Accurate refraction–diffraction equations for water waves on a variable-depth rough bottom

Abstract

The extended mild-slope equation and the modified mild-slope equation have been used successfully to study refraction–diffraction of linear water waves by steep bottom roughness. Their consistency has been questioned. A systematic derivation of these model equations exposes and illuminates their rationale. Their good performance stems from an accurate representation of (Class I) Bragg resonance. As a benchmark test case, we consider scattering by a sloping bottom with random roughness. The rates of scattering found for the mean field in both of the approximate models agree exactly with the full theory for scattering by small roughness. This greatly improves the limited agreement which was found for the mild-slope equation, and establishes the validity of the above model equations. The study involves operator calculus, a powerful method for simplifying problems with variable coefficients. The augmented mild-slope equation serves to consistently derive accurate model equations.