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The swash of solitary waves on a plane beach: flow evolution, bed shear stress and run-up

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  18 August 2015

Nimish Pujara ,
Philip L.-F. Liu  and
Harry Yeh
Nimish Pujara*
Affiliation:
School of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Cornell University, Ithaca, NY 14853, USA
Philip L.-F. Liu
Affiliation:
School of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Cornell University, Ithaca, NY 14853, USA Institute of Hydrological and Oceanic Sciences, National Central University, Jhongli, Taoyuan 320, Taiwan
Harry Yeh
Affiliation:
School of Civil and Construction Engineering, Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR 97331, USA
*
†Email address for correspondence: [email protected]
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Abstract

The swash of solitary waves on a plane beach is studied using large-scale experiments. Ten wave cases are examined which range from non-breaking waves to plunging breakers. The focus of this study is on the influence of breaker type on flow evolution, spatiotemporal variations of bed shear stresses and run-up. Measurements are made of the local water depths, flow velocities and bed shear stresses (using a shear plate sensor) at various locations in the swash zone. The bed shear stress is significant near the tip of the swash during uprush and in the shallow flow during the later stages of downrush. In between, the flow evolution is dominated by gravity and follows an explicit solution to the nonlinear shallow water equations, i.e. the flow due to a dam break on a slope. The controlling scale of the flow evolution is the initial velocity of the shoreline immediately following waveform collapse, which can be predicted by measurements of wave height prior to breaking, but also shows an additional dependence on breaker type. The maximum onshore-directed bed shear stress increases significantly onshore of the stillwater shoreline for non-breaking waves and onshore of the waveform collapse point for breaking waves. A new normalization for the bed shear stress which uses the initial shoreline velocity is presented. Under this normalization, the variation of the maximum magnitudes of the bed shear stress with distance along the beach, which is normalized using the run-up, follows the same trend for different breaker types. For the uprush, the maximum dimensionless bed shear stress is approximately 0.01, whereas for the downrush, it is approximately 0.002.

JFM classification

Geophysical and Geological Flows: Shallow water flows Waves/Free-surface Flows: Solitary waves Waves/Free-surface Flows: Wave breaking
Type
Papers
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 779 , 25 September 2015 , pp. 556 - 597
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© 2015 Cambridge University Press 

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