Hostname: page-component-cd9895bd7-dk4vv Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-12-18T18:38:55.169Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false
  • English
  • Français

Long wave generation on a sloping beach

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  29 March 2006

E. O. Tuck And  and
Li-San Hwang
E. O. Tuck And
Affiliation:
University of Adelaide, South Australia
Li-San Hwang
Affiliation:
Tetra Tech Incorporated, Pasadena, California
Get access Rights & Permissions [Opens in a new window]

Abstract

A general solution of the linear long-wave equation is obtained for arbitrary ground motion on a uniformly sloping beach. Numerical results are presented for specific shapes and time histories of ground motion. Near-shore large amplitude waves are also investigated using non-linear theory.

Type
Research Article
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 51 , Issue 3 , 8 February 1972 , pp. 449 - 461
Copyright
© 1972 Cambridge University Press

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Aida I.1969 Numerical experiments for tsunamis caused by moving deformations of the sea bottom. Bull. Earthquake Res. Inst., 47, 849.Google Scholar
Carrier G. F.1966 Gravity waves on water of variable depth. J. Fluid Mech., 24, 641.Google Scholar
Carrier, G. F. & Greenspan H. P.1958 Water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beach. J. Fluid Mech., 4, 97.Google Scholar
Hwang, L.S. & Divoky D.1970 Tsunami generation. J. Geophys. Res., 75, 6802.Google Scholar
Friedrichs K. O.1948 On the derivation of the shallow water theory. (Appendix to Stoker, 1948.) Comm. Pure & Appl. Math., 1, 81.Google Scholar
Kajiura K.1963 The leading wave of a tsunami. Bull. Earthquake Res. Inst., 41, 535.Google Scholar
Momoi T.1964 Tsunami in the vicinity of a wave origin. Bull. Earthquake Res. Inst., 42, 133.Google Scholar
Plafker G.1969 Tectonics of the March 27, 1964 Alaska Earthquake. Geophys. Survey Prof. Paper, no. 543-1.Google Scholar
Stoker J. J.1948 Formation of breakers and bores. Comm. Pure & Appl. Math., 1, 1.Google Scholar