Hostname: page-component-586b7cd67f-tf8b9 Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-11-23T19:32:19.405Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Albert Smith, the Alpine Club, and the Invention of Mountaineering in Mid-Victorian Britain

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  10 January 2014

Extract

On August 12,1851, Albert Smith, a middle-aged journalist and entertainer, reached the summit of Mont Blanc with three Oxford students and sixteen guides. Smith and his companions were not the first people to climb Mont Blanc, the highest peak in the Alps. In 1786, two Chamonix natives climbed the peak, but over the next sixty-seven years the ascent of Mont Blanc was repeated only forty-five times. Yet after Albert Smith's dramatic account of this ascent made mountain climbing popular among the middle classes of Victorian England, Mont Blanc was climbed eighty-eight times in a five-year span. In 1852, John Murray's Handbook for Travellers in Switzerland, the bible for English tourists abroad, noted that the ascent “of Albert Smith, in 1851, has effectually popularized the enterprise.” While this could be construed as praise of Smith, it sounded very faint indeed when Murray asserted, “it is a somewhat remarkable fact that a large proportion of those who have made this ascent have been persons of unsound mind.” By 1858, however, Murray mentioned that twenty or thirty people now made the ascent each year, thanked Albert Smith for his help with the text, and purged all references to the mental health of mountaineers.

Over the next decade, Murray's Handbook recorded numerous first ascents in the Alps during what later became known as the “Golden Age” of mountaineering. This article attempts to explain why mountaineering became popular during these years and to suggest the broader significance of mountaineering to the construction of new middle class and imperial cultures.

Type
Research Article
Copyright
Copyright © North American Conference of British Studies 1995

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

1 See Smith, Albert, The Story of Mont Blanc (London, 1852)Google Scholar. For a reliable reconstruction of Mont Blanc ascents through 1854, see Brown, Thomas Graham and DeBeer, Gavin, The First Ascent of Mont Blanc (Oxford, 1957), pp. 433–42Google Scholar; for an early list, see d'Arve, Stephen [de Catelin, Camille], Histoire du Mont Blanc et de la Vallée de Chamonix (Paris, 1878), pp. 458–90Google Scholar.

2 Murray, John, Handbook for Switzerland (London, 1838), pp. 298–99Google Scholar; 5th ed. (1852), p. 336; 7th ed. (1856), p. 354; 8th ed. (1858), p. 354.

3 See Stephen, Leslie, The Playground of Europe (London, 1871), pp. 168Google Scholar; Cunningham, C. D. and Abney, W., Pioneers of the Alps (London, 1887), pp. 151Google Scholar; and Pollock, Frederick in Mountaineering, ed. Dent, C. T. (London, 1892)Google Scholar. Later works in this tradition include Clark, Ronald W., The Victorian Mountaineers (London, 1953)Google Scholar; Lunn, Arnold, A Century of Mountaineering, 1857–1957 (London, 1957)Google Scholar; and Unsworth, Walt, Hold the Heights: The Foundations of Mountaineering (London, 1993)Google Scholar.

4 Ebel, Johann Gottfried, A Traveller's Guide Through Switzerland (London, 1820), p. xivGoogle Scholar; Coolidge, W. A. B., Swiss Travel and Swiss Guidebooks (London, 1889), pp. 72, 182–83Google Scholar; and various editions of John Murray's Handbook for Travellers.

5 See Pemble, John, The Mediterranean Passion: Victorians and Edwardians in the South (Oxford, 1987)Google Scholar; and Buzard, James, The Beaten Track: European Tourism, Literature, and the Ways to “Culture,” 1800–1918 (Oxford, 1993)CrossRefGoogle Scholar.

6 Veyne, Paul, “L'alpinisme: une invention de la bourgeoisie,” L'Histoire, no. 11 (April 1979): 4149Google Scholar; Haley, Bruce, The Healthy Body and Victorian Culture (Cambridge, Mass., 1978)CrossRefGoogle Scholar; Robbins, David, “Sport, Hegemony and the Middle Class: The Victorian Mountaineers,” Theory, Culture and Society 4 (1987): 579601CrossRefGoogle Scholar. See also Robertson, David, “Mid-Victorians amongst the Alps,” in Nature and the Victorian Imagination, ed. Knoepflmacher, U. C. and Tennyson, G. B. (Berkeley, 1977), pp. 113–36Google Scholar; and Bernard, Paul P., The Rush to the Alps: The Evolution of Vacations in Switzerland (Boulder, 1978), pp. 2843Google Scholar.

7 For a survey which addresses these issues, see Holt, Richard, Sport and the British: A Modern History (Oxford, 1989)Google Scholar.

8 Mangan, J. A., Athleticism and the Victorian and Edwardian Public Schools: The Emergence and Consolidation of an Educational Ideology (Cambridge, 1981)Google Scholar; and recent volumes edited by Mangan.

9 Lowerson, John, Sport and the English Middle Classes, 1870–1914 (Manchester, 1993), p. 72Google Scholar.

10 See Mackenzie, John M., Propaganda and Empire: The Manipulation of Public Opinion (1880–1960) (Manchester, 1985)Google Scholar; and the debate generated by Wiener, Martin, English Culture and the Decline of the Industrial Spirit (Cambridge, 1980)Google Scholar.

11 See Thompson, F. M. L., “Social Control in Victorian Britain,” Economic History Review, 2d ser., 34 (1981): 189208CrossRefGoogle Scholar; Bailey, Peter, “Leisure, Culture and the Historian: Reviewing the First Generation of Leisure Historiography in Britain,” Leisure Studies 8 (1989): 107–27CrossRefGoogle Scholar; and Cunningham, Hugh, “Leisure and Culture,” in The Cambridge Social History of Britain, 1750–1950, ed. Thompson, F. M. L. (Cambridge, 1990), 2:279339CrossRefGoogle Scholar.

12 Cain, P. J. and Hopkins, A. G., British Imperialism: Innovation and Expansion, 1688–1914 (London, 1993), pp. 46, 33Google Scholar.

13 Ibid., pp. 31–34, 122–23.

14 For the phrase “decade of crisis,” see Hyam, Ronald, Britain's Imperial Century, 1815–1914 (New York, 1976), pp. 7085Google Scholar.

15 See Thorington, J. Monroe, Mont Blanc Sideshow: The Life and Times of Albert Smith (Philadelphia, 1934)Google Scholar; Fitzsimons, Raymund, The Baron of Piccadilly: The Travels and Entertainments of Albert Smith, 1816–1860 (London, 1967)Google Scholar; and Altick, Richard D., The Shows of London (Cambridge, Mass., 1978)Google Scholar.

16 Goodman, Walter, The Keeleys on Stage and at Home (London, 1885), p. 228Google Scholar. Byron's lines in Manfred (I.i.60–63) read: “Mont Blanc is the monarch of mountains, / They crowned him long ago / On a throne of rocks, in a robe of clouds, / With a diadem of snow.”

17 Illustrated London News 21 (December 25, 1852): 565Google Scholar; Punch 24 (June 18, 1853): 254Google Scholar; and Thorington, , Mont Blanc Sideshow, p. 168Google Scholar.

18 Illustrated London News 23 (December 10, 1853): 494Google Scholar; and The Times (September 18, 1854), (December 6, 1853); Thorington, , Mont Blanc Sideshow, pp. 157, 180, 188Google Scholar. Blakeney, T.S., “Mountaineering and the British Royal Family,” Alpine Journal 59 (19531954): 279Google Scholar. Smith's advertisements included lists of notables who had attended the show: Egyptian Hall File, Theatre Museum, London. Mike Simkin, Albert Smith: A Nineteenth Century Showman,” New Magic Lantern Journal 4 (1986): 6871Google Scholar.

19 The Times (November 30, 1852).

20 British Library, Add. MSS 35027, fol. 122; and the New York Public Library, Theatre Collection, Albert Smith, clipping file. Partially printed in Alpine Journal 41 (1929): 250–51Google Scholar.

21 For a recent account, see Cain and Hopkins, pp. 107–28; on the professions, see Reader, W. J., Professional Men: The Rise of the Professional Classes in Nineteenth Century England (London, 1966), pp. 207–11Google Scholar. For the earlier period, see the works of Earle, Peter, Langford, Paul, Davidoff, Leonore and Hall, Catherine, Koditschek, Theodore, Morris, R. J., and the articles in Journal of British Studies, vol. 32 (1993)Google Scholar.

22 Girouard, Mark, Sweetness and Light: The “Queen Anne” Movement, 1860–1900 (Oxford, 1977), pp. 14Google Scholar.

23 Banks, J. A., Prosperity and Parenthood: A Study of Family Planning among the Victorian Middle Classes (London, 1954), p. 101Google Scholar.

24 See, e.g., Bodleian Library, MS.Eng.lett.d.398, fols. 70–84. For the context of Smith's “Bohemian” journalism, see Cross, Nigel, The Common Writer: Life in Nineteenth Century Grub Street (Cambridge, 1985), pp. 90125Google Scholar; compare “higher” journalism in Collini, Stefan, Public Moralists: Political Thought and Intellectual Life in Britain, 1850–1930 (Oxford, 1991)Google Scholar.

25 Smith, Albert, The Natural History of ‘Stuck-up’ People (London, 1847), pp. viiiGoogle Scholar. Altick, Richard D., “Nineteenth-Century English Best-Sellers: A Further List,” Studies in Bibliography 22 (1969): 205Google Scholar. Smith, Albert, The Natural History of the Gent (New York, 1847), pp. 3031Google Scholar.

26 See Reach, Angus B., The Natural History of “Bores” (London, 1847)Google Scholar; and Thackeray, William Makepeace, The Book of Snobs (London, 1848)Google Scholar.

27 Albert Smith to William Howard Russell, n.d. [1860], Henry W. and Albert A. Berg Collection/Astor, Lenox, and Tilden Foundations. New York Public Library.

28 The Times (October 6, 1856); Daily Telegraph (May 24, 1860).

29 Jones, Gareth Stedman, “The ‘Cockney’ and the Nation, 1780–1988,” in Metropolis London: Histories and Representations since 1800, ed. Feldman, David and Jones, Gareth Stedman (London, 1989), p. 289Google Scholar. This representation of the “vulgar” middle-class London tourist continued into the 1890s. See Brendon, Piers, Thomas Cook: 150 Years of Popular Travel (London, 1991), pp. 81100Google Scholar.

30 Cook, E. T. and Wedderburn, A., eds., The Works of John Ruskin, 39 vols. (London, 1909), 36:117–18Google Scholar. [Merivale, Herman], “Alpine Travellers,” Edinburgh Review 104 (1856): 446Google Scholar.

31 Town Talk (October 3, 1859), in Broadley, A. M., Bath and Piccadilly (London, 1911), p. 203Google Scholar, Westminster Archives, Theatre Collection.

32 See Gunn, Simon, “The ‘Failure’ of the Victorian Middle Class: A Critique,” in The Culture of Capital: Art, Power, and the Nineteenth-Century Middle Class, ed. Wolff, Janet and Seed, John (Manchester, 1988), pp. 1743Google Scholar.

33 Dangar, D. F. O. and Blakeney, T. S., “The Rise of Modern Mountaineering and the Formation of the Alpine Club,” Alpine Journal 62 (1957): 26Google Scholar; and Alpine Club Archives, London, F7, B27, and B65.

34 Alfred Wills to James David Forbes, July 18, 1858, St. Andrew's University Library, Forbes 1858/77.

35 Mumm, Arnold Louis, The Alpine Club Register, 1857–1890, 3 vols. (London, 19231928)Google Scholar. Mumm was partner in the publisher Edward Arnold and member of a family of well-known wine merchants.

36 In 1935 a club officer declared the Alpine Club “a unique one—a club for gentlemen who also climb.” Pointing at a street sweeper in front of the Club on Saville Row, he added, “I mean that we would never elect that fellow even if he were the finest climber in the world.” See Russell, Scott, “Memoir,” in The Making of a Mountaineer, ed. Finch, George Ingle, 2d ed. (Bristol, 1988), p. 10Google Scholar.

37 By the 1870s, Alpine climbing was a European sport, not merely a British sport in Europe. Alpine clubs were founded in Switzerland (1863), Italy (1863), Austria (1869), Germany (1874), and France (1874). See Lejeune, Dominique, Les “alpinistes” en France à la fin du XIXe et au début du XXe siècle (vers 1875–1919) (Paris, 1988), pp. 2566Google Scholar; and Hansen, Peter Holger, “British Mountaineering, 1850–1914” (Ph.D. diss., Harvard University, 1991), pp. 471–75Google Scholar.

38 Rubinstein, W. D., “The Victorian Middle Classes: Wealth, Occupation and Geography,” Economic History Review, 2d ser., 30 (1977): 602–23Google Scholar; and Nenadic, Stana, “Businessmen, the Urban Middle Classes, and the ‘Dominance’ of Manufacturers in Nineteenth-Century Britain,” Economic History Review, 2d ser., 44 (1991): 6685Google Scholar.

39 An influential exponent of the older view is Clark, Victorian Mountaineers (n. 3 above). Annan, Noel, “The Intellectual Aristocracy,” in Studies in Social History, ed. Plumb, J. H. (London, 1955), pp. 241–87Google Scholar. On “gentlemanly capitalism,” see Cain and Hopkins (n. 12 above).

40 See Morris, R. J., “Clubs, Societies and Associations,” in Thompson, , ed. (n. 11 above), 3:395443Google Scholar.

41 For examples of each, see Haley (n. 6 above); Girouard, Mark, The Return to Camelot: Chivalry and the English Gentleman (New Haven, Conn., 1981)Google Scholar; Vance, Norman, Sinews of the Spirit: The Ideal of Christian Manliness in Victorian Literature and Religious Thought (Cambridge, 1985)Google Scholar; and Hyam, Ronald, Empire and Sexuality: The British Experience (Manchester, 1990), esp. pp. 2587Google Scholar.

42 Colley, Linda, “Britishness and Otherness: An Argument,” Journal of British Studies 31 (1992): 309–29CrossRefGoogle Scholar, and Forging the Nation, 1707–1837 (New Haven, Conn., 1992), pp. 164–93, 251–53Google Scholar; Newman, Gerald, The Rise of English Nationalism: A Cultural History, 1740–1830 (New York, 1987)Google Scholar; Bayly, C. A., Imperial Meridian: The British Empire and the World, 1780–1830 (London, 1989), pp. 100–63Google Scholar; and Stone, Lawrence, ed., An Imperial State at War: Britain from 1689 to 1815 (London, 1994)Google Scholar.

43 Roper, Michael and Tosh, John, eds., Manful Assertions: Masculinities in Britain since 1800 (London, 1991) p. 2Google Scholar, argue that masculinity is defined in relation to femininity and to social power and criticize recent historical works on manliness for leaving women out. On women and mountaineering, see Hansen, , “British Mountaineering,” pp. 275324Google Scholar.

44 [Swayne, George Carless], “Mountaineering—the Alpine Club,” Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine 86 (1859): 456Google Scholar.

45 [Forbes, James David], “Pedestrianism in Switzerland,” Quarterly Review 101 (1857): 286–88Google Scholar.

46 Harrison, Frederic, “Mountaineering,” in his My Alpine Jubilee, 1851–1907 (London, 1908), p. 108Google Scholar; reprinted from Westminster Review (October 1864).

47 Among the many works on these events, see Cunningham, Hugh, The Volunteer Movement (London, 1975)Google Scholar; and Hall, Catherine, “Competing Masculinities: Thomas Carlyle, John Stuart Mill and the Case of Governor Eyre,” in her White, Male and Middle-Class: Explorations in Feminism and History (New York, 1992), pp. 255–95Google Scholar.

48 Quoted in Chamberlain, Muriel E., “Pax Britannica”? British Foreign Policy, 1789–1914 (London, 1988), p. 112Google Scholar.

49 For a recent account of these societies, see Morus, Iwan, Schaffer, Simon, and Secord, Jim, “Scientific London,” in London—World City, ed. Fox, Celina (New Haven, Conn., 1992), pp. 129–42Google Scholar.

50 Ball, John, ed., Peaks, Passes and Glaciers: a Series of Excursions by Members of the Alpine Club (London, 1859), p. viGoogle Scholar.

51 Chambers's Journal, 3d ser., 12 (July 23, 1859): 63;Google ScholarFraser's Magazine 60 (August 1859): 232;Google ScholarBentley's Quarterly Review 2 (October 1859): 216;Google ScholarAthenaeum 33 (June 4, 1859): 738;Google ScholarThe Times (October 7, 1859), p. 9Google Scholar. Some reviews were written by climbers and provide evidence of how they saw themselves as well as how they were seen by others. John Ball, who edited the volume under review, may have written the articles in both Fraser's and Bentley's Quarterly. See Houghton, Walter E., ed., Wellesley Index to Victorian Periodicals (Toronto, 1972), 2:445Google Scholar.

52 Compare Pratt, Mary Louise, Imperial Eyes: Travel Writing and Transculturation (London, 1992), pp. 1537Google Scholar; and Goetzmann, William H., New Lands, New Men: America and the Second Great Age of Discovery (New York, 1986), pp. 97126Google Scholar.

53 See Riffenburgh, Beau, The Myth of the Explorer: The Press, Sensationalism, and Geographical Discovery (New York, 1993), pp. 2968Google Scholar; Livingstone, David N., The Geographical Tradition (Oxford, 1992)Google Scholar; and Stafford, Robert A., Scientist of Empire: Sir Roderick Murchison, Scientific Exploration and Victorian Imperialism (Cambridge, 1989)Google Scholar.

54 The Times (August 29, 1860).

55 Kennedy, E. S., ed., Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers, being Excursions by Members of the Alpine Club, 2d ser. (London, 1862), 1:vviGoogle Scholar.

56 Kennedy, ed., 2:4; Stephen (n. 3 above), pp. 73–74.

57 Kennedy, ed., 2:88.

58 Robertson, Pace, “Mid-Victorians amongst the Alps” (n. 6 above), p. 133Google Scholar.

59 Kennedy, ed., 1:392; 2:413, 403.

60 Tyndall, John, Mountaineering in 1861 (London, 1862), p. 55Google Scholar; Illustrated London News 39 (September 7, 1861): 241Google Scholar. On the use of Tennyson at the South Pole, see Huntford, Roland, The Last Place on Earth (New York, 1985), pp. 117, 522Google Scholar.

61 Hawkins, F. Vaughan, “Partial Ascent of Mont Cervin (Matterhorn),” in Vacation Tourists and Notes on Travel in 1860, ed. Galton, Francis (London, 1861), p. 289Google Scholar.

62 Felice Giordano to Quintino Sella, July 11, 1865; quoted in Rey, Guido, The Matterhorn, trans. Eaton, J. E. C. (London, 1907), p. 136Google Scholar.

63 Edward Whymper, diary, March 18, 1857, and June 4, 1858; Smythe, F. S., Edward Whymper (London, 1940), pp. 36, 59Google Scholar. Whymper's diary also refers to his frequent attendance at cricket matches and Baptist chapel. He spent his formative years as an apprentice in his father's engraving firm, which provided the illustrations to many books of exploration, including Livingstone's Missionary Travels.

64 Alpine Journal 6 (1873): 161Google Scholar.

65 Kennedy, ed. (n. 54 above), 2:224.

66 Whymper, Edward, Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860–69 (London, 1871), p. 392Google Scholar. See also Stewart, Gordon, “Whymper of the Matterhorn: A Victorian Tragedy,” History Today 33 (February 1983): 513Google Scholar; but for the broader context of the accident, see Hansen, , “British Mountaineering” (n. 37 above), pp. 162214Google Scholar.

67 The Times (July 27, 1865).

68 [Dickens, Charles], “Hardihood and Foolhardihood,” All the Year Round 14 (August 19, 1865): 86Google Scholar, and Foreign Climbs,” All the Year Round 14 (September 2, 1865): 137Google Scholar. Edward Whymper's annotation: “The second article was the reply that Charles Dickens made to the note I wrote to him.” Scott Polar Research Institute, Cambridge, MS 822/35.

69 Athletic Amusements,” Pall Mall Gazette 1 (August 5, 1865): 12Google Scholar; Trollope, Anthony, “The Alpine Club Man,” in Travelling Sketches (London, 1866), pp. 8990Google Scholar; reprinted from Pall Mall Gazette 2 (September 2, 1865): 4Google Scholar; Illustrated London News 47 (My 29, 1865): 82Google Scholar.

70 Hereford Brooke George, The Oberland and its Glaciers: Explored and Illustrated with Ice Axe and Camera (London, 1866), p. 196–97Google Scholar.

71 Ibid., p. 199.

72 Cook and Wedderburn, ed. (n. 30 above), 18:21, 89–90. Ruskin delivered his criticisms as a lecture in 1864, published them in Sesame and Lilies in June 1865, and revised them by October 1865.

73 Journal de Genève (August 19, 1865).

74 The Times (August 24, 1871).

75 See Anderson, Benedict, Imagined Communities (London, 1983)Google Scholar; and Driver, Felix, “Geography's Empire: Histories of Geographical Knowledge,” Environment and Planning D: Society and Space 10 (1992): 2340CrossRefGoogle Scholar.

76 Green, Martin, Dreams of Adventure, Deeds of Empire (New York, 1979), p. 3Google Scholar.

77 See Mackenzie, John M., ed., Imperialism and the Natural World (Manchester, 1990)Google Scholar; Mackenzie, John M., The Empire of Nature: Hunting Conservation and British Imperialism (Manchester, 1988)Google Scholar; and Ritvo, Harriet, The Animal Estate: The English and Other Creatures in the Victorian Age (Cambridge, Mass., 1987)Google Scholar.

78 Compare the emphasis on the anxieties of the “official mind” in the face of international competition in Robinson, Ronald and Gallagher, John, Africa and the Victorians (London, 1962)Google Scholar, with the dynamic of gentlemanly capitalism in Cain and Hopkins (n. 12 above).

79 [Stephen, Leslie], “Alpine Climbing,” in British Sports and Pastimes, ed. Trollope, Anthony (London, 1868), pp. 274–75Google Scholar; Cunningham, and Abney, , Pioneers of the Alps (n. 3 above), p. 14Google Scholar.

80 The Alpine Season,” Saturday Review 20 (September 23, 1865): 389Google Scholar; Athenaeum 44 (February 4, 1865), p. 157Google Scholar.