An alternative dispersion equation for water waves over an inclined bed

Abstract

A classical approach to extending the validity of Airy's dispersion relation for surface gravity waves by Friedrichs (1948) to gentle slopes (of special inclinations) is here re-examined with extended small-slope asymptotics using the full linear harmonic function theory combined with the method of steepest descent. A new dispersion relation emerges that appears to give significantly increased accuracy over sloping beds when tested on the plane beach problem with various forms of the mild-slope equation (MSE) and global error reductions of the order 50% are noted in some ‘from deep to shore’ computations. Unlike the classical formula, the new formula predicts a discontinuous wavenumber at a place where the bottom slope is discontinuous. Preliminary tests examining the reflection coefficient with the basic (early version) MSE over ramp-type profiles indicate that this is not a major problem and numerical results using wavenumber calculated by the new dispersion relation are qualitatively similar to those of the modified MSE (MMSE) developed in Chamberlain & Porter (1995). When the new formula is applied (with mass conservation) to the MMSE on the ramp, results are almost identical to those of a full linear model for inclines having a gradient up to 8:1.

It is also shown that the dominant asymptotic analysis, responsible for the new formula, is valid for all slope angles $\alpha{<}\pi/2$ and not just the special angles considered by Friedrichs.