Topographical scattering of gravity waves

Abstract

A systematic hierarchy of partial differential equations for linear gravity waves in water of variable depth is developed through the expansion of the average Lagrangian in powers of [mid ]∇[mid ] (h=depth, ∇h=slope). The first and second members of this hierarchy, the Helmholtz and conventional mild-slope equations, are second order. The third member is fourth order but may be approximated by Chamberlain & Porter's (1995) ‘modified mild-slope’ equation, which is second order and comprises terms in ∇²h and (∇h)² that are absent from the mild-slope equation. Approximate solutions of the mild-slope and modified mild-slope equations for topographical scattering are determined through an iterative sequence, starting from a geometrical-optics approximation (which neglects reflection), then a quasi-geometrical-optics approximation, and on to higher-order results. The resulting reflection coefficient for a ramp of uniform slope is compared with the results of numerical integrations of each of the mild-slope equation (Booij 1983), the modified mild-slope equation (Porter & Staziker 1995), and the full linear equations (Booij 1983). Also considered is a sequence of sinusoidal sandbars, for which Bragg resonance may yield rather strong reflection and for which the modified mild-slope approximation is in close agreement with Mei's (1985) asymptotic approximation.