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Published online by Cambridge University Press: 24 July 2012
The origins of the little-known Scottish linen damask industry are traced to a shift in fashion demand in this intriguing study of surviving fabrics and documents.
1 This is one of a series of articles prepared from materials gathered by the author in Britain with the support of a grant from the American Philosophical Society, Penrose Fund. I am indebted also to Dr. Fritz Redlich and Dr. Ralph Andreano for valuable suggestions incorporated into this essay.
2 Diaper — in textile history, a term used to describe certain simple fabrics, principally of linen or cotton, showing small geometric patterns, usually in one color. The patterns are normally based on lozenge units but sometimes show other small patterns not clearly defined and closely repeated over the surface.
3 Examples of these damasks are preserved in the Victoria and Albert Museum at London. See Six, Jan, “Zestiende-Eeuwsch Damast,” Het Huis Oud + Nieuw, XI (1913), p. 163Google Scholar, fig. 2; [p. 168], Pl. XLVI; [p. 169], Pl. XLVII; [p. 172], Pl. XLVIII. Also, Six, J[an], “Paschier Lamertijn,” Oud Holland, XXI (1913), p. 93, fig. 3 opp. p. 96.Google Scholar
4 Six, , “Paschier Lamertijn” Oud Holland, XXI (1913), p. 94.Google Scholar The napkin is preserved in the Victoria and Albert Museum.
5 Flemish cloth weavers were active in Scotland at least as early as 1475. In 1587, James VI passed acts to induce Flemish weavers and flax growers to settle in Scotland. By 1606, several Flemish families were teaching Scots their latest methods of flax culture, spinning, and weaving. None of these accounts appears to mention damask weavers specifically. See Arnold Fleming, J., Flemish Influence in Britain (Glasgow, 1930), vol. I, pp. 100–101, 245, 352–54, 358.Google Scholar
6 SirMarwick, James D., Edinburgh Guilds and Crafts (Edinburgh, 1909), p. 175.Google Scholar
7 Edinburgh Town Council Minutes (City Archives, City Chambers, Edinburgh), typed transcript, p. 214. Ochiltree, who served as deacon of the weavers' guild, is mentioned in other documents as well. His activities will serve as the subject of a forthcoming article.
8 Dunbar, E[dward] Dunbar, Social Life in Former Days (Edinburgh, 1865), p. 209ff.Google Scholar
9 Burnett, George, The Family of Burnett of Leys (Aberdeen, 1901), pp. 295, 314.Google Scholar
10 Scott-Moncrieff W. S., Robert (ed.), The Household Book of Lady Grisell Baillie 1692–1733 (Edinburgh, 1911), p. 177.Google Scholar
11 Acts of the Scottish Parliament (Edinburgh, 1814–1844), vol. IV, pp. 625–26.
12 Ibid., vol. VIII, pp. 348–49.
13 Ibid., vol. IX, pp. 311–13.
14 I have not found in any Scottish source exact figures for customs duties levied on continental damasks imported into Scotland early in the eighteenth century. Presumably, they were the same as those in effect in other parts of Great Britain. In 1714, Dutch damask tabling drew a base duty of between 2/7 and 6/10 per pound sterling of value, depending on the width of the cloth. Silesia tabling was liable to 3/4 base duty per pound sterling. In addition, these fabrics may have been liable to additional duties. See Edgar, William, Vectigalium Systema (London, 1714), pp. 152, 154–55, 194.Google Scholar
15 Glover, [Richard], The substance of the evidence delivered to a committee of the Honourable House of Commons by the merchants and traders of London concerned in the trade to Germany and Holland and of the dealers in foreign linen (London, 1774), pp. 40–41.Google Scholar
16 See The Statistical Account of Scotland (Edinburgh, 1794), vol. XII, pp. 145–46, where Ogilvy's manufactory is described in some detail. It is clearly stated that some of the weaving was done at the company's looms on the premises while other work was put out to country weavers.
17 Minutes of the Board of Trustees, vol. X, p. 210, meeting of March 4, 1772.
18 Ibid., vol. X, p. 209, meeting of March 4, 1772.
19 Ibid., vol. XI, p. 255, meeting of July 27, 1774; also pp. 267–68.
20 Ibid., vol. V, p. 155, report of March 4, 1747.
21 [Mackintosh, William], An Essay on Ways and Means for Inclosing, Fallowing, Planting, etc., Scotland (Edinburgh, 1729), pp. 228–29.Google Scholar
22 Amot, Hugo, The History of Edinburgh from the Earliest Accounts to the Present Time (Edinburgh, 1788), p. 595.Google Scholar
23 In chronological order, and on the date of their first appearance in the records of the competitions, the most important companies may be listed as follows: 1796 — William Howden Son and Co., Canongate; 1807 — Robert Plenderleath and Co., Edinburgh, and James and George Spence, Dunfermline; 1810 — Robert and James Kerr, Dunfermline; 1813 — John and Thomas Russell, Dunfermline, and Dewar McRobin and Co., Dunfermline; 1814 — Inglis Duncanson and Co., Dunfermline, and Thomas Wilson and Sons, Dunfermline; 1815 — Messrs. Sutherland, Dunfermline; 1817 — William Hunt and Son, Dunfermline, and George Ingles and Son, Dunfermline; 1818 — D. Dewar and Co., Dunfermline; 1819 — Robert and George Birrell, Dunfermline. See Minutes of the Board of Trustees, vol. CXXII, under these dates.
24 Statement dated at Dunfermline, May 27, 1807, in manuscript copy of a pamphlet entitled Regulation of the Weaver's Prices of Dunfermline, Charlestown, Printed for James Lothian and sold by Andrew Drysdale, 1812. Preserved in the Central Library at Dunferm line, Fifeshire.
25 patton, D[avid], The History of Dunfermline gather'd from Good Autority, personal knoledge and hear-say (Dunfermline, 1813).Google Scholar Rare; a copy preserved in the National Library of Scotland, Edinburgh.
26 Bremner, David, The Industries of Scotland (Edinburgh, 1869), pp. 242–43.Google Scholar
27 Five of the factories were located at or near Dunferrnline: Ersldne Beveridge and Co. (still in business); David Birrell; D. Dewar, Son and Sons; W. Hunt and Son; and W. Kinnis. The Logie Works of A. and D. Edward and Co. was at Dundee, and the firm of J. Shield and Co. operated at Perth.
28 In the collection of the Huntly House Museum at Edinburgh there is a damask table cloth with a pattern commemorating the visit of George IV to Edinburgh in 1822. It is dated in that year and signed, also in the weave, “WOVE BY I. GUTHRIE EDINR.” John Guthrie first appears in the Post-Office Annual “Directory for Edinburgh in the 1818–19 number as “Guthrie, John, damask manufacturer, Drumsheugh.” The entry remains the same until the 1823–24 number where his appointment to the King's custom is noted. He is listed with this title through the number of 1837–38. His name is listed for the last time in the 1858–59 issue of the Directory.