Published online by Cambridge University Press: 07 September 2009
‘The toga was a garment worthy of the masters of the world, flowing, solemn, eloquent but with over-complication in its arrangement and a little too much emphatic affectation in the self-conscious tumult of its folds.’
2. Carcopino, J., Daily Life in Ancient Rome: the People and the City at the Height of the Empire (trans. Lorimer, E. O., London, 1941), 155Google Scholar.
3. Wilson, L. M., The Roman Toga (Baltimore, 1924), 127Google Scholar.
4. Vergil, , Aeneid 1.282Google Scholar.
5. Pottier, E. in the preface of Heuzey, L., Histoire du costume antique d 'aprés des études sur le modéle vivant (Paris, 1922), xGoogle Scholar.
6. Wilson, L. M., op. cit. (n. 2) and The Clothing of the Ancient Romans (Baltimore, 1938)Google Scholar; hereafter, Wilson (1924) and Wilson (1938).
7. Wilson (1938), 45.
8. Bardon, M. F. Dandre, Costume des anciens peuples à I'usage des artistes (new edition ed. Cochin, M., Paris, 1784–1786)Google Scholar.
9. Sebesta, J. L. and Bonfante, L., The World of Roman Costume (Wisconsin, 1994)Google Scholar.
10. Lurie, A., Language of Clothes (London, 1981), 12–13Google Scholar.
11. Bieber, M., Ancient Copies. Contributions to the History of Greek and Roman Art (New York, 1977)Google Scholar and Griechische Kleidung (Berlin and Leipzig, 1928)Google Scholar.
12. Stone, S., ‘The Toga: From National to Ceremonial Costume’ in Sebesta and Bonfante, op. cit. (n.9), 21Google Scholar.
13. Ross, C. F., ‘The Reconstruction of the Later Toga’, AJA 15 (1911), 24CrossRefGoogle Scholar.
14. Reynolds, J., Seventh Discourse (1776)Google Scholar, as quoted by Ribeiro, A., Dress in Eighteenth Century Europe 1715–1789 (London, 1984), 163Google Scholar.
15. Wilson (1924), 43. See also Stone, op. cit. (n. 13), 17–21.
16. See, e.g., Gregory, A. P., ‘Powerful Images: responses to portraits and the political uses of images in Rome’, JRA 7 (1994), 80–99Google Scholar.
17. Suet, . Augustus 40.5Google Scholar.
18. Carcopino, , op. cit. (n. 1), 155Google Scholar.
19. On the colours of Roman costume, see J. L. Sebesta, ‘Tunica Ralla, Tunica Spissa: The Colors and Textiles of Roman Costume’ in Sebesta, and Bonfante, , op. cit. (n. 9), 65–76Google Scholar.
20. Whittaker, C. R., ‘The Poor’ in Giardina, A. (ed.), The Romans (trans. L. G. Cochrane, Chicago and London, 1993), 286Google Scholar.
21. Martial 6.11.7.
22. On the textiles and clothes of the provinces, see e.g. The articles by B. Goldman and L. A. Roussin in Sebesta and Bonfante, op. cit. (n. 9).
23. Wild, J. P., The Textiles from Vindolanda (1973–1975) (Haltwhistle, 1977)Google Scholar.
24. See the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, rooms 43 and 101.
25. See Brewster, E. Hampson, ‘The Synthesisof the Romans’, TAPA 49 (1918), 131–43Google Scholar; McDaniel, W. B., ‘Roman Dinner Garments’, CP 20 (1925), 268–70Google Scholar.
26. Cic, . Phil. 5.12.31Google Scholar.
27. Juvenal 3.147.
28. Juvenal 3.183.
29. Diocletian's edict on maximum prices: Frank, T., An Economic Survey of Ancient Rome v (Baltimore, 1940), 307–421Google Scholar.
30. On the wearing of patched clothes, see Ammianus Marcellinus 15.12.2.
31. Lurie, , op. cit. (n. 10), 8Google Scholar.
32. Ammianus Marcellinus 14.6.9.
33. Theodosian Code 19.10.
34. Quintilian 11.3.137 and 156.
35. Tertullian, De Pallio.
36. Vergil, , Aeneid 1.282Google Scholar.
37. Juvenal 8.234.
38. Trevor-Roper, H., ‘The Invention of Tradition: the Highland Tradition of Scotland’ in Hobsbawm, E. and Ranger, T. (eds.), The Invention of Tradition (Cambridge, 1983), 15–41Google Scholar.
39. Pliny, , Ep. 4.11.1Google Scholar.
40. Athenaeus 5.213b.
41. Aulus Gellius 6.12.3–4.
42. Livy 3.26.9.
43. Tacitus, , Dialogus 7.16Google Scholar.
44. Pliny, , Ep. 2.9.2Google Scholar.
45. Theodosian Code 10.21.3.
46. Seneca, , Ep. 114.21Google Scholar.
47. Suet, . Caligula 35.1Google Scholar.
48. Horace, , Ep. 1.19.13Google Scholar.
49. See Servius, , In Aeneidem 1.282; Nonius. 14.867LGoogle Scholar.
50. Quintilian 11.3.137.
51. Martial 2.39. For a brief discussion of toga-wearing women, see J. L. Sebesta, ‘Symbolism in the Costume of the Roman Woman’ in Sebesta, and Bonfante, , op. cit. (n. 9), 50Google Scholar and Hinds, S., ‘The Poetess and the Reader: further steps towards Sulpicia’, Hermathena 143 (Winter 1987)Google Scholar.
52. Cic, . Phil. 2.44Google Scholar.
53. Martial 3.46.1: ‘endless exertion in a toga’.
54. Braund, D., ‘Function and Dysfunction: personal patronage in Roman imperialism’ in Wallace-Hadrill, A., Patronage in Ancient Society (London, 1989), 137Google Scholar.
55. Dupont, F., Daily Life in Ancient Rome (trans. Woodall, C., Oxford, 1992), 259Google Scholar.
56. Aen. 1.279.
57. Aen. 1.33.
58. Cic, . De Oral. 3Google Scholar.42 and Dio Cassius 41.17.1.
59. Tertullian, DePallio 1 (Anti-Nicene Library edition, The Writings of Tertullian, vol. 3, 181–200). See Barnes, T. D., Tertullian: A Historical and Literary Source (Oxford, 1971Google Scholar) and Fredouille, J. C., Tertullien et la conversion de la culture antique (Paris, 1972)Google Scholar.
60. Charles-Picard, G., La civilisation de I'Afrique romaine (Paris, 1959), 229Google Scholar.
61. Tertullian, , De Pallio 5Google Scholar.
62. Wilson (1924), 115.
63. Tertullian, , De Pallio 5Google Scholar.
64. Martial 8.28.
65. Letter from Pope Celestine I to the bishops of Vienna and Narbonne, as quoted by Macalister, R. A. S., Ecclesiastical Vestments (London, 1896), 26–27Google Scholar.
66. Hollander, A., Seeing Through Clothes (New York, 1978), 311Google Scholar.