Hostname: page-component-cd9895bd7-7cvxr Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-12-28T00:58:11.946Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false
  • English
  • Français

From the Mediterranean Diet to the Diaita: The Epistemic Making of a Food Label

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  30 April 2019

Antonio José Marques da Silva
Antonio José Marques da Silva*
Affiliation:
Centro de Estudos em Arqueologia, Artes e Ciências do Património, University of Coimbra; Email: [email protected]
Get access Rights & Permissions [Opens in a new window]

Abstract:

The Mediterranean Diet was one of the first food-related nominations on the international cultural heritage list. By introducing the concepts of “epistemic community” and “governmentality” to analyze this heritagization process, I will evaluate the participation and consent of “the Mediterranean people” and their belief in a common identity based in a holistic conception of this food tradition—the so-called diaita. My goal is to demonstrate that the inscription’s proposal was motivated first by a long-term strategy aimed at promoting an “umbrella brand” of agro-food products extended to the whole Mediterranean space. Then, I will emphasize the attempt to design a model of property rights protection that is adequate for this food label, which was later presented within the realm of the United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization as a measure for safeguarding the diaita as an item of intangible cultural heritage. Finally, I will argue that this claim totally omits the rights of the numerous expatriates living outside this region.

Keywords

UNESCOintangible cultural heritageMediterranean dietdiaitafood traditionepistemic communitygovernmentalityfood labelMediterranean identitydiasporic communities
Type
Article
Information
International Journal of Cultural Property , Volume 25 , Issue 4 , November 2018 , pp. 573 - 595
Copyright
Copyright © International Cultural Property Society 2019 

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Adler, Emanuel, and Crawford, Beverly. 2004. “Normative Power: The European Practice of Region Building and the Case of the Euro-Mediterranean Partnership (EMP)” (working paper, University of California, Berkeley, CA), http://escholarship.org/uc/item/6xx6n5p4.Google Scholar
Agdomar, Michelle, 2007, “Removing the Greek from Feta and Adding Korbel to Champagne: The Paradox of Geographical. Indications in International Law.” Fordham Intellectual Property, Media and Entertainment Law Journal 18: 541–608.Google Scholar
Albesa, Isaac. 1995. “El negócio hortofrutícola y la promoción de la dieta mediterránea” Horticultura 108, October: 76–80.Google Scholar
Álvarez Plaza, Consuelo. 2014. “La dieta mediterránea: el milenario arte de comer, saber vivir y comensalidad entre dioses y hombres.” In Saberes culturais, Homenaje a José Luis García García, edited by Cátedra, M. and Devillard, M. J., 429–53. Gijón: Edicions Bellaterra.Google Scholar
Antonelli, Annarita, and Ilbert, Hélène. 2012. “La protection juridique des produits méditerranéens.” In CIHEAM, Mediterra2012, 343–60.Google Scholar
Antons, Christoph. 2015. “Epistemic Communities and the ‘People without History’: The Contribution of Intellectual Property Law to the ‘Safeguarding’ of Intangible Cultural Heritage.” In Diversity in Intellectual Property: Identities, Interests, and Intersections, edited by Calboli, I. and Ragavan, S., 453–71. New York: Cambridge University Press.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Aykan, Bahar. 2013. “How Participatory Is Participatory Heritage Management? The Politics of Safeguarding the Alevi Semah Ritual as Intangible Heritage.” International Journal of Cultural Property 20: 381–405.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Beck, Ulrich. 2006 [2004]. The Cosmopolitan Vision. Cambridge, UK: Polity Press.Google Scholar
Bérard, Laurence, and Marchenay, Phillipe. 2007. Produits de terroir: Comprendre et agir. Bourg-en-Bresse: Unité mixte de recherche Eco-Anthropologie et Ethnobiologie/Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique/Alimentec.Google Scholar
Bevilacqua, Salvatore. 2015. “La fortune de la diète méditerranéenne: De la médicalisation à la patrimonialisation.” Palaver 4, no. 1: 315–48.Google Scholar
Bortolotto, Chiara. 2010. “Addio al territorio? Nuovi scenari del patrimonio culturale immateriale.” LARES: Quadrimestrale di Studi Demoetnoantropologici. 76, no. 3: 354–73.Google Scholar
Bortolotto, Chiara. 2011. “Le trouble du patrimoine culturel immatériel. Introduction.” In Le patrimoine culturel immatériel: enjeux d”une nouvelle catégorie, edited by Bortolotto, C., 21–43. Paris: Maison des Sciences de l”Homme.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Bortolotto, Chiara. 2017a. “Immatériel, mais pas intouchable! Ce que les pratiques alimentaires ‘font’ au patrimoine.” Intervention at the colloquium Patrimoines alimentaires et gastropolitique: une approche critique et comparée, 16–17 November 2017, Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle, Paris, France.Google Scholar
Bortolotto, Chiara. 2017b. “Placing Intangible Cultural Heritage, Owning a Tradition, Affirming Sovereignty: The Role of Spatiality in the Practice of the 2003 Convention.” In The Routledge Companion to the Intangible Cultural Heritage, edited by Stefano, M. L. and Davis, P., 46–58. New York: Routledge.Google Scholar
Bottalico, Francesco, Medina, Francisco X., Capone, Roberto, El Bilali, Hamid, and Debs, Philipp. 2016. “Erosion of the Mediterranean Diet in Apulia Region, South-eastern Italy: Exploring Socio-cultural and Economic Dynamics.” Journal of Food and Nutrition Research 4, no. 4: 258–66.Google Scholar
Bourdieu, Pierre. 1979. La distinction: Critique sociale du jugement. Alençon: Les Éditions de Minuit.Google Scholar
Braudel, Fernand. 1985 [1977]. La Méditerranée: L’espace et l”histoire. Paris: Flammarion.Google Scholar
CIHEAM, ed. 2012. Mediterra2012: La diète méditerranéenne pour un développement régional durable. Paris: Presses de Sciences-Po.Google Scholar
Commission Mondiale de la Culture et du Développement. 1996 [1995]. Notre diversité créatrice, rapport de la Commission Mondiale de la Culture et du Développement, version condensée. Paris: UNESCO.Google Scholar
Dernini, Sandro. 2011. “The Erosion and the Renaissance of the Mediterranean Diet: A Sustainable Cultural Resource.” Quaderns de la Mediterrània 16: 75–82.Google Scholar
Dernini, Sandro, Berry, Elliot M., Bach-Faig, Anna, Belahsen, Rekia, Donini, Lorenzo M., Lairon, Denis, Serra-Majem, Lluís, and Cannella, Carlo. 2012. “Un modèle alimentaire construit par les scientifiques.” In CIHEAM, Mediterra2012, 73–91.Google Scholar
Finkielkraut, Alain. 1987. La défaite de la pensée. Barcelona: Anagrama.Google Scholar
Flandrin, Jean-Louis. 1997. “Assaisonnement, cuisine et diététique aux XIVe, XVe et XVIe siècles.” In Histoire de l”alimentation, edited by Flandrin, J.-L. and Montanari, M., 491–509. Paris: M. Fayard.Google Scholar
Florensa, Senén, and Aragall, Xavier. 2012. “Les mutations des sociétés méditerranéennes.” In CIHEAM, Mediterra2012, 95–120.Google Scholar
Foucault, Michel. 1966. Les mots et les choses. Paris: Gallimard.Google Scholar
Foucault, Michel. 1984. L’usage des plaisirs. Paris: Gallimard.Google Scholar
Foucault, Michel. 2004 [1978]. Sécurité, territoire, population. Cours au Collège de France (1977/1978). Paris: Gallimard/Seuil.Google Scholar
Giovani, Michael, ed. 2015. “UNESCO”s World Heritage Program: The Challenges and Ethics of Community Participation.” In Between Imagined Communities and Communities of Practice: Participation, Territory and the Making of Heritage, edited by Adell, N., Bendix, R. F., Bortolotto, C., and Tauschek, M., 93–108. Göttingen: Universitätsverlag Göttingen.Google Scholar
Helstosky, Carol. 2004. Garlic and Oil: Politics and Food in Italy. Oxford: Berg.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Herder, Johann G. 1834 [1784–91]. Idées sur la philosophie de l’histoire de l’Humanité, vol. 2 Paris: F. G. Levrault.Google Scholar
Herzfeld, Michael. 2005 [1997]. Cultural Intimacy: Social Poetics in the National-State. New York: Routledge.Google Scholar
Ilbert, Hélène, and Petit, Michel. 2005. “Politiques internationales: conflits marques et indications géographiques à l’OMC.” In Produits du terroir méditerranéen: conditions d”émergence, d”efficacité et de gouvernance, edited by Ilbert, H., 17–38. Montpellier: CIHEAM–Institut agronomique méditerranéen de Montpellier.Google Scholar
Ilbert, Hélène, and Petit, Michel. 2009. “Are Geographical Indications a Valid Property Right? Global Trends and Challenges.” Development Policy Review 27, no. 5: 503–28.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Ilbert, Hélène, and Rastoin, Jean-Louis. 2010. Indications géographiques et marques territoriales agricoles et agro-alimentaires dans l’espace méditerranéen: orientations stratégiques pour un développement durable. Paris: Institut de prospective économique du monde méditerranéen/Centre international de hautes études agronomiques méditerranéennes - Institut agronomique méditerranéen de Montpellier.Google Scholar
Keys, Ancel, and Keys, Margareth. 1975. Eat Well and Stay Well: The Mediterranean Way. New York: Doubleday.Google Scholar
Khader, Bichara. 2009. L’Europe pour la Méditerranée: De Barcelone à Barcelone [1995–2008]. Paris: L’Harmattan.Google Scholar
Kiple, Kenneth. 2008 [2007]. Uma história saborosa do mundo: Dez milénios de globalização alimentar. Cruz Quebrada: Casa das Letras.Google Scholar
Likudis, Zisimos. 2016. “Olive Oils with Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) and Protected Geographical Indication (PGI).” In Products from Olive Tree, edited by Boskou, Dimitrios and Clodoveo, Maria, 175–90. London: IntechOpen.Google Scholar
Maalouf, Amin. 2010. “Identité et perceptions mutuelles.” In Tendances interculturelles Euromed: Le rapport Anna Lindh, edited by the Anna Lindh Foundation, 52. Alexandrie: Anna Lindh Foundation.Google Scholar
Mombiela, Francisco, and Abis, Sébastien. 2010. “Une géopolitique au bout de la fourchette.” Quaderns de la Mediterrània 13: 77–84.Google Scholar
Montesquieu, Charles.-Louis de S. 1995 [1748]. Défense de l”esprit des lois a laquelle on a joint quelques éclaircissements. Paris: Gallimard.Google Scholar
Nestle, Marion. 2007 [2002]. Food Politics. How the Food Industry Influences Nutrition and Health. Berkeley: University of California Press.Google Scholar
Nunes, Naida N. 2002. “O açúcar de cana na ilha da Madeira: do Mediterrâneo ao Atlântico. Terminologia e tecnologia históricas e actuais da cultura açucareira.” PhD dissertation, University of Madeira, http://digituma.uma.pt/handle/10400.13/318.Google Scholar
Palma, Giulia, and Padilla, Martine. 2012. “La ‘méditerranéisation’ des modes alimentaires dans le monde.” In CIHEAM, Mediterra2012, 141–60.Google Scholar
Oberti, Bénédicte, and Padilla, Martine. 2010. “Comment les Méditerranéens se nourrissent.” In Mediterra2010: La diète méditerranéenne pour un développement régional durable, edited by CIHEAM, 106–13. Paris: CIHEAM.Google Scholar
Ouerfelli, Mohamed. 2002. “Les migrations liées aux plantations et à la production du sucre dans la Méditerranée à la fin du Moyen Âge.” In Migrations et diasporas méditerranéennes (Xe–XVIe siècles), edited by Balard, M. and Ducellier, A., 485–500. Paris: Publications de la Sorbonne.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Padilla, Martine 2000. “L’alimentation en Méditerranée, une et plurielle.” In Alimentation et nourriture autour de la Méditerranée, Économie et développement, edited by Padilla, M. and Oberti, B., 7–16. Paris: Éditions Karthala/CIHEAM.Google Scholar
Peralta, E. 2008. A memória do mar: Património, tradição e (re)imaginação identitária na Contemporaneidade. Lisbon: Universidade Técnica de Lisboa.Google Scholar
Pfeilstetter, Richard. 2015. “Heritage Entrepreneurship. Agency-Driven Promotion of the Mediterranean Diet in Spain.” International Journal of Heritage Studies 21, no. 3: 215–31.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Raustiala, Kal, and Munzer, Stephen R.. 2007. “The Global Struggle over Geographic Indications.” European Journal of International Law 18, no. 2: 337−65.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Rastoin, Jean-Louis. 2009. “Créer un label méditerranéen pour les produits agro-alimentaires d”origine : quelques justifications théoriques et empiriques.” In Les produits du terroir, les indications géographiques et le développement local durable des pays méditerranéens, edited by Tekelioglu, Y., Ilbert, H., and Tozanli, S., 19–27. Montpellier: CIHEAM-IAMM.Google Scholar
Reguant-Aleix, Joan, and Sensat, Francisco. 2012. “La diète méditerranéenne, patrimoine immatériel de l’humanité.” In CIHEAM, Mediterra2012, 491–510.Google Scholar
Rousseau, Jean-Jacques. 1755. Discours sur l”origine et les fondemens de l’inégalité parmi les hommes. Amsterdam: Marc Michel Rey.Google Scholar
Sanchez, Sylvie. 2007. Pizza connexion: Une séduction transculturelle. Paris: CNRS Éditions.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Serra-Majem, Lluís, and Medina, Francisco X., 2015. “The Mediterranean as an Intangible Heritage and Sustainable Food Culture.” In The Mediterranean Diet: An Evidence-Based Approach, edited by Preedy, V. R., and Watson, R. R., 37–39. Amsterdam: Elsevier.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Silva, António J. M. da. 2013. Un ingrédient du discours, vol. 1, Discours et pratiques alimentaires en Méditerranée. Saint Denis: Édilivre.Google Scholar
Silva, António J. M. da. 2015a. La diète méditerranéenne, vol. 2, Discours et pratiques alimentaires en Méditerranée. Paris: L’Harmattan.Google Scholar
Silva, António J. M. da. 2015b. “The Fable of the Cod and the Promised Sea: About Portuguese Tradition of Bacalhau.” In Heritages and Memories from the Sea, edited by Barata, F. T. and Rocha, J. M., 130–43. Évora: University of Evora.Google Scholar
Silva, António J. M. da. 2016a. Le régime UNESCO, vol. 3, Discours et pratiques alimentaires en Méditerranée. Charleston, SC: CreateSpace.Google Scholar
Silva, António J. M. da. 2016b. Diaita Nostra. Patrimoines alimentaires, identité et gouvernementalité en Méditerrannée. Evora: UNESCO Chair in Intangible Heritage and Traditional Know-How: Linking Heritage, University of Evora.Google Scholar
Smith, Laurajane. 2014. “Patrimoni immaterial: un repte per al discurs de patrimoni autoritzat?” Revista d’Etnologia de Catalunya 39: 12–22.Google Scholar
Sorre, Maximilien, and Sion, Jules. 1934. “Méditerranée: péninsules méditerranéennes, 1ère partie: Généralités et Espagne-Portugal.” In Géographie universelle, edited by Vidal de la Blache, P. and Gallois, L., vol. 7. Paris: Librairie Armand-Colin.Google Scholar
Sousa Santos, Boaventura de. 2002 [1998]. Reinventar a democracia. Lisbon: Gradhiva.Google Scholar
Sternhell, Zeel. 2006. Les anti-Lumières: Du XVIIIe siècle à la guerre froide. Paris: Fayard.Google Scholar
Thiesse, Anne-Marie. 1999. La création des identités nationales: Europe XVIIIe-XXe siècle. Paris: Seuil.Google Scholar
Tornatore, Jean-Louis 2012. “Retour d’anthropologie: ‘le repas gastronomique des Français’. Éléments d’ethnographie d’une distinction patrimoniale.” Ethnographiques 24. http://www.ethnographiques.org/2012.Google Scholar
Turmo, Isabel G., and Medina, Francisco X.. 2012. “Défis et responsabilités suite à la déclaration de la diète méditerranéenne comme patrimoine culturel immatériel de l”humanité (UNESCO).” Revue d’Ethnoécologie 2. http://ethnoecologie.revues.org/957.Google Scholar
Waldinger, Roger. 2015, The Cross-Border Connection: Immigrants, Emigrants, and Their Homelands. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
Willett, Walter C., Frank, Sacks, Antonia Trichopoulou, Greg, Drescher, Anna Ferro-Luzzi, Helsing, Elisabeth, and Trichopoulos, Dimitrios. 1995. “Mediterranean Diet Pyramid: A Cultural Model for Healthy Eating.” American Journal Clinical Nutrition 61, suppl. 6: 1402S–1406S.CrossRefGoogle Scholar