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Enhanced extreme wave statistics of irregular waves due to accelerating following current over a submerged bar

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  09 January 2023

Jie Zhang Open the ORCID record for Jie Zhang [Opens in a new window] ,
Yuxiang Ma Open the ORCID record for Yuxiang Ma [Opens in a new window] ,
Ting Tan ,
Guohai Dong  and
Michel Benoit Open the ORCID record for Michel Benoit [Opens in a new window]
Jie Zhang
Affiliation:
State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116023, PR China
Yuxiang Ma*
Affiliation:
State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116023, PR China
Ting Tan
Affiliation:
State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116023, PR China
Guohai Dong
Affiliation:
State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116023, PR China
Michel Benoit
Affiliation:
EDF R&D, Laboratoire National d'Hydraulique et Environnement (LNHE), Chatou 78400, France LHSV, Ecole des Ponts, EDF R&D, Chatou 78400, France
*
†Email address for correspondence: [email protected]
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Abstract

We present experimental results of irregular long-crested waves propagating over a submerged trapezoidal bar with the presence of a background current in a wave flume. We investigate the non-equilibrium phenomenon (NEP) induced by significant changes of water depth and mean horizontal flow velocity as wave trains pass over the bar. Using skewness and kurtosis as proxies, we show evidence that an accelerating following current could increase the sea-state non-Gaussianity and enhance both the magnitude and spatial extent of the NEP. We also find that below a ‘saturation relative water depth’ $k_p h_2 \approx 0.5$ ($k_p$ being the peak wavenumber in the shallow area of depth $h_2$), although the NEP manifests, the decrease of the relative water depth does not further enhance the maximum skewness and kurtosis over the bar crest. This work highlights the nonlinear physics according to which a following current could provoke higher freak wave risk in coastal areas where modulation instability plays an insignificant role.

JFM classification

Geophysical and Geological Flows: Topographic effects Waves/Free-surface Flows: Surface gravity waves
Type
JFM Papers
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 954 , 10 January 2023 , A50
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Copyright
© The Author(s), 2023. Published by Cambridge University Press

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References

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