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Published online by Cambridge University Press: 25 January 2012
No one has yet written the history of the Roman palate, such as it became when the successes of that people had given occasion for its artificial cultivation. The Roman, consequently, has never been contemplated on this side of his character. This is not merely an omission in archaeology, it is a blank left in the annals of taste. And the omission is the more remarkable, as most other subjects of antiquity have been fathomed by the learned, down even to the shoe and the caliga.
page 283 note a I do not mean to ignore the paper contributed by Professor Jowett to Dr. Smith's Classical Dictionary, though its position in that popular compilation is perhaps to be regretted. Mr. Jowett's contribution scatet mendis. He inflects the plural of tuber into tuberes; boletus (the large mushroom) is translated “truffle,” the real Latin for which is tuber; and in the Ccena Metelli he explains lumbi (“côtelettes”) by haunches; altilia (“poultry”) by rich meats, &c. &c.
page 284 note a Pliny, Hist. Nat. ix. 17, 30.
page 284 note b There have been several editions of this Roman Cookery Book. That of Dr. Martin Lister, Physician to Queen Anne, entitled “Apicii Coelii de Opsoniis et Condimentis sive Arte Coquinaria Libri Decem,” was printed in the small number of 120 copies, by Bowyer, London, 1705. A second edition of this text, longe auctior et emendatior, was given by Theod. Jans. Almeloveen. Amsterdam, 1709. Since the present paper was read, a new Edition has appeared by Chr. Theophil. Schuch, Heidelberg, 1867, comprising a revised text founded on the collation of seven MSS. with the princeps editio (Venice s. a.) with notes critical and explanatory, which however do not appear to add much to our understanding of the book.
page 284 note c Apicius, lib. iii. c. 2.
page 284 note d Ib. lib. iv. c. 3.
page 284 note e Lib. viii. c. 7.
page 284 note f Dr. Lister's Preface.
page 284 note g Lib. v. c. 1.
page 284 note h Lib. viii. c 7.
page 284 note i Ibid.
page 284 note k In Vita Heliogabali, Peter's edit. vol. i. p. 215.
page 284 note l Ibid.
page 285 note a Hist. Nat. xix. 41.
page 285 note b The references made in and to itself prove this: “Et hunc preecondies sicut hfedum Tarpeianum” (lib. viii. c. 8). “Minutal ex jeoinoribus et pulmonibus leporis, invenies inter lepores quemadmodum facies.” (lib. iv. c. 3), &c. &c.
page 285 note c “Aceipies cumanam mundam” (lib. v. c. 4). “Aceipies pisces” (lib. iv. c. 2). “Accipies pullum” (lib. vi. c. 9). “Accipies cochleas” (lib. vii. c. 16.)
page 285 note d Dr. Lister's name is not mentioned in the Classical Dictionary sub voce Apicius. See note b on preceding page.
page 285 note e Sat. xiv. vv. 129, 130. “Hesternum solitus medio servare minutal Septembri.
page 286 note a Act ii. scene 1, T. 55.
page 286 note b “Patellarios intelligunt Lares, quibus cibus in patella adportabatur.” Weise, in loc. cit.
page 286 note c In far later days Pliny jestingly described an old-fashioned Latin dinner thus :—“Lactucas singulae, cochleæ ternæ, ova bina, alica cum mulso et nive, olivæ Bæticae, cucurbitæ, bulbi, alia mille non minus lauta.” (Lib. i. epist. 15.) This Roman taste is otherwise curiously illustrated in Columella (ii. 22). Among other things which a Roman might lawfully do, even festis diebus, et feriis publicis, was the cultivation of vegetables, “in horto quicquid olerum causâ facias, omne licet.”
page 278 note a So when Gaius, the lawyer, wrote, it was an artificium in the eye of the law. (Dig. xxi tit. 1, c. 18, p. 1.) “Venditor qui optimum coquum esse dixerit, optimum in eo artificio præstare debet.”
page 278 note b ὤκɛίλɛν ɛίς πολυτɛλῆ δίαιταν, ἐκ τῆς παλαὶας σωφροσύνης. (Athen. vi. 109.)
page 278 note c Livy's date is corroborated by the expressions occurring almost passim in Plautus, and referring both to the disgraced Roman cookery and to the new Greek forms. The cook in “Pseudolus” (Act iii. sc. 2), says—
“Non ego item cœnam condio, ut alii coci,
Qui mihi condita prata in patinis proferunt,
Boves qui convivas faciunt, herbasque oggerunt,
Eas herbas herbis aliis porrb condiunt.”
This change attracted the notice even of the grave declaimer Lucan, lib. 1, vv. 163, 164—
“Non auro, tectisve modus, mensasque priores
Aspcrnata fames.”
page 287 note d A cook in a play of Euphron is made to say (Athenæus, i. 13)—
Oὐὺὲν ὁ μάγɛιρος τοῦ ποιητοῦ διαφέρɛι,
O μοῦς γάρ ἐστιν ἑκατέρῳ τούωnu; τέχνη.
page 288 note a Pseudolus, Act 3, se. 3—
Ballio. Quid tu ? divinis condimentis utere,
Quî prorogare vitam possis hominibus,
Qui ea culpes condimenta.
Cocus. Audacter dicito;
Nam vel ducenos annos poterunt vivere,
Meas qui esitabunt escas quas condivero;
Nam ego cicilendrum quando in patinas indidi,
Aut sipolindrum aut macidem aut sancaptidem;
Eæ ipsæ se patinæ fervefaciunt illioo.
Hæc ad Neptuni pecudes condimenta sunt.
Terrestres pecudes cicimandro condio,
Aut hapalopside aut cataractria.
Ballio. At te Juppiter
Diique omnes perdant, cum condimentis tuis,
Cumque omnibus tuis mendaciis.
page 287 note b Lib. xiv. c. 6, p. 16.
page 287 note c Lib. viii. c. 16. “Velut ante devictarum gentium Numantinus et Isauricus, ita Sergius Orata et Licinius Murena captorum piscium lsetabantur vocabulis.” See Festus also, and Macrobius, lib. ii. c. 11.
page 289 note a Athenæus, lib. vi. c. 108. Macrob. lib. ii. c. 13.
page 289 note b Plin. Hist. Nat. lib. viii. c. 82. “Glires, quos censoriæ leges, princepsque M. Scaurns in consulatu, non alio modo ccenis ademere, quam conchylia, aut ex alio orbe conyectas aves.” See also the same author for similar prohibitions which affected pork. Ibid. c. 77.
page 289 note c Athenæus, lib. i. c. 36.
page 289 note d Lib. ix. c. 10 ; lib. v. c. 4.
page 290 note a Lib. viii. c. 9.
page 290 note b Lib. iv. c. 2. “Ad aquam calidam coques.” See also Dr. Lister's note to lib. x., c. 13. Its classical name would seem to be duplex vas.
page 290 note c See the expression “in ambigas sublatæ.” Lib. vi., c. 7.
page 290 note d Lib. viii. c. 6. “Vel certe mittitur in reticulo, vel in sportella, et diligenter constringitur.” Ibid. c. 7, “in sportella ferventi ollæ submittis.”
page 290 note e Lib. x. c. 1. “Adjicies in patinam, co-operies gypsabis, coques in furno.”
page 291 note f Lib. viii. c. 6. “Hædum macerabis in furno in patella quæ oleum habeat.”
page 291 note g Lib. ix. c. 13. “in formella piscem formabis.”
page 291 note h Lib. viii. c. 8. “Omento teges, et charta colliges lacinias et surclas.” Lib ix. c. 10 : “Impletur et consuitur, involvitur in charta et sic supra vaporem ignis in operculo componitur.”
page 291 note i Lib. viii. c. 1. “Cum impleta fuerit constringitur ilia pars quae impleta est ex lino, et mittitur in zymam (zemam?)”
page 291 note j “Omento tegis,” &c.; lib. v. c. 3. “Si volueris, eadem tubera omento porcino involves et assabis ;” lib. vii. c. 14.
page 291 note a “In frigidam mittes;” lib.ix.c.4. “Insuper niyem sub ora asperges;” lib. iv. c. 1. Dr. Lister's note upon the last passage is—” Super repositorium quoddam ad nivem continendam accommodatum, latis oris.”
page 291 note b Lib. ii. c. 4.
page 291 note c Lib. viii. c. 8 : “suspendes ad fumum.”
page 292 note a Cinnamon, if it be the same as the cinnamum of the Romans, does not occur in our author. Though early known at Rome, it was used for the pyre, not in the kitchen—for the dead, never for the living— (see Martial and Ovid). This is an indicium of the age of the work under review.
page 292 note b See Dr. Lister's learned notes to lib. i. c. 30, and lib. vii. c. 5, of Apicius. (It may be observed in addition, that the coins of Cyrene show the laser to have been an umbelliferous plant. The Assafœtida plant (Ferula Assafœtida, L.) which has commonly been taken for the ancient laser, is indeed of this natural order, and is actually used in modern Arab cookery; Dr. Lister however is strongly opposed to this interpretation. See also, Pacho, Rél. d'un Voyage dans le Cyrénaïque, Paris, 1827, p. 251.)
page 292 note c Sugar was known to exist. Lucan (lib. iii. v. 237) says—” Quique bibunt tenera dulces ab arundine succos.”
page 292 note d i.e. merum, defrutum, carsenum, mulsum, passum—all but merum were wines boiled down to different degrees, sometimes with honey. All the Italian wines were more or less strong, taking much time to mature. (Athenæus, lib. i. c. 48.)
page 293 note a Hor. lib. ii. sat. 4 : “Non alia (i.e. muria) quam qua Byzantia putuit orca.” Apul. Metamorph. lib. x. c. 16 : “pisces exotico jure perfusos.” See also Dr. Lister's note, lib. vii. c. 7.
page 293 note b See Dr. Lister's notes to Apicius, lib. i. c. 7, and alibi. He is wrong in thinking that the word liquamen was of late introduction. It was not so, for in the triclinium of a house excavated at Pompeii, under the superintendence of Edward Palkener, Esq., there were found two small amphorte, having painted on them in black letters “liquamen optimum.” See the interesting report of that gentleman in the Museum of Classical Antiquities, vol. ii. p. 79.
page 294 note a Lib. viii. c. 1. So Horace, lib. ii. sat. 4.
page 294 note b Aulularia, act i. sc. 3; vv. 17, 18 :
“Cultrum, securim, pistillum, mortarium,
Quæ utenda vasa semper vicini rogant.”
page 294 note c Dr. Lister's addendum to his own preface, quoting Petronius. See also lib. iv. c. 2, “super asperges piper tritum.”
page 294 note d Passim.
page 294 note e Lib. iv. c. 1.
page 294 note f Lib. iv. c. 2.
page 294 note g “Elixatur in aqua marina cum lauri turionibus et anetho.” Lib. viii. c. 1.
page 294 note h Lib. iv. c. 2. “Allegas fasciculos rutre et origani; et subinde fasciculos cum apua elixabis. Cum cocta fuerit, projicies fasciculos.”
page 294 note i Lib. vii. c. 9.
page 294 note k This phrase is curious enough in itself to deserve illustration. It is true old-fashioned Plautian Latinity, and if other proof were wanting would of itself demonstrate the genuineness of the Apician text:—Captivi, act i. sc. 2, vv. 12, 13.
“Quasi, cum caletur, cochleæ in occulto latent,
Suo sibi succo vivunt, ros si non cadit.”
Amphitruo, act i. sc. 1, v. 116:—
“Atque hunc telo suo sibi malitia, à, foribus pellere.”
Ibid. v. 174:—
“Illic homo à me sibi malam rem arassit jumento suo.”
Asinaria, act iv. sc. 2, vv. 16 and 17:—
“Cum suo sibi gnato una ad amicum de die potare.”
The phrase is a rare remnant of the old familiar language of Eome, such as slaves talked so long, that their masters ultimately adopted it—a language of which Plautus gives us glimpses, and which the graffiti may perhaps help to restore. When Varius was emperor, this phrase of the kitchen was as rife as when Plautus wrote—a proof that occasionally slang has been long lived.
page 295 note a Lib. ii. c. 1. Isicia de loligine. “Sublatis crinibus in pulmentum tundes, sicut assolet pulpa; et in mortario et in liquamine diligentur frioatur; et exinde isicia plassantur.” Lib. ix. c. 1. Aliter Locusta. “Isicis de catida ejus sic facies: warn prius demes, et elixas ; deinde pulpam concides, et cum liquamine pipere et ovis isicia formabis.” To get a perfect recipe for marine isicia these two recipes must be taken together. Apicius also says (lib. ii. c. 1): “Isicia fiunt marina de cammaris et astacis: deloligine: de sepia: de locusta.”
page 296 note a Lib. ix. c. 1. Jus in Locusta et Carabo induta. “Cepam pallacanam concisam, piper, ligusticum, careum, cuminum, caryotam ; mel, acetum, vinum, liquamen, oleum, defrutum. Hoc jus adjicito sinapi in elixaturis.”
page 296 note b Ibid. Locustas assas sic facies. Aperiuntur locuste, ut assolet, cum testa sua et infunditur iis piperatum, coriandratum, et sic in craticula assantur: cum siccaverint, adjicies iis in craticula, quoties siccaverint, quousque assantur bene, et inferes.”
page 297 note c Lib. iv. c. 2. “Apuam lavas, ex oleo maceras, in cumana compones, adjicies oleum, liquamen, vinum. Alligas fasciculos rutæ et origanum: et subinde fasciculos cum aqua elixabis, cum cocta fuerit, projicies fasciculos et piper asperges, et inferes.”
page 296 note d Ibid. “Mullos rades, in patina munda compones, adjicies liquamen ut ferveat; cum ferbuerit, mulsum mittes aut passum, piper asperges et inferes.”
page 296 note e Ibid. “Pisces qualeslibet rades et curatos mittes, cepas siccas Ascalonias, yel alterius generis concides in patinam, et pisces super compones; adjicies liquamen, oleum; cum coctum fuerit, salsum coctum in medio pones, addendum acetum.”
page 297 note a Lib. x. c. 1. “Piscem curabis diligenter, mittis in mortarium salem, coriandri semen, conteres bene, volves cum, adjicies in patinam, cooperies, gypsabis, coques in furno: cum coctus fuerit, tolles: aceto acerrimo asperges et inferes.”
page 297 note b Lib. ix. c. 4. “—sic farcies sepiam coctam; cerebella elixa enervata teres cum pipere, cui commisces ova cruda quod satis erit, piper integrum, isicia minuta, et sic consues et in bullientem ollam mittes, ita ut coire impensa possit.”
page 297 note c Lib. x. c. 1. Jus diabotanwv in pisce frixo. “Piscem quemlibet cures, salias, friges; teres piper, cuminum, coriandri semen, laceris radicem, origanum, rutam fricabis ; suffundes acetum ; adjicies caryotam, mel, defrutum, oleum; liquamine temperabis, refundes in cacabum, facias ut ferveat. Cum ferbuerit piscem frictum perfundes, piper asperges et inferes.”
page 297 note d Ibid. Jus in pisce elixo. “Piper, ligusticum, cuminum, cepullam, origanum, nucleos, caryotam; mel, acetum, liquamen, sinapi, oleum modicè, jus calidum. Si velis, uvam passam.”
page 298 note a Lib. viii. c. 5. “Liquamen, piper, laser, et olei modicum.”
page 298 note b Ibid. “Piper, ligusticum, apii semen, cuminum, origanum, cepam siccam, uvam passam ; mel, acetum, vinum, liquamen, oleum, defrutum.”
page 298 note c Ibid. “Teres piper, ligusticum, careum, apii semen ; suffundes mel, acetum, liquamen, oleum ; calefacies, amylo obligas, et carnem perfundes.”
page 298 note d Ibid. “Piper, ligusticum, foeniculi semen, origanum, nucleos, caryotam; mel, acetum, liquamen, sinape et oleum.”
page 298 note e Lib. viii. c. 6. “Pipere, liquamine coques, cum phaseolis paratariis ; suffundes liquamen, piper, laser, cuminum tritum, buccellas panis, oleum modicè.”
page 298 note f Ibid. “Mittes in cacabum copadia, cepam, coriandrum minutim succides. Teres piper, ligusticum, cuminum; liquamen, oleum, yinum : coques; exinanies in patina, amylo obligas.”
page 298 note g Ibid. “Hsedi cocturam, ubi eum ex liquamine et oleo coxeris incisum, infundes in pipere, lasere, liquamine, oleo modice, et in craticula assabis; eodem juro continges, piper asperges et inferes.”
page 299 note a Lib. viii. c. 4. “Piper, ligusticum, cuminum, mentham siccam, thymum, silphium; euffundes virram; adjicies Damascena macerata; mel, vinum, liquamen, acetum, passum ad colorem, oleum ; agitabis fasciculo origani et menthse siccæ.”
page 299 note b Lib. viii. c. 2. “Piper, nardostachyum, folium, apii semen, cepam aridam, rutam viridem: mel, acetum, liquamen; adjectas caryotas, uvam passam et oleum.”
page 299 note c Ibid. “Piper, ligusticum, cepullam, origanum, nucleos, caryotas; mel, liquamen, sinape, acetum, oleum.”
page 299 note d Ibid. “Ceryum elixabis et subassabis; teres piper, ligusticum, careum, apii semen; suffundes mel, acetum, liquamen, oleum calefactum ; amylo obligas et carnem perfundes.”
page 299 note e Schneidewin's edition, lib. xiii. epig. 92.
page 299 note f Comm. lib. v. c. 12. “Britanni leporem gustare fas non putant.”
page 299 note g Lib. viii. c. 8. “In leporem madidum. In aqua pracoquitur modice, deinde componitur in patina, ac coquitur oleo in furno, et cum prope sit coctus, ex alio oleo pertangito et de conditura infra scripta: teres piper, satureiam, cepam, rutam, apii semen; liquamen, laser, vinum et modicum olei; aliquoties versatur; in ipsa percoquitur conditura.”
page 300 note a In the original “pulpam de ipso lepore.” The word pulpa was used in this sense as regarded other animals, their own interiors being used for stuffing them. It is this sense which gives point and application to the expression “Lepus tute, pulpamentum quseris.” (Eunuch, act iii. sc. 1, v. 36,) i.e. having all the materials necessary in yourself, you seek them from a foreign source.
page 300 note b Lib. viii. c. 8. “In leporem farsum. Nucleos integros, amygdala, nuces juglandes concisas, piperis grana solida, pulpam de ipsa lepore et ovis fractis, obligatur de omento porcino in furno. Sic iterum impensam facies. Rutam, piper satis, cepam, satureiam, dactylos, liquamen, caraanum vel conditum: diu combulliat, donee spisset et sic perfundatur.”
page 300 note c Ibid. “Jus album in assum leporem. Piper, ligusticum, cuminum, apii semen, ovi duri modicum; trituram colligis, et facies globum ex ea. In cacabulo coques liquamen, yinum, oleum, acetum modice, cepullum concisam; postea globum condimentorum mittes et agitabis origano vel satureia. Si opus fuerit, amylas.”
page 300 note d Ibid. “Ornas, adjicies in lancem oleum, liquamen, acetum, passum; cepam concides et rutam viridem, thymum subcultrabis, et sic apponis.”
page 300 note e Ibid. “Coques ex vino, liquamine, aqua, sinapi modico, anetho, porro cum capillo suo. Cum se coxerit, condies ; piper, satureiam, cepe rotundum, dactylos, Damascena duo; vinum, liquamen, carænum, oleum modice ; stringatur amylo, modicum bulliat, conditur lepus, in patina perfunditur.”
page 301 note a Hist. Nat. lib. viii. c. 72. “Neque alio ex animali munerosior materiaganeee, quinquaginta prope sapores, cum cæteris singuli.”
page 301 note b Suet, in vita Claudii, c. 40.
page 301 note c See Dr. Lister's note to lib. vii. c. 3.
page 301 note e Plin. Hist. Nat. lib. viii. c. 77. “Inventum M. Apioii: fico arida carica saginatis, ac satietate necatis repente mulsi potu dato.”
page 302 note a Lib. yiii. c. 1. “Spongiatur et sic aspergitur ei sal, cuminum tritum, et sic manet. Alia die mittitur in furnum ; cum coctus fuerit, perfunditur piper tritum. Condimentum aprinum; mel, liquamen, carænum et passum.”
page 302 note b Ibid. “Aquâ marinâ cum ramulis' lauri aprum elixas, quousque madescat; corium ei tolles; cum sale, sinape, aceto inferes.”
page 302 note c Ibid. “Piper, cuminum frictum, apii semen, mentham, thymum, satureiam, cnici flores, nucleos tostos, amygdala tosta, mel, vinum, liquamen, acetum, oleum modice.”
page 302 note d Lib. vii. c. 6. “Piper, thymum, cuminum, apii semen, fœniculum, rutam, baccam myrthæ, uvam passam; mulso temperabis, agitabis ramo satureiæ.”
page 302 note e Ibid. “Piper, apii semen, careum, satureiam, cnici flores, cepullam, amygdala tosta, caryotam, liquamen, oleum, sinapis modicum; defruto coloras.”
page 302 note f Lib. vii. c. 5. “Assaturam assam a furno simplicem. Sale plurimo conspersam cum melle inferes.”
page 302 note g Ibid. “Myrthse siccse baccam exenteratam cum cumino, pipere, melle, liquamine, defruto, et oleo teres, et fervefactum amylas, carnem elixam sale subassatam, perfundes; piper asperges et inferes.”
page 302 note h Lib. vii. c. 6. “Piper, petroselinum, cepullam, caryotam; liquamen, acetum, olei modicum ; perfundis calido jure.”
page 303 note a Lib. vii. c. 7. “Ventrem. porcinum. Bene exinanies, aceto et sale, postea aqua lavas, et sic hac impensa imples. Pulpam porcinam tunsam tritam, ita ut enervata commisceas cerebella tria et ova cruda, cui nucleos infundis, et piper integrum mittis, et hoc jure temperas. Teres piper, ligusticum, silphium, anisum, ningiber, rutse modicum, liquamen optimum, et olei modicum: reples aqualiculum, sic ut laxamentum habeat, ne dissiliat in coctura; surclas, amylas, et in ollam bullientem submittis, levas et pungis acu ne crepet; cum ad dimidias coctus fuerit, levas et ad fumum suspendis ut coloretur, et denuo eum perlaxabis, ut coqui possit; deinde liquamine, mero, oleo modico ; et cultello aperies, et cum liquamine et ligustico apponis.”
page 303 note b Lib. vii. c. 8. “Lumbuli et renes assi itafiunt. Aperiuntur in duas partes, ita ut expansi sint, et aspergitur iis piper tritum, nuclei, et coriandrum concisum minutatim factum, et semen fceniculi tritum ; deinde lumbuli revolvuntur et consuuntur et involvuntur in omento, et sic prsedurantur in oleo et liquamine ; inde assantur in clibano vel craticula.”
page 303 note c Lib. vii. c. 3. “Ficatum præcidis ad cannam, infundis in liquamine; piper, ligusticum, baccas lauri duas; involves in omento, et in craticula assas et inferes.”
page 303 note d Lib. vii. c. 1. “Callum, lumbelli, codiculœ, ungellœ. Piper, liquamen, laser; apponis.”
page 303 note e Lib. vii. c. 2. “Sumen elixas, de cannis surclas, sale asperges et in furnum mittis vel in craticula subassas; teres piper, ligusticum; liquamen, merum et passum, amylo obligas et sumen perfundis.”
page 303 note f Lib. xiv. epig. 221.
page 304 note a Lib. vii. c. 4. “Ofellœ Apicianœ. Ofellas exossas, in rotundum complicas, surclas, ad furnum admoves, postea prseduras, levas ut humorem expuant; in craticula igni lento exiccabis ita ne urantur. Teres piper, ligusticum, cyperin, cuminum, liquamine et passo temperabis; cum hoc jure ofellas in cacabum mittis; cum coctæ fuerint, levas et siccas, sine jure, pipere asperso inferes.”
page 304 note b Lib. vii. c. 4. “Aliter ofellas in sartagine, abundanti œnogaro : piper asperges et inferes.”
page 304 note c Lib. viii. c. 4. “Ofellœ Ostienses. Designas ofellas in cute ita ut cutis sic remaneat; teres piper, ligusticum, anethum, cuminum, silphium, baccam lauri unam; suffundis liquamen; fricas; in angularem refundis simul cum ofellis; ubi requieverit in condimentis biduo vel triduo, ponis, surclas decussatim et in furnum mittis. Cum coxeris, ofellas quas designaveris, separabis et teres piper, ligusticum; suffundis liquarum, et passum modicum, ut dulce fiat. Cum ferbuerit jus, amylo obligas.”
page 304 note a Lib. vii. c. 9.
page 304 note e Ibid.
page 304 note f Lib. viii. c. 7. “Teres piper, rutam, satureiam, cepam, ovorum coctorum media: liquamen, vinum, oleum : bulliat conditura, porcellum in boletari perfundes et inferes.”
page 305 note a Lib. viii. c. 7. “Jus frigidum in porcellurn elixum ita fades: Teres piper, careum, anetnum, origanum modice, nucleos pineos ; suffundes acetum, liquamen, carœnum, mel, sinape factum ; superstillabis oleum, piper asperges et inferes.”
page 305 note b Ibid. “In porcellum hortulanum. Porcellus hortulanus exossatur per gulam in modum utris, mittitur in eo pulsus isiciatus, particulatim concisus, turdi, ficedulæ, isicia de pulpa sua, lucanicæ, dactyli exossati, fabriles bulbi, cochleæ exempæ, malvæ, betæ, porri, apium, coliculi elixi, coriandrum, piper integrum, nuclei; ova quindecim superinfunduntur; liquamen piperatum; ova mittuntur tria, et consuitur et præduratur; in furno assatur. Deinde à dorso scinditur, et jure hoc perfunditur: piper teritur, ruta; liquamen, passum, mel, oleum modicum; cum bullierit, amylum mittitur.”
page 305 note c Ibid. “Porcellus assus tractomellitus; porcellum curabis, à gutture exenteras, siccas. Teres piperis. unciam, mel, vinum: impones, ut ferveat, tractam siccatam confranges, et partibus cacabo permisces; agitabis surculo lauri viridis ; tandiu coques, donee lenis fiat et impinguet. Hac impensa porcellum imples, surclas, obturas charta, in furnum mittes, exornas et inferes.”
page 306 note a Lib. vi. c. 3.
page 306 note b Lib. vi. c. 7.
page 306 note c Ibid.
page 306 note d Ibid.
page 306 note e Lib. vi. c. 6.
page 306 note f Lib. vi. c. 2. “Gruem, vel Anatem ex rapis. Lavas, ornas, et in olla elixabis cum aqua, sale et anetho, dimidia coctura. Eapas quoque, ut exbromari [expromari, Lister; exbromari, Schuch: from the MSS. Bρόmu;ος, seu Bρῶmu;ος, virus; Bρομώδης, virosus, immundus.] possint, levabis de olla, et iterum lavabis, et in cacabum mittis anatem cum oleo et liquamine, et fasciculo porri et coriandri; rapam lotam et mhrutatim concisam desuper mittis, facies ut coquatur modica coctura, mittis defrutum ut coloret. Jus tale parabis: Piper, cuminum, coriandrum, laseris radicem; suffundis acetmn, et jus de suo sibi; reexinanies super anatem et ferveat; cum ferbuerit, amylo obligabis, et super rapas adjicies; piper asperges et appones “
page 306 note g Lib. vi. c. 5. “Piper, ligusticum, petroselinum, mentham siccam, anethi flores ; vinum suffundes; adjicies ponticam vel amygdala tosta, mel modicum; vino, aceto, et liquamine temperabis; oleum in pultarium super jus mittis, calefacies ; agitabis jus apio viridi et nepeta; avem incaraxas et perfundis.”
page 307 note a Lib. vi. c. 5. “Piper, careum, cuminum, apii semen, thymum, cepam, laseris radicem, nucleos tostos; mel, acetum, liquamen et oleum.”
page 307 note b Lib. vi. c. 2. “Piper, cepam siccam, ligusticum, cuminum, apii semen, pruna vel Damascena enucleata, mustum, acetum, liquamen, defrutum, oleum, et coques.”
page 307 note c Lib. vi. c. 3. “Piper, ligusticum, apii semen, mentham, myrtham et baccas, vel uvam passam; mel, vinum, acetum, liquamen et oleum; uteris frigido.”
page 307 note d Lib. vi. c. 4. “Piper, ligusticum, coriandrum, careum, cepam siccam, mentham, ovi vitellum, caryotam, mel, acetum, liquamen, oleum et vinum.”
page 307 note e Ibid. “Piper, ligusticum, petroselinum, apii semen, rutam, nucleos, caryotam; mel, acetum, liquamen, sinape, et oleum modice.”
page 307 note f Lib. vi. c. 9. “Pullus Numidicus. Pullum curas, elixas, lavas (potius levas), lasere et pipere aspersum assas; teres piper, cuminum, coriandri semen, laseris radicem, rutam, caryotam, nucleos; suffundis acetum, mel, liquamen; et oleo temperabis. Cum ferbuerit, amylo obligas, pullum perfundis, piper aspergis et inferes.”
page 307 note g Ibid. “In pullo elixo jus crudum. Adjicies in mortarium anethi semen, mentham siccam, laseris radicem, suffundis acetum ; adjicies caryotam; refundis liquamen; sinapis modicum et oleum ; defruto temperas, et sic mittis.”
page 307 note h Ibid. “Mellis modice, liquamine temperabis: lavas (lege levas) et sabano mundo siccas, charaxas, et jus scissuris infundis ut combibat; et cum combiberit, assabis et suo sibi jure pertangis, piper asperges et inferes,”
page 308 note a Lib. vi. c. 9. “Pullus paroptus. Laseris modicum, piperis scrupulos sex, olei acetabulum, liquaminis acetabulum, petroselini modicum.”
page 308 note b Ibid. “Pullus farsilis. Pullum sic ne aliquid in eo remaneat à cervice expedies; teres piper, ligustinam, zingiber, pulpam csesam, alicam elixam; teres cerebellum ex jure coctum; ova confringes et commisces ut unum corpus efficias; liquamine temperas, et oleum modice mittis, piper integrum, nucleos abundantes, fac impensam et imples pullum, ita ut laxamentum habeat.”
page 310 note c Lib. ii. c. 2. “Isicia de pavo primum locum habent…. Item secundum locum habent de phasianiis. Item tertium locum habent de cuniculis. Item quartum locum habent de pullis. Item quantum locum habent de porcello tenero.” For the pounding see lib. ii. c. 1 ; for the rest of the process see chap. ii. of the same book. “Teres piper, ligusticum, pyrethrum minimum ; suffundes liquamen, temperas aqua cisternina, dum inducet, exinanies in cacabo, turn isicia ad vaporem ignis pones, et caleat et sic sorbendum inferes.”
page 308 note d Lib. ii. c. 1. “Isicia omentata. Pulpam concisam teres cum medulla siliginis in vino infusæ; piper et liquamen si velis, et baccam myrtheam exenteratarn simul conteres. Pusilla isicia formabis ; intus nucleis et pipere positis; involuta omento subassabis cum caræno.”
page 308 note e Act iv. sc.fl, v. 46.
page 309 note a Lib. IT. c. 2. “Patina quotidiana. Cerebella elixata teres, turn piper, cuminum, laser cum liquamine, carænum cum lacte et ovis, ad ignem levem vel ad aquam calidam coques.”
page 309 note b Ibid. “Patina versatilis. Nucleos, nuces fractas, torres eas, et teres cum melle, pipere, liquamine, lacte et ovis; olei modicum.”
page 309 note c Ibid. Thyrsum lactucæ teres cum pipere, liquamine, caræno, aqua, oleo; coques; ovis obligabis, piper asperges et inferes.”
page 309 note d Ibid. “Accipies asparagos purgatos, in mortario fricabis; aquam suffundes, perfricabis; per colum colabis; et mittes ficedulas curatas; teres in mortario piperis scrupulos vi.; adjicies liquamen, fricabis, vini cyathum i., passi cyathum i., olei unc. iii., mittes in cacabum, illic ferveant; perunges patinam ; in câ ova vi. cum œnogaro misces ; cum succo asparagi impones cineri calido, misces impensam suprascriptam ; tune ficedulas compones; coques; piper asperges et inferes.”
page 309 note e Ibid. “Cucurbitas elixas et frictas in patina compones, cuminatum superfundes, modico oleo superadjecto; fervere facias, et inferes.”
page 310 note a Lib. iv. c. 3. “Minutal marinum. Pisces in cacabum mittes ; adjicies liquamen, oleum, vinum, cocturam; porros capitatos, coriandrum, minutatim concides ; isiciola de piscibus miirata fades; et pulpas piscis cocti concerpis (?) ; urticas marinas bene lotas mittes; hsec omnia cum cocta fuerint, teres piper, ligusticum, origanum, fricabis; suffundes liquamen, jus de suo sibi, exinanies in cacabum; cum ferbuerit, tractam confringes, obligas, agitas; piper asperges et inferes.”
page 310 note b Ibid. “Minutal Apicianum. Oleum, liquamen, vinum, porrum capitatum, mentham, pisciculos, isiciola minuta, testiculos1 caponum, glandulas porcellinas. Hæc omnia in se coquantur. Teres piper, ligusticum, coriandrum viridem vel semen; suffundis liquamen; adjicies mellis modicum et jus de suo sibi; vino et melle temperabis; facias ut ferveat. Cum ferbuerit, tractam confringes, obligas, coagitas ; piper asperges, et inferes.”
page 311 note a Lib. iv. c. 1. “Piper, mentham, petroselinum, apium, pulegium aridum, caseum, nucleos pineos; mel, acetum, liquamen, ovorum vitella, aquam recentem, conteres; panem ex posca maceratum exprimes; caseum bubulum, cucumeres in cacabulo compones, interpositis nucleis, mittes concisas cepas aridas minutim, jecuscula gallinarum; jus profundes, super frigidam collocabis et sic appones.”
page 311 note b Ibid. “Salacacabia Apiciana. Adjicies in mortario apii semen, pulegium aridum, mentham aridam, zingiber, coriandrum viridem. uvam passam enucleatam; mel, acetum, oleum et vinum; conteres. Adjicies in cacabulo panis Picentini tria frusta; interpones pulpas pulli, glandulas hsedinas, caseum Vestinum, nucleos pineos, cucumeres, cepas aridas minute concisas ; jus superfundes : Insuper nivem sub ora asperges et inferes.”
page 311 note c Lib. vii. c. 9. “Pernam: ubi earn, cum caricis plurimis elixaveris, et tribus lauri foliis, detracta cute tessellatim incides et melle complebis; deinde farinam oleo subactam conteges et ei corium reddas, et cum farina cocta fuerit, eximas furno et inferes.”
page 311 note d Lib. vi. c. 6. “Avem sapidiorem et altiorem facies et ei pinguedinem servabis, si earn farina oleo subacta contectam in furnum miseris.”
page 311 note e Suet. c. 42.
page 312 note a Lib. iii. c. 13. “Rapas sive napos, elixatos exprimes; deinde teres cuminum plurimum, rutam minus, laser Parthicum, mel, acetum, liquamen, defrutum, et oleum modice ; fervere fades et inferes.”
page 312 note b Ibid. “Rapas sive napos, elixas, inferes; oleum superstillabis ; si voles, acetum addes.”
page 312 note c Lib. iii. c. 15. “Olus molle ex foliis lactucarum cum cepis, coques ex aqua nitrata, expressum concides minutatim. In mortario teres piper, ligusticum, apii semen, mentham siccam, cepam; liquamen, oleum, vinum.”
page 312 note d Lib. iii. c. 16. “Herbœ rusticœ. Liquamine, oleo, aceto à, manu.”
page 312 note e Lib. iii. c. 18. “Intuba ac lactucœ. Intuba ex liquamine et oleo modico; modice cepa concisa pro lactucis vere.”
page 312 note f Lib. iii. c. 19. “Carduos liquamine, oleo et ovis concisis. Ibid. Aliter carduos elixos. Piper, cuminum, liquamen, et oleum.”
page 312 note g Lib. vii. c. 14. “Tubera radis, elixas, sale aspergis, et surculo infiges, subassas, et mittes in cacabum oleum, liquamen, carænum, vinum, piper, et mel; cum ferbuerit amylo obligas, tubera exornas et inferes.”
page 312 note h Lib. vii. c. 12. “Bulbos elixos, in pultarium pressos, mittis thymum, origanum, caryotum, mel, acetum, defrutum, liquamen, oleum modice; piper aspergis et inferes.”
page 313 note a Lib. vii. c. 12. “In legitimis nuptiis in cœna ponuntur, sed et cum nucleis pineis aut cum erucæ succo et pipere.”
page 313 note b Lib. iii. c. 20. “Spongioli elixi, ex sale, oleo, mero, coriandro viridi conciso, et pipere integro.
page 313 note c Lib. vii. c. 13. Boletos, fungos. “Caræno, fasciculo coriandri viridis; ubi ferbuerint, exempto fasciculo inferes.”
page 313 note d Lib. iii. c. 21. “Carotæ seu pastinacæ frictæ cenogaro inferuntur.”
page 313 note e Ibid. “Carotas elixatas concisas in cuminato, oleo modico coques.”
page 313 note f Lib. v. c. 3. “Pisum coques, cum despumaverit, porrum, coriandrum et cuminum supramittis. Teres piper, ligusticum, careum, anetbum, ocymum viridem, suffundis liquamen; vino et liquamine temperabis, facias ut ferveat; cum ferbuerit, agitabis; si quid defuerit, mittis et inferes.”
page 313 note g Lib. v. c. 8. “Simpliciter ut solet.”
page 313 note h Ibid. “Elixati sumpto semine, cum lobis in patella fæniculo viridi pipere, et liquamine, et caræno modico.”
page 313 note i Lib. iii. c. 6. “Cucumeres; rasos sive ex liquamine sive ex ænogaro sine ructu ac gravitudine teneriores senties.”
page 313 note k Ibid. “Cucumeres; rasos apii semine, liquamine et oleo elixabis, obligabis, piper asperges et inferes.”
page 313 note l Ibid. c. 7. “Pepones et melones. Piper, pulegium, mel vel passum, liquamen, acetum. Interdum et silphium accedit.”
page 314 note a Lib. iii. c. 9. “Cimas; cuminum, salem, vinum vetus, oleum ; si voles addes piper et ligusticum—”
page 314 note b Lib. iii. c. 10. “Porros maturos fieri; pugnum salis, aquam, et oleum mixtum facies; et ibi coques et eximinies; cum oleo, liquamine, et mero inferes.”
page 314 note c This was a dish upon which country servants were fed. Paulus (Dig. xxxiii. tit. 7, c. 18, æ 3) says: “Item, cacabos et patinas in instrumento fundi esse dicimus quia sine his pulmentarium coqui non potest.” Ulpian (ibid. c. 12, æ 5) says: “Quæ pulmentaria rusticis coquant.”
page 314 note d Lib. iii. c. 2. Pulmentarium ad ventrem. “Betas minutas et porros requietos elixabis, in patina compones. Teres piper, cuminum ; suffundes liquamen, passum, ut quædam dulcedo sit; facias ut ferveat, cum ferbuerit inferes.”
page 314 note e Ibid. “Betacios Varrones. Varro. ‘betacios sed nigros quorum detersas radices et mulso decoctas cum sale modico et oleo (vel sale, aqua et oleo) in se coques, jusculum facies et potabis;’ melius erit si in eo pullus sit decoctus.”
page 314 note f Lib. vii. c. 11. “Dulcia domestica. Palmulas vel dactylos, excepto semine, nuce vel nucleis, vel pipere trito infarcies, sale foris contingis, frigis in melle cocto et inferes.”
page 314 note g Ibid. “Aliter dulcia. Siligineos rasos frangis, et buccellas majores facias, in lacte infundis, frigis in oleo, et mel superfundis et inferes.”
page 315 note a Dulcia piperata. Accipies similam, coques in aqua calida, ita ut durissimam pultem facias; deinde in patellam expandis; cum refrixerit concidis quasi dulcia et frigis in oleo optimo, levas, perfundis mel, piper aspergis et inferes. Melius feceris si lac pro aqua miseris.”
page 315 note b Ibid. “Tyropatina. [Schuch reads tripatinam, and refers to Pliny, xxxv. 162.] Accipies lac, adversus quod patinam æstimabis; temperabis lac cum melle quasi ad lactantia ; ova quinque ad sextarium mittis (sed ad heminam ova trias, in lacte dissolvis ita ut unum corpus facias; in cumana colas et igni lento coques, cum duxerit ad se, piper aspergis et inferes.”
page 315 note c Ibid. “Ova spongia ex lacta. Ova quatuor, lactis heminam, olei unciam, in se dissolvis, ita ut unum corpus facias, in patellam subtilem adjicies olei modicum, facies ut bulliat, et adjicies impensam quam parasti. Una parte cum fuerit coctum in disco vertes, melle perfundis, piper aspergis et inferes.”
page 315 note d Lib. iv. c. 2 “Pyra elixa et purgata è medio, teres cum pipere, cumino, melle, passo, liquamine, oleo modico; ovis mixtis patinam facies, piper super asperges et inferes.”
page 315 note e Lib. iv. c. 2. “Mala Cydonia cum porris, melle, liquamine, oleo defricato, coques et inferes. Vel elixata ex melle.”
page 315 note f Lib. ii. c. 3. “Botellum sic facies. Ex ovi vitellis coctis, nucleis pineis concisis, cepam addes, porrum concisum, jus crudum misces, piper minutum, et sic intestinum farcies, adjicies liquamen et vinum et sic coques.”
page 316 note a Lib. ii. c. 4. “Lucanicarum confectio. Teritur piper, cuminum, satureia, ruta, petroselinum, condimentum, baccæ lauri liquamen, et admiscetur pulpa bene tunsa, ita ut denuo bene cum ipso subtrito fricetur, cum liquamine admixto, pipeve integro et abundante pinguedine, et nucleis. Farcies intestinum perquam tenuiatim productum et sic ad fumum suspenditur.”
page 316 note b Lib. ii. c. 5. “Ova et cerebella teres, nucleos pineos, piper, liquamen, laser modicum ; et his intestinum implebis, elixas, postea assas, et inferes.”
page 316 note c Ibid. “Aliter, coctam alicam et tritam cum pulpa concisa et trita una cum pipere et liquamine, et nucleis; farcies intestinum et elixabis ; deinde cum sale assabis et cum sinape inferes.”
page 316 note d Lib. vii, c. 16.
page 316 note e Lib. vii. c. 17.
page 316 note f Lib. v. e. l.
page 316 note g Ibid.
page 316 note h Lib. v. c. 5.
page 316 note i Ibid.
page 317 note a “Des incongruityès de bonne chère,” to use the words of Dorante, in the Bourgeois Gentilhomme, 4e Acte, Sc. 1. Ovid, with questionable taste, introduces Tisiphone making a patina of moral ingredients, after the approved fashion of the Roman cook. Metam. lib. iv. v. 500 et seqq.
“Attulerat secum liquidi quoque monstra veneni
Oris cerberei spumas et virus echidnaæ,
Erroresque vagos coecæque oblivia mentis,
Et scelus et lacrimas rabiemque et cædis amorem,
Omniâ trita simul, quæ sanguine mixta recenti,
Coxerat aere cavo, viridi versata cicuta.”
page 317 note b In the Patina Apiciana, lib. iv. c. 2.
page 317 note c Epist. xcv. “Expecto jam ut manducata ponantur. Quantulo autem hoc minus est, testas excerpere atque ossa, et dentium operâ coqunm fungi ?”
page 318 note a “Fu quindi in Italia ove diedesi principio alla buona cucina; ma avendola trasmessa ai Francesi, costoro superarono ben presto i loro maestri, perchè venne tale arte coltivato in Francia, mentre decaddero in Italia le scuole della buona gastronomia; quantunque i Francesi non abbiano ancor superato la magnificenza dei banchetti Italiani ch' ebbero luogo sul finir del secolo xv.” Cucina Borghese. Torino, G. Favale e Cla. Editori.
page 318 note b Lib. vii. c. 1. “Laser Cyrenaicum vel Parthicum aceto et liquamine temperatum.”
page 319 note a See ante.
page 319 note b Lib. vii. c. 14. “Salem vel liquamen;” et alibi.
page 319 note c Lib. iii. c. 20. “Aliter spongiolos,” &c.
page 319 note d Lib. i. c. 7. “De liquamine emendando …. Si salsum fuerit, mellis sextarium mittis et move spica et emendasti.”
page 319 note e Lib. ix. c. 8. “Liquamen optimum admisces et quasi recentes apparebunt ita ut à, balneo sumi possint.”
page 320 note a Lib. iv. c. 2.
page 320 note b H. N. lib. xii. c. 14.
page 321 note a Dioscorides, lib. ii. c. 189, quoted by Dr. Lister.
page 321 note b See ante.
page 321 note c See ante.,
page 321 note d Lib. iv. c. 2.
page 321 note e See Apicius passim; at lib. viii. c. iv. for a sauce; “in venationibus omnibus elixis et assis.”
page 322 note a Leechdoms, Wortcunning, and Starcraft of Early England. Rev. T. O. Cockayne, M.A. London. Longmans. 1864–6.
page 322 note b “Ælfrici Colloquium,” Thorpe's Analecta, p. 29.
page 323 note a Upon this the learned Dr. Pegge has observed (Preface to the work mentioned above, p. 21):—
“It may be said, What becomes of the Old English Hospitality, in this case, the roast beef of Old England, so much talked of? I answer, these bulky and magnificent dishes must have been the product of later reigns, perhaps of Queen Elizabeth's time, since it is plain that in the days of Eichard II. Our ancestors lived much after the Trench fashion.”
page 323 note b Lib. ii. c 9.
page 323 note c Lib. i. epist. 15. (See ante, p. 4, foot note c.)
page 232 note d The Greek poet Matron called them by a freer name. See the inimitable description of an Attic dinner preserved by Athenæusa, lib. iv. c. 13 :—
“Π όρναι δ᾽ εἰσῆλον, κοῦραι δύο θανμτοποιοί.”
page 324 note a Boissier, Ciceron. p. 175.
page 324 note b Lib. ii. c. 10.
page 324 note c Prefatio ad Rutilium.
page 324 note d Pompèii et les Pompèiens, c. 6. See Athenseus, lib. iii. c. 100.
page 324 note e The term “sorbitio” applied to isicia, and the expression “et sic sorbendum inferes,” prove this ; and, àpropos of the Middle Ages,, Dr. Pegge, in the “Preface to the Curious Antiquarian Reader,” prefixed to the Forme of Cury, says, “My next observation is, that the messes both in the Roll and the Editor's MS. are chiefly soups, potages, ragouts, hashes, and the like hotchepoches; entire joints of meat being never served, and animals, whether fish or fowl, seldom brought to table whole, but hacked, and hewed, and cut in pieces or gobbets. The mortar also was in great request …. Now in this state of things the general mode of eating must either have been with the spoon or the fingers.”