Hostname: page-component-cd9895bd7-mkpzs Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-12-19T09:17:12.607Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false
  • English
  • Français

On the dispersion relation of random gravity waves. Part 2. An experiment

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  19 April 2006

Hisashi Mitsuyasu ,
Yi-Yu Kuo  and
Akira Masuda
Hisashi Mitsuyasu
Affiliation:
Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Kyushu University, Fukuoka, Japan
Yi-Yu Kuo
Affiliation:
Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Kyushu University, Fukuoka, Japan
Akira Masuda
Affiliation:
Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Kyushu University, Fukuoka, Japan
Get access Rights & Permissions [Opens in a new window]

Abstract

Random waves are generated by wind in the first half of a wind-wave flume. The latter half of the flume is kept free from wind to measure the waves unaffected by the wind and wind-generated current. The random waves in the latter area are measured with a linear array of wave gauges, and their phase velocities and coherences are determined by a usual technique of the cross-spectral analysis. The measured results are compared with the nonlinear theory of two-dimensional random waves, which has been presented in part 1 of this paper (Masuda, Kuo & Mitsuyasu 1979). Agreement between the theory and the experiment is satisfactory, and observed characteristics of the phase velocity and coherence of the spectral components can be attributed to the effects of the nonlinearity and angular dispersion of the random waves.

Type
Research Article
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 92 , Issue 4 , 27 June 1979 , pp. 731 - 749
Copyright
© 1979 Cambridge University Press

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Barrick, D. E. & Weber, B. L. 1977 On the nonlinear theory for gravity waves on the ocean's surface. Part II. Interpretation and applications. J. Phys. Oceanog. 7, 11–21.Google Scholar
Cummins, W. E. 1959 The determination of directional wave spectra in the TMB maneuvering-seakeeping basin. The determination of directional wave spectra in the TMB maneuvering-seakeeping basin.Rep. 1362.
Hasselmann, K. 1962 On the nonlinear energy transfer in a gravity-wave spectrum. Part 1. General theory. J. Fluid Mech. 12, 481–500.Google Scholar
Huang, N. E. & Tung, C. 1976 The dispersion relation for a nonlinear random gravity wave field. J. Fluid Mech. 75, 337–345.Google Scholar
Huang, N. E. & Tung, C. 1977 The influence of the directional energy distribution on the nonlinear dispersion relation in a random gravity wave field. J. Phys. Oceanog. 7, 403–414.Google Scholar
Kato, H. 1974 Calculation of the wave speed for a logarithmic drift current. Rep. Port and Harbour Res. Inst. 13, 3–32.Google Scholar
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. & Phillips, O. M. 1962 Phase velocity effects in tertiary wave interactions. J. Fluid Mech. 12, 333–336.Google Scholar
Masuda, A., Kuo, Y.-Y. & Mitsuyasu, H. 1979 On the dispersion relation of random gravity waves. Part 1. Theoretical framework. J. Fluid Mech. 92, 717–730.Google Scholar
Phillips, O. M. 1960 On the dynamics of unsteady gravity waves of finite amplitude. Part 1. The elementary interactions. J. Fluid Mech. 9, 193–217.Google Scholar
Ramamonjiarisoa, A. 1974 Contribution à l’étude de la structure statistique et des mécanismes de génération des vagues de vent. Ph.D. thèse, I'Université de Provence, Institute de Mécanique Statistique de la Turbulence.
Shemdin, O. H. 1972 Wind-generated current and phase speed of wind waves. J. Phys. Oceanog. 2, 411–419.Google Scholar
Tick, L. J. 1959 A nonlinear random model of gravity waves. I. J. Math. Mech. 8, 643–651.Google Scholar
Weber, B. L. & Barrick, D. E. 1977 On the nonlinear theory for gravity waves on the ocean's surface. Part I. Derivations. J. Phys. Oceanog. 7, 3–10.Google Scholar
Yefimov, V. V., Solov'Yev, YU. P. & Khristoforov, G. N. 1972 Observational determination of the phase velocities of spectral components of wind waves. Isv. Atmos. Oceanic Phys. 8, 435–446.Google Scholar