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On slowly-varying Stokes waves

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  29 March 2006

Vincent H. Chu  and
Chiang C. Mei
Vincent H. Chu
Affiliation:
Department of Civil Engineering, Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Chiang C. Mei
Affiliation:
Department of Civil Engineering, Massachusetts Institute of Technology
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Abstract

A WKB-perturbation technique is applied to study the slow modulation of a Stokes wave train on the surface of water. It is found that new terms directly representing modulation rates must be included to extend the scope of validity of Whitham's theory based on an averaged Lagrangian. Two examples are discussed. In the first, a monochromatic wave normally incident on a mild beach is studied and the local rate of depth variation is found to affect the wave phase. In the second, the ‘side-band instability’ problem of Benjamin & Feir is discussed from both linear and non-linear points of view.

Type
Research Article
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 41 , Issue 4 , 15 May 1970 , pp. 873 - 887
Copyright
© 1970 Cambridge University Press

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