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The transformation of a solitary wave over an uneven bottom

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  29 March 2006

O. S. Madsen  and
C. C. Mei
O. S. Madsen
Affiliation:
Hydrodynamics Laboratory, Department of Civil Engineering, Massachusetts Institute of Technology
C. C. Mei
Affiliation:
Hydrodynamics Laboratory, Department of Civil Engineering, Massachusetts Institute of Technology
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Abstract

Based on a set of approximate equations for long waves over an uneven bottom, numerical results show that as a solitary wave climbs a slope the rate of amplitude increase depends on the initial amplitude as well as on the slope. Results are also obtained for a solitary wave progressing over a slope onto a shelf. On the shelf a disintegration of the initial wave into a train of solitary waves of decreasing amplitude is found. Experimental evidence is also presented.

Type
Research Article
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 39 , Issue 4 , 15 December 1969 , pp. 781 - 791
Copyright
© 1969 Cambridge University Press

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