinghausen 1988) 375 ff.Google Scholar

187 Ανδρόνικος (n. 8) 114.

188 Kyrieleis (n. 122).

189 Le Rider (n. 69) 364 f., nn. 10–14.

190 Dintsis 190 n. 57.

191 Dintsis 192.

192 Berve i 25.

193 Kingsley 45.

194 Kalleris 106. Dintsis 188 nn. 39–41.

195 Thompson (n. 4) 54 nn. 140–142.

196 Kingsley 39 ff.

197 Prestianni-Giallombardo (n. 7) 3.

198 Cp. Kinglsey 41 f. n. 25.

199 Friedricksmeyer 219 ff.

200 Andronikos, Man., ‘Argumentum e silentio’, AAA xxiii (1980) 360–365.Google Scholar The discovery of a new Macedonian tomb at Vergina, dated according to the sherds of a Panathenaic amphora, to a little after 344 BC, proves that Ph. Lehmann's main argument against the attribution of ‘Philip's tomb’ to Philip II, is of no value anymore. See Praktika 1987 (1991) 128 ff., esp. 131 (M. Andronikos).

201 LSJ s.v. ‘πέτασος’.

202 I am deeply indebted to Dr. J. Vinogradov for his kind invitation to publish the sherd.

203 Kingsley 42 n. 28.

204 Borza (n. 1) 44.

205 Kingsley 40 n. 7.

206 Kingsley 46.

207 Friedricksmeyer 226.

208 Kingsley 45 n. 59.

209 Prestianni-Giallombardo (n. 7) 11 n. 36 disputes Le Rider's argumentation on the chronology of these coins in the early years of Philip's reign, Le Rider (n. 69) 387 f., 428 f., which she prefers to date as posthumous issues. That the tomb cannot be dated later than the third quarter of the 4th century BC, as already suggested by its excavator, has been recently ascertained, thanks to the study of the ceramics found immediately over the structure: Dr. Drougou dates tham to the third quarter of the century. The publication of her study will hopefully put an end to the long controversy about the date of the tomb and the person for whom it was made.

210 Friedricksmeyer 223. Kinglsey, B.M., ‘The kausia diadematophoros’, AJA lxxxviii (1984) 68 n. 23.Google Scholar Kalleris i 275 f., 276 n. 1.

211 Kingsley 45 n. 54. Kingsley (n. 210) 68.

212 Heuzey, L., Histoire de la costume antique (Paris 1922) 133 ff.Google Scholar

213 Plut. Alex. 26.5: ‘κυκλοτερῆ κόλπον ἦγον, οὐ τὴν ἐντὸς περιφέρειαν εὐθεῖαι βάσεις ὥσπερ ἀπο κρασπέδων τὸ σχῆμα χλαμύδος ὑπελάμβανον, ἐξ ἴσου συνάγουσαι τὸ μέγεθος’; Strabo xvii 793; Plin. v 62. Kalleris i 275 n. 4. Friedricksmeyer 225 n. 39.

214 Lattimore, St.. ‘The chlamys of Daochos I’, AJA lxxix (1975) 87.CrossRefGoogle Scholar

215 Kingsley (n. 210) 67 f.

216 Kingsley (n. 210) 68 n. 23.

217 Kingsley (n. 210) 67 f. n. 22.

218 Friedricksmeyer 225 f., 226 n. 41.

219 LSJ s.v. ‘συντέμνω’. Kingsley (n. 210) 67 n.20: ‘I have translated “adapting” because I am not sure whether the robes were recut, trimmed, shortened, or simply pinned on the right shoulder, Greek style’. Friedricksmeyer 224 n. 32.

220 Friedricksmeyer 225 f.

221 Lattimore (n. 214) 87–88 n. 21.

222 Friedricksmeyer 225 n. 37. H.L. Schanz, Greek sculptural groups. Archaic and Classical (New York 1980) 21 f., 22 f., nn. 37–38.

223 Lattimore (n. 214) 87 n. 13.

224 Σαατσόγλου–Παλιαδέλη (n. 91) 55 ff. no. 4 pls. 12–15; 65 ff. no.5 pl. 14.

225 Lattimore (n. 214) 87, 88 n. 16.

226 Σαατσόγλου–Παλιαδέλη (n. 91) 95 f.

227 Σαατσόγλου–Παλιαδέλη (n. 91) 55 ff. no. 4 pls. 12–13.

228 Andronikos, M., BCH lxxix (1955) 87 ff.CrossRefGoogle Scholar Σαατσόγλου–Παλιαδέλη (n. 91) 71 ff. no. 6 pls. 15–19.

229 Biesantz (n. 75) pl. 10 (K 19), pl. 12 (K 8), pl. 13 (K 28), pl. 15 (K 33).

230 Σαατσόγλου–Παλιαδέλη (n. 91) 155 ff., pls. 42–43.

231 See above n. 209.

232 v. Graeve (n. 12) 85 n. 12 pls. 39 (B6) and 40 (B7).

233 Σαατσόγλου–Παλιαδέλη (n. 91) 19 ff. pl. 4.

234 Biesantz (n. 75) pl. 12 (K 20).

235 Σαατσόγλου–Παλιαδέλη (n. 91) 24 f.

236 Σαατσόγλου–Παλιαδέλη (n. 91) 21 nn. 62–64.

237 The semi-circular chlamys is seen as a ‘new version’ of the Thessalian rectangular one, introduced by Philip II, according to Bieber (n. 84) 69. Friedricksmeyer 224: ‘We do not know when the new version was first introduced.’ But, he is sure (226 n. 41) that it was anyway a Macedonian invention existing or (less probably) conceived during their campaign to the east.

238 Bieber (v. 84) pls. 64.6 and 35.2. Morrow, K. D., Greek footwear and the dating of Greek sculpture (Madison, WI 1985)Google Scholar s.v. ‘krepides’ (passim).

239 Kalleris (n. 3) i 226 f. s.v. ‘κρηπίς’.

240 Σαατσόγλου–Παλιαδέλη (n. 91) no. 4 pls. 12–13; no. 6 pls. 15–20; no. 12 pls. 31–32; no. 20 pl. 43.

241 Andronikos (n. 8) figs. 58, 63, 66, 68.

242 Kingsley (n. 209) 68 n. 25.