Hostname: page-component-cd9895bd7-gvvz8 Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-12-18T17:59:22.307Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

On the spectra of high-frequency wind waves

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  20 April 2006

Hsien-Ta Liu
Affiliation:
Flow Research Company, Kent, Washington 98031
Jung-Tai Lin
Affiliation:
Flow Research Company, Kent, Washington 98031 Present address: United Industries Corporation, 12835 Bellevue/Redmond Road, Bellevue, Washington 98005.

Abstract

Displacements of wind waves in the laboratory were measured with a laser displacement gauge, a recent,ly developed, optical, non-intrusive sensor, which avoids the meniscus effect's that severely limit the frequency response of conventional thin- wire gauges. The new gauge is a digital device, which has a maximum frequency response of 2.5 kHz. Its spatial resolution, which depends on the field of view, is t,ypically 0.016 cm for a 4 cm field of view. The wind-wave displacements were measured at several fetches for three wind speeds. Wave-variance spectra derived from these measurements indicate the presence of a quasi-equilibrium spectrum in the capillary-wave regime. The quasi-equilibrium spectrum follows an $f^{-\frac{7}{3}}$ power law that has been predicted on dimensional grounds. The spect'ral density increases with increasing wind speed from 4 to 10 m/s but is independent of the fetch from 3 to 5 m. In addition, the capillary-wave spectrum is practically unchanged when a, relatively long but. low-amplitude mechanical wave is superposed onto the wind- generat'cd waves.

Type
Research Article
Copyright
© 1982 Cambridge University Press

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Benjamin, T. B. & Feir, J. E. 1967 The disintegration of wave trains on deep water. Part 1. Theory. J. Fluid Mech. 27, 417430.Google Scholar
Chang, J. H., Wagner, R. N. & Yuen, H. C. 1978 Measurement of high frequency capillary waves on steep gravity waves. J. Fluid Mech. 86, 401413.Google Scholar
Cox, C. S. 1958 Measurement of slopes of high frequency wind waves. J. Mar. Res. 16, 199225.Google Scholar
Cox, C. S. & Munk, W. H. 1954 Measurements of the roughness of the sea surface from photographs of the sun's glitter. J. Opt. Soc. Am. 44, 838850.Google Scholar
Crapper, G. D. 1970 Non-linear capillary waves generated by steep gravity waves. J. Fluid Mech. 40, 149159.Google Scholar
Donelan, M. A., Hamilton, J. & Hui, W. H. 1980 Directional spectra of wind-generated waves. In preparation. (Also paper presented at AMS 3rd Conf. on Ocean–Atmosphere Interaction, Los Angeles, 30 January - 1 February).
Evans, D. D. & Shemdin, O. H. 1980 An investigation of the modulations of capillary and short gravity waves in the open ocean. J. Geophys. Res. 85, 50195024.Google Scholar
Jenkins, G. M. & Watts, D. G. 1968 Spectral Analysis and Its Applications. Holden-Day.
Kinsman, B. 1965 Wind Waves: Their Generation and Propagation on the Ocean Surface. Prentice-Hall.
Kitaigorodskii, S. A. 1961 Applications of the theory of similarity to the analysis of wind generated wave motions as a stochastic process. Izv. Geophys. Ser. Acad. Sci., USSR 1, 105117. no. 1, 73–80.Google Scholar
Larson, T. R. & Wright, J. W. 1975 Wind-generated gravity–capillary waves: laboratory measurements of temporal growth rates using microwave backscatter. J. Fluid Mech. 70, 417436.Google Scholar
Lin, J.-T., Gad-el-Hak, M. & Liu, H.-T. 1978 A study to conduct experiments concerning turbulent dispersion of oil slicks. U.S. Coast Guard Rep. no. CG-D-54–78; NTIS no. AD A058802.Google Scholar
Liu, H.-T., Katsaros, K. B. & Weissman, M. A. 1982 Dynamic response of thin-wire wave gauges. J. Geophys. Res. 87, 56865698.Google Scholar
Liu, H.-T. & Lin, J.-T. 1979 Effect of an oil slick on wind waves. In Proc. 1979 Oil Spill Conference, Los Angeles, pp. 665674. Am. Petroleum Inst.
Liu, H.-T. & Lin, J.-T. 1980 Laboratory studies on breaking waves. Presented at the AMS Third Conf. on Ocean–Atmosphere Interaction, Los Angeles, 30 January–1 February (abstract only).
Long, S. R. & Huang, N. E. 1976 On the variation and growth of wave-slope spectra in the capillary–gravity range with increasing wind. J. Fluid Mech. 77, 209228.Google Scholar
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1963 The generation of gravity waves by steep capillary waves. J. Fluid Mech. 16, 138159.Google Scholar
Miles, J. W. 1962 On the generation of surface waves by shear flows. J. Fluid Mech. 13, 433448.Google Scholar
Mitsuyasu, H. 1977 Measurement of the high-frequency spectrum of ocean surface waves. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 7, 882891.Google Scholar
Mitsuyasu, H. & Honda, T. 1974 The high-frequency spectrum of wind-generated waves. J. Oceanogr. Soc. Japan 30, 185198.Google Scholar
Mitsuyasu, H. & Honda, T. 1975 The high-frequency spectrum of wind-generated waves. Rep. Res. Inst. Appl. Mech. 22, 327355.Google Scholar
Mitsuyasu, H. & Rikiishi, K. 1978 The growth of duration-limited wind waves. J. Fluid Mech. 85, 705730.Google Scholar
Phillips, O. M. 1958 On some properties of the spectrum of wind–generated ocean waves. J. Mar. Res. 16, 231245.Google Scholar
Phillips, O. M. 1966 The Dynamics of the Upper Ocean. Cambridge University Press.
Phillips, O. M. 1967 On the generation of waves by turbulent wind. J. Fluid Mech. 2, 417445.Google Scholar
Phillips, O. M. 1977 Strong interaction in wind–wave fields. Air–Sea Interaction 1, NATO Conf. Ser. no. 5, pp. 373384.
Pierson, W. J. 1976 The theory and application of ocean wave measuring systems at and below sea surface on the land, from the aircraft and from spacecraft. NASA Contractor Rep. no. CR-2646.Google Scholar
Pierson, W. J. & Stacy, R. A. 1973 The elevation, slope, and curvature spectra of wind roughened sea surface. NASA Contractor Rep. no. CR-2247.Google Scholar
Plant, W. J. 1982 A relationship between wind stress and wave slope. J. Geophys. Res. 87, 19611967.Google Scholar
Plate, E. J. 1977 Wind-generated water surface waves: the laboratory evidence. Air–Sea Interaction 1, NATO Conf. Ser. no. 5, pp. 385401.Google Scholar
Plate, E. J., Chang, P. C. & Hidy, G. M. 1969 Experiments on the generation of small water waves by wind. J. Fluid Mech. 35, 625656.Google Scholar
Ramamonjiarisoa, A. & Coantic, M. 1976 Loi expérimentale de dispersion des vagues produites par le vent sur une faible longueur d'action. C. R. Acad. Sci. Paris B 282, 111113.Google Scholar
Sturm, G. V. & Sorrell, F. Y. 1973 Optical measurement technique and experimental comparison with wave height probes. Appl. Opt. 12, 19281933.Google Scholar
Toba, Y. 1973 Local balance in the air–sea boundary process III. J. Oceanogr. Soc. Japan 29, 209225.Google Scholar
Valenzuela, G. R. 1976 The growth of gravity–capillary waves in a coupled shear flow. J. Fluid Mech. 76, 229250.Google Scholar
White, D. A. & Tallmadge, J. A. 1965 Static menisci on the outside of cylinders. J. Fluid Mech. 23, 325336.Google Scholar
Wu, J. 1971 Slope and curvature distributions of wind-disturbed water surface. J. Opt. Soc. Am. 61, 852858.Google Scholar
Young, J. D. & Moore, R. K. 1977 Active microwave measurement from space of sea-surface winds. IEEE J. Ocean Engng OE-2, 309317.Google Scholar
Yu, H. Y. & Lin, J.-T. 1975 A technique for generating a turbulent boundary layer in a wind-wave tank. In Proc. 2nd U.S. Nat. Conf. on Wind Engineering Research, Colorado State University, Ft Collins, pp. IV.3.1–4.