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Influence of wind on extreme wave events: experimental and numerical approaches

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  14 December 2007

C. KHARIF ,
J.-P. GIOVANANGELI ,
J. TOUBOUL ,
L. GRARE  and
E. PELINOVSKY
C. KHARIF
Affiliation:
Institut de Recherche sur les Phénomènes Hors Equilibre, Aix-Marseille University, [email protected]
J.-P. GIOVANANGELI
Affiliation:
Institut de Recherche sur les Phénomènes Hors Equilibre, Aix-Marseille University, [email protected]
J. TOUBOUL
Affiliation:
Institut de Recherche sur les Phénomènes Hors Equilibre, Aix-Marseille University, [email protected]
L. GRARE
Affiliation:
Institut de Recherche sur les Phénomènes Hors Equilibre, Aix-Marseille University, [email protected]
E. PELINOVSKY
Affiliation:
Institute of Applied Physics, Nizhny Novgorod, Russia
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Abstract

The influence of wind on extreme wave events in deep water is investigated experimentally and numerically. A series of experiments conducted in the Large Air–Sea Interactions Facility (LASIF-Marseille, France) shows that wind blowing over a short wave group due to the dispersive focusing of a longer frequency-modulated wavetrain (chirped wave packet) may increase the time duration of the extreme wave event by delaying the defocusing stage. A detailed analysis of the experimental results suggests that extreme wave events may be sustained longer by the air flow separation occurring on the leeward side of the steep crests. Furthermore it is found that the frequency downshifting observed during the formation of the extreme wave event is more important when the wind velocity is larger. These experiments have pointed out that the transfer of momentum and energy is strongly increased during extreme wave events.

Two series of numerical simulations have been performed using a pressure distribution over the steep crests given by the Jeffreys sheltering theory. The first series corresponding to the dispersive focusing confirms the experimental results. The second series which corresponds to extreme wave events due to modulational instability, shows that wind sustains steep waves which then evolve into breaking waves. Furthermore, it was shown numerically that during extreme wave events the wind-driven current could play a significant role in their persistence.

Type
Papers
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 594 , 10 January 2008 , pp. 209 - 247
Copyright
Copyright © Cambridge University Press 2008

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