Hostname: page-component-78c5997874-v9fdk Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-11-02T21:46:14.010Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

The initial-value problem for long waves of finite amplitude

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  28 March 2006

Robert R. Long
Affiliation:
Department of Mechanics, The Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore, Maryland

Abstract

Derived herein is a set of partial differential equations governing the propagation of an arbitrary, long-wave disturbance of small, but finite amplitude. The equations reduce to that of Boussinesq (1872) when the assumption is made that the disturbance is propagating in one direction only. The equations are hyperbolic with characteristic curves of constant slope. The initial-value problem can be solved very readily by numerical integration along characteristics. A few examples are included.

Type
Research Article
Copyright
© 1964 Cambridge University Press

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Airy, G. B. 1845 Tides and waves. Encyclopaedia Metropolitana, pp. 241396.
Benjamin, T. B. & Lighthill, M. J. 1954 On Cnoidal waves and bores. Proc. Roy. Soc. A, 224, 448460.Google Scholar
Boussinesq, J. 1872 Théorie des ondes et des remous qui se propagent le long d'un canal rectangulaire horizontal, en communiquant au liquide contenu dans ce canal des vitesses sensiblement pareilles de la surface au fond. J. Math. pures appl., 17, 55108.Google Scholar
Courant, R. & Friedrichs, K. 1948 Supersonic Flow and Shock Waves, pp. 3845. New York: Interscience.
Jeffreys, H. & Jeffreys, B. S. 1946 Methods of Mathematical Physics. Cambridge University Press.
Keulegan, G. H. & Patterson, G. W. 1940 Mathematical theory of irrotational translational waves. J. Res. Nat. Bur. Stand., Wash., 24, 47101.Google Scholar
Korteweg, D. J. & De Vries, G. 1895 On the change of form of long waves advancing in a rectangular channel, and on a new type of long stationary wave. Phil. Mag. 39, 422443.Google Scholar
Long, R. R. 1956 Solitary waves in one- and two-fluid systems. Tellus, 8, 460471.Google Scholar
Meyer, R. E. 1962 Note on the interaction of solitary waves. Tech. Rep. no. 1, ONR Contract Nonr 562(34), (NR-083-167).Google Scholar
Rayleigh, Lord 1876 On waves. Phil. Mag. 1, 257279.Google Scholar
Ursell, F. 1953 The long-wave paradox in the theory of gravity waves. Proc. Comb. Phil. Soc., 39, 685694.Google Scholar