Published online by Cambridge University Press: 11 March 2016
As part of protectionist policy in eighteenth-century Britain, imported silks were banned from being sold. Although it is known that bans on imported textiles were widely broken, there have been few systematic studies of the contraband trade in silks. Using customs' records, this article shows how smuggling supplied the demand for imported consumer goods. The illegal trade in silk was diverse, bringing in a variety of products from Asia and Europe. The evidence supports a market segmentation analysis of the different products and their consumers. The trade with Asia supplied “populuxe goods” in the form of handkerchiefs that appealed to a broad, middling customer base. These were brought into the country by the East India Company's trading network. By contrast, continental Europe provided contraband for the high-fashion market. These silks were distributed in more informal and personal ways—travelers and diplomats being the main offenders. The official response to these black markets differed, with silks from Europe posing particular problems for enforcement. Finally, this article provides a reassessment of the transnational influences—specifically the relative importance of Asia and Europe—on production and consumption of consumer goods in Britain.
1 Although the legislation after 1707 covered Britain, the major centers of silk manufacturing were in England, as was the main center of consumption and fashion, London.
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33 Ibid., 37.
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37 Lemire and Riello, “East and West,” 892–96.
38 In 1770, from a total of 2,491 pieces, 1,318 pieces of silk were seized in London; in 1780, 1,243 pieces were seized in London from a total of 1,993 pieces.
39 Bowen, “‘So Alarming an Evil,’” 18.
40 I used Gale's digitized version of the Burney Collection of seventeenth- and eighteenth-century newspapers.
41 Elizabeth Evelynola Hoon, The Organization of the English Customs System, 1696–1786 (New York, 1938), 281.
42 For example, the sale at Hastings, Public Advertiser, 31 July 1770.
43 See evidence of Richard Bottrell, “Report from Select Committee on the Silk Trade,” House of Commons Papers; Reports of Committees (1831–32), 7757–58.
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45 Of a total of 2,691 pieces, 2,354 pieces of silk handkerchiefs were auctioned—87 percent of the total pieces sold.
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57 For example, see the cravat in the Victoria and Albert Museum collection, item number T.1738-191, http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O139761/cravat-unknown/.
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63 Rothstein, Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century, 289.
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68 The National Archives (hereafter TNA), Customs papers (hereafter CUST) 28/2, fols. 431–32.
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72 North, “The Physical Manifestation of an Abstraction,” 94, 100.
73 TNA, CUST 41/4, fol. 31.
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79 Bowen, “‘So Alarming an Evil,’” 1–31.
80 TNA, CUST 29/1 A–M, “East India Goods,” 22 March 1720.
81 TNA, CUST 29/4, fol. 75.
82 TNA, CUST 29/6, fols. 127–28.
83 TNA, CUST 41/5, fol. 313–17.
84 Arthur Lyon Cross, ed., Eighteenth Century Documents Relating to the Royal Forests, the Sheriffs and Smuggling Selected from the Shelburne Manuscripts in the William L Clements Library (New York, 1928), 252–54.
85 Bowen, “‘So Alarming an Evil,’” 4–6.
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88 Bottrell, “Report from Select Committee on the Silk Trade,” 447.
89 TNA, CUST 28/2, fols. 51–52.
90 TNA, CUST 28/2, fols. 258–59.
91 TNA, CUST 28/2, fol. 391.
92 TNA, CUST 28/2, fol. 423.
93 St. James's Chronicle, 3–5 December 1761.
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95 TNA, Treasury Papers (hereafter T) 1/449, fols. 112–13; 110–11; T 1/454, fols. 190–92.
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102 TNA, CUST 28/2, fol. 455.
103 TNA, CUST 41/10, fols. 235–38, 240.
104 TNA, CUST 29/1, “Baggage,” 13 December 1718.
105 TNA, CUST 29/1, “Baggage,” 14 July 1737.
106 TNA, T 29/27, fol. 402.
107 Cross, Eighteenth Century Documents, 243.
108 TNA, CUST 29/5, fol. 293
109 Buck, Dress in Eighteenth-Century England, 34.
110 North, “The Physical Manifestation of an Abstraction,” 94–95.
111 Rosemary Sweet, Cities and the Grand Tour: The British in Italy, c.1690–1820 (Cambridge, 2012), chap. 1.
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113 Sweet, Cities and the Grand Tour, 18.
114 Quoted in Black, Italy and the Grand Tour, 98.
115 London Evening Post, 1–3 September 1761.
116 “Report of Committee on the Silk Industry” (14 April 1766), 725.
117 Brian Fitzgerald, ed., Correspondence of Emily, Duchess of Leinster (1731–1814) (Dublin, 1949), 1:82, 89, 95. I owe this reference to Ruth Thorpe of Queens' University Belfast.
118 TNA, CUST 28/1, fol. 335.
119 TNA, CUST 41/4, fols. 177–78.
120 London Evening Post, 20–23 February 1773.
121 TNA, CUST 41/7, fol. 43.
122 Quoted in Mary M. Drummond, Villiers, George, Visct. Villiers (1751–1800). History of Parliament Online, accessed 1 September 2013, http://www.historyofparliamentonline.org/volume/1754-1790/member/villiers-george-1751-1800.
123 TNA, CUST 41/7, fol. 48.
124 TNA, CUST 41/7, fol. 49.
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