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A Group of Qalamkār Fabrics in the Israel Museum

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  01 January 2022

Alisa Baginski
Alisa Baginski*
Affiliation:
College of Textile Technology and Fashion, 12 Anna Frank Street, Ramat-Gan 52526, Israel
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Extract

Qalamkār-sāz, or chīt-sāz, is a traditional process of four colour (black, red, yellow and blue) cotton printing involving a combination of mordant stamping as well as painting colour directly onto the fabric. It is still practiced in Iran, particularly in Isfahan, Kashan and Yazd, as well as in India. These textiles have customarily been used for a variety of purposes, including tablecloths, curtains and clothing. This article focuses upon a little-known but ethnographically significant group of qalamkār textiles in the Israel Museum collection.

Type
Post-Safavid Carpets and Textiles
Information
Iranian Studies , Volume 25 , Issue 1-2: The Carpets and Textiles of Iran: New Perspectives in Research , 1992 , pp. 91 - 101
Copyright
Copyright © Association For Iranian Studies, Inc 1992

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References

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3 Cited in Buehler, op. cit., vol. I, p. 288.

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9 Irwin and Hall, op. cit., no. 33; pl. 20. In the field of this curtain, under the arch, is a large cypress tree growing from a vase, with peacocks to either side. The vase is set upon a mound, upon which are tigers, deer and birds and flowering plants. Flanking the central panel are compartments with cypresses and a medallion with floral ornaments. At the topof the curtain are a series of elaborate floral borders, and the sides and lower edge have a broad border of chevrons with flowers. At the top of the central panel is an inscription with the date 1255/1839-40.

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20 In these hangings, the colour green has been achieved by printing yellow over blue

21 For examples, see above, notes 9 and 15.

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23 The lion figure is often employed as a visual metaphor for the Shi'ite Imam ‘Ali; the sword held by the lion is known as Zu ‘l-Faqār.

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30 S tatement by Mr. Tuvia Jerushalami, a souvenir merchant from Isfahan who has recently emigrated to Israel.

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32 Ed. note: We are indebted to Professor Eleazar Birnbaum for his assistance in reading this inscription.

33 In 1830 the Jews of that city were forced to convert to Islam. From that time, these converts were known as “New Muslims”. However, while publically professing Islam, they continued to practice Judaism in private.