Hostname: page-component-586b7cd67f-vdxz6 Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-12-01T04:13:56.305Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Recovery of steady periodic wave profiles from pressure measurements at the bed

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  02 January 2013

D. Clamond
Affiliation:
Laboratoire J.-A. Dieudonné, Université de Nice – Sophia Antipolis, Parc Valrose, 06108 Nice CEDEX 2, France
A. Constantin*
Affiliation:
Department of Mathematics, King’s College London, Strand, London WC2R 2LS, UK Faculty of Mathematics, University of Vienna, Nordbergstrasse 15, 1090 Vienna, Austria
*
Email address for correspondence: [email protected]

Abstract

We derive an equation relating the pressure at the flat bed and the profile of an irrotational steady water wave, valid for all classical solutions of the governing equations for water waves. This permits the recovery of the surface wave from pressure measurements at the bed. Although we focus on periodic waves, the extension to solitary waves is straightforward. We illustrate the usefulness of the equation beyond the realm of linear theory by investigating the regime of shallow-water waves of small amplitude and by presenting a numerical example.

Type
Papers
Copyright
©2013 Cambridge University Press

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Abramowitz, M. & Stegun, I. A. 1965 Handbook of Mathematical Functions. Dover.Google Scholar
Amick, C. J., Fraenkel, L. E. & Toland, J. F. 1982 On the Stokes conjecture for the wave of extreme form. Acta Mathematica 148, 193214.Google Scholar
Baquerizo, A. & Losada, M. A. 1995 Transfer function between wave height and wave pressure for progressive waves. Coast. Engng 24, 351353.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Bishop, C. T. & Donelan, M. A. 1987 Measuring waves with pressure transducers. Coast. Engng 11, 309328.Google Scholar
Clamond, D. 1998 Reconstruction du champ de vitesses d’une houle longue. C. R. Acad. Sci. Paris 326, 9194.Google Scholar
Clamond, D. 1999 Steady finite amplitude waves on a horizontal seabed of arbitrary depth. J. Fluid Mech. 398, 4560.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Clamond, D. 2003 Cnoidal-type surface waves in deep water. J. Fluid Mech. 489, 101120.Google Scholar
Constantin, A. 2006 The trajectories of particles in Stokes waves. Invent. Math. 166, 523535.Google Scholar
Constantin, A. 2011 Nonlinear water waves with applications to wave-current interactions and tsunamis. In CBMS-NSF Reg. Conf. Ser. Appl. Maths, 81. SIAM.Google Scholar
Constantin, A. 2012 On the recovery of solitary wave profiles from pressure measurements. J. Fluid Mech. 699, 373384.Google Scholar
Constantin, A. & Escher, J. 2011 Analyticity of periodic travelling free surface water waves with vorticity. Ann. Maths 173, 559568.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Constantin, A. & Strauss, W. 2010 Pressure beneath a Stokes wave. Commun. Pure Appl. Maths 63, 533557.Google Scholar
Coppel, W. A. 1965 Stability and Asymptotic Behaviour of Differential Equations. D. C. Heath.Google Scholar
Deconinck, B., Henderson, D., Oliveras, K. L. & Vasan, V. 2011 Recovering the water-wave surface from pressure measurements. In Proc.10th Intl Conf. on WAVES, Vancouver, July 25–29. PIMS (The Pacific Institute for the Mathematical Sciences), pp. 699-702.Google Scholar
Escher, J. & Schlurmann, T. 2008 On the recovery of the free surface from the pressure within periodic travelling water waves. J. Nonlin. Math. Phys. 15, 5057.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Fenton, J. D. 1988 The numerical solution of steady water wave problems. Comput. Geosci. 14 (3), 357368.Google Scholar
Fraenkel, L. E. 2000 An Introduction to Maximum Principles and Symmetry in Elliptic Problems. Cambridge University Press.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Henry, D. 2009 Steady periodic flow induced by the Korteweg-de Vries equation. Wave Motion 46, 403411.Google Scholar
Kuo, Y.-Y. & Chiu, J.-F. 1994 Transfer function between the wave height and wave pressure for progressive waves. Coast. Engng 23, 8193.Google Scholar
Okamoto, H. & Shōji, M. 2001 The Mathematical Theory of Permanent Progressive Water-Waves. World Scientific.Google Scholar
Oliveras, K. L., Vasan, V., Deconinck, B. & Henderson, D. 2012 Recovering the water-wave profile from pressure measurements. SIAM J. Appl. Maths 72–3, 897918.Google Scholar
Plotnikov, P. I. & Toland, J. F. 2002 The Fourier coefficients of Stokes waves. In Nonlinear Problems in Mathematical Physics and Related Topics, I,. pp. 303315. Kluwer/Plenum.Google Scholar
Press, W. H., Teukolsky, S. A., Vetterling, W. T. & Flannery, B. P. 2007 Numerical Recipes: The Art of Scientific Computing, 3rd edn. Cambridge University Press.Google Scholar
Spielvogel, E. R. 1970 A variational principle for waves of infinite depth. Arch. Rat. Mech. Anal. 39, 189205.Google Scholar
Toland, J. F. 1996 Stokes waves. Topol. Meth. Nonlin. Anal. 7, 148.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Tsai, C.-H., Huang, M.-C., Young, F.-J., Lin, Y.-C. & Li, H. W. 2005 On the recovery of surface wave by pressure transfer function. Ocean Engng 32, 12471259.Google Scholar
Varvaruca, E. 2006 Singularities of Bernoulli free boundaries. Commun. Part. Diff. Equ. 31, 14511477.Google Scholar