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Surf and run-up on a beach: a uniform bore

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  19 April 2006

S. Hibberd  and
D. H. Peregrine
S. Hibberd
Affiliation:
School of Mathematics, University of Bristol Present address: Department of Theoretical Mechanics, University of Nottingham.
D. H. Peregrine
Affiliation:
School of Mathematics, University of Bristol
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Abstract

A numerical solution is obtained to describe the behaviour of a uniform bore over a sloping beach and the subsequent run-up and back-wash. The results exhibit features which have only previously been described in a qualitative manner. These include the formation’ of a landward-facing bore in the back-wash. A comprehensive set of results are presented for a typical initial subcritical bore height ratio.

Type
Research Article
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 95 , Issue 2 , 28 November 1979 , pp. 323 - 345
Copyright
© 1979 Cambridge University Press

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