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Geometric properties of deep-water breaking waves

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  26 April 2006

P. Bonmarin
P. Bonmarin
Affiliation:
Institut de Mécanique Statistique de la Turbulence, Unité Mixte Université/C.N.R.S. n° 380033, 12, Avenue du Général Leclerc - 13003 Marseille, France
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Abstract

The time-space evolution of a steep water wave reaching the breaking stage is observed by means of a visualization technique. In particular, the asymmetry of the wave profile in the near-breaking region is displayed. Measurements at breaking onset on a sample of breaking waves show a relation between the rate of asymmetry growth and the breaker type. The shape evolution of a plunging crest after breaking has started, and the related splash-up phenomenon and its part in the air-entrainment process are also observed.

Type
Research Article
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 209 , December 1989 , pp. 405 - 433
Copyright
© 1989 Cambridge University Press

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