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On fine sediment transport by long waves in the swash zone of a plane beach

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  08 October 2003

DAVID PRITCHARD  and
ANDREW J. HOGG
DAVID PRITCHARD
Affiliation:
BP Institute for Multiphase Flow, University of Cambridge, Madingley Rise, Madingley Road, Cambridge CB3 0EZ, UK
ANDREW J. HOGG
Affiliation:
Centre for Environmental and Geophysical Flows, School of Mathematics, University of Bristol, University Walk, Bristol BS8 1TW, UK
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Abstract

We calculate suspended sediment transport, erosion and deposition under reflected long waves on a plane beach. Our method employs the shallow-water equations, and is based on the calculation of the concentration field in Lagrangian coordinates: this allows results to be obtained readily throughout the whole domain, including the often troublesome shoreline region. These results suggest that the tendency of wave-dominated muddy shores to export sediment and erode over long time scales is not due to wave forcing at infragravity frequencies, since the sediment transport under such waves is localized close to the shoreline, and is principally directed shorewards. They also provide easily reproduced test cases against which to validate the numerical methods used in more detailed studies of coastal sediment transport and morphodynamics.

Type
Papers
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 493 , 25 October 2003 , pp. 255 - 275
Copyright
© 2003 Cambridge University Press

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