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Private Journal of a Voyage from Smyrna to Venice, by J.O. Hanson

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  27 September 2013

Alkis Anghelou
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Extract

I published three years ago in a Greek periodical a hitherto unpublished journal of the year 1813, from a manuscript of the British Museum, entitled Recollections of Smyrna. It was written by an Englishman, John Oliver Hanson. I found no trace of him in the bibliographies of travellers; and indeed, all my attempts to collect information about him led nowhere. I therefore expressed the hope that its publication might perhaps result in the discovery of information concerning his life and person. Up to the moment of writing, however, I have been no more fortunate in my researches than I was previously.

In the prologue of my publication I pointed out with pleasure that Hanson's manuscript contained the texts of two other journeys made by him, and that we thus had a more complete picture of the travel records of a hitherto unknown traveller from the West in the Greek East.

Type
Research Article
Information
Annual of the British School at Athens , Volume 66 , November 1971 , pp. 13 - 48
Copyright
Copyright © The Council, British School at Athens 1971

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References

page 13 note 1 (1967) 435–520.

page 13 note 2 I thus give the reader a general idea of the contents of my commentary to the first text, and avoid here unnecessary repetitions.

page 14 note 3 Op. cit., p. 486.

page 15 note 1 The Archipelago, more than any other sea perhaps, is subject to variable and uncertain weather. Gusts of wind, violent hurricanes, and gentle calms succeed each other—in the autumnal months more especially—with uncommon rapidity, and render the navigation not only dangerous but tedious. Throughout the whole extent of the Mediterranean there is scarcely any visible tide. The water is most beautifully clear and nothing can be more delightful than a sail on it by night, when from the friction of the ship the sea all around it appears but as one sparkling sheet of fire. This appearance of the sea is very common in warm climates. It is thus described by Mr. Adamson in his voyage to Senegal. ‘As soon’ says he ‘as the sun dipped beneath the horizon and night overspread the earth with darkness, the sea lent us its friendly light. While the prow of our vessel ploughed the foaming surges it seemed to set them all in fire. Thus we sailed in a luminous inclosure which surrounded us like a large circle of rays, from which darted in the wake of our ship a long stream of light.’

page 15 note 2 The promontory of Sunium is steep, abrupt and rocky. The temple of white marble of Pentelicus probably erected in the same happy period with the temple of Minerva at Athens, it having like proportions though far inferior in magnitude.

page 16 note 3 Pratique is the term used throughout the Levant to denote the permission of the local authorities to land from on-board vessels coming from places subject to the plague.

page 16 note 4 Some idea may be formed of the gigantic piles raised by the Athenians, when it is known that the walls of Athens, including those of the three harbours, extended over a space of 9 leagues or about 25 miles English; that the walls which connected the city with the Piraeus were so broad that two chariots might run abreast upon them, and were flanked with square towers at intervals of 50 paces. The height of the columns of the temple of Jupiter Olympius was 58 feet and the whole temple mile in circumference.

page 17 note 5 The sculptures still extant about this temple, though much impaired, witness the hand of a master and furnish abundant proof that Theseus was the owner. The exploits of this hero were carved on the metopes in alto relievo, and even still many of them are perfectly intelligible.

page 18 note 6 At Athens Turkish money is, of course, in more general circulation than any other; from its intercourse, however, with strangers Spanish money is not uncommon.

page 19 note 7 1818 Sept. The Athenian Society like many other infant institutions has raised itself into notice solely on the footing of its own merits and the numerous and important advantages it holds out to travellers and antiquarians visiting Greece. Princes and Emperors have already become its patrons and benefactors; and many of the most illustrious names in Europe now publickly appear in the list of its supporters. On his arrival at Athens every member of the society has a right to demand the friendship and protection of the Institution, every object of interest is shewn to him free of expense, and every inducement held out to him in order to make his stay no less agreeable than instructive. Each member pays towards its support three Spanish dollars per Annum. The president of the Society is the Hon. Mr. North, now Lord Guildford.

page 19 note 8 The olive groves are now, as anciently, a principal source of the riches of Athens. The mills for pressing and grinding the olives are in the town. The oil is deposited in large earthen jars sunk in the ground in the areas before the houses.

page 20 note 9 I had almost forgotten to notice an ancient structure called the Tower of the Winds or of Andronicus Cyrrhestes. It is a small edifice of marble, an octagon decorated with sculpture representing the winds—eight in number—and has supported a Triton which turned as a weather-cock and pointed with a wand to the wind then blowing. On the sides were sundials to shew the hour of the day. This edifice is now a Jeckeh or place of worship belonging to a college of Dervishes.

page 20 note 10 [Plan of the sepulchre of Euripides].

page 21 note 11 This process is general throughout the East. It is noticed by almost every oriental traveller under the term ‘champooing’.

page 21 note 12 The positions of the Greek temples were invariably the same: East and West. The Greeks were moreover particularly attentive to the arrangement of the steps leading to them, preferring always an uneven number and taking care to enter the building with the right foot, thinking thereby to approach the deity with greater respect.

page 22 note 13 (See Plate 3.) Since the arrival of the Elgin Marbles in this country much discussion has taken place touching the sculptures of the Parthenon. From what has been said on the subject, it would appear that there is no reason to doubt that the sculptures on the pediments of the temple are as much the works of Phidias as any great mass of sculptures are, or can be the work of an individual and that they are at least to be looked upon as the production of his school. The eastern pediment represented the Birth of Minerva, the western pediment represented the contest for Attica. The frieze of the cella represented in very low relief the Panathenaic Procession, the highest festival of the Athenians. The frieze of the entablature, which surmounted the entire colonnade of the building, was composed of Doric architectural ornaments. The metopes were in high relief. There were originally 92 in number, that is 2 in each intercolumniation.

page 23 note 14 The influence of religion was strongly marked in the characters and opinions of the earlier Greeks. The Athenians indeed were no less remarkable for the number of their gods than for the superstitious reverence with which they worshipped them; and for this simple reason, that as they were composed of tribes and colonies from various parts, each had their favourite and presiding deities. In Homer's time we read that the gods worshipped by the Athenians amounted to 30,000 in number and that the feast of all the gods was annually celebrated by them with peculiar reverence. We even find that the Athenians carried their superstition and idolatry beyond this point, for St. Paul tells us that at Athens he saw a temple dedicated to the Unknown God.

page 23 note 15 ‘Bravest of the Greeks’ is a term used in more than one historical writer to express the distinguished bravery of Themistocles. Many of the leading Greeks of antiquity obtained by their virtues, wisdom or learning some appropriate designation. Thus we hear of Xenophon the Athenian Muse, Socrates the Wisest of Mankind, Aristides the Just.

page 25 note 16 By the Greeks this place is called Epactos as anciently Naupactos.

page 26 note 17 Patras is not less celebrated in another point of view. It was here that the Apostle St. Andrew was crucified.

page 27 note 18 The following was the price of provisions at Patras

page 28 note 19 Our lodgings here cost us but about the value of 1/6 the day between both of us. Our provisions 5/6. In changing all money here some trifling loss may be expected, if the money changed is not passed in currency.

page 28 note 20 The Zante currant or the Corinth grape was the pro duce of the country near the Isthmus of Corinth, when it began to be particularly esteemed. It is a small species, the clusters large, the colour black or a deep purple. The stocks are planted in rows and the leaf is bigger than on the common vine. The grapes intended to be preserved as currants are spread when gathered in beds on the ground. When dried by the sun and air they are transported to the city on horses and mules and poured down a hole into magazines in which they cake together. When the price is fixed and the duties are paid the fruit is dug out with iron crows and stamped into casks by men with their legs and feet bare. In the ship the fruit ferments and creates a very unpleasant smell.

page 29 note 21 The harbour forms a semicircle and is generally crowded with shipping of different sorts.

page 32 note 22 These friezes are now safely deposited at the British Museum and are known by the name of the Phigalea Marbles.

page 32 note 23 1818 August 31. Four years have scarcely elapsed, and many whose names often appear in the annexed journal have already paid the great debt of nature. Strani, Haller, Maltass, etc.

page 33 note 24 The Greek sailors are accounted quick, active and hardy. They are, however, under little subordination and exceedingly clamorous and noisy, if anything goes wrong on board, all giving freely their opinion as to which is best to be done. They receive no regular pay, but divide at the end of the voyage the profits of whatever freight the ship has made (after deducting the ship's expenses) in regulated proportions amongst them.

page 34 note 25 Spanish money passes more currently at Lissa. It is of incidental value and intrinsically is worth little, the same size piece of metal being stamped and issued at different values of course nominal.

A Tallarie passes for 12 liras.

1 Lira makes 20 gadzette or 2 Moneta.

page 35 note 26 Every Englishman abroad is called Milord Anglais and supposed to be a Nobleman, rich as Croesus, and liberal to excess; as such he is treated and imposed on wherever he goes; and so prevalent is this idea, that he not unfrequently is introduced into society, even by letters of introduction from one friend to another, in this character.

A question of a man in rather an inferior situation in life at Spalatro struck me very forcibly, and gave me no mean opinion of his taste for study, considering the quarter from whence it came, and the country I was then in; hearing my name mentioned he observed: ‘Celui-là c'est un grand homme, il doit être de la famille du célèbre Anson’.

page 36 note 27 At the convent of San Stephano, now in ruins, are 4 most beautifully proportioned Egyptian granite columns of the Corinthian order prostrate on the ground, about 20 inches in diameter. They are well worth a walk.

The length of the less mutilated Sphinx is 8 feet. The dimensions of the Sarcophagus representing the hunt of the Calydonian Boar is as follows:

length (utmost extent) 6 ft. in.

breadth (ditto) 2 ft. in.

height 4 ft. and with the stones that cover it 4 ft. in.

page 37 note 28 A Turk cannot for a moment conceive the motive that can induce a traveller to quit the comforts of his home, to seek after the remains of mutilated statues, broken friezes and rusty medals. To him it becomes a perfect mystery; the only idea he entertains on the subject is that it is in search of hidden treasure contained in the statues. If a statue is found (presuming upon this) you must needs pay a most extravagant sum for the permission of carrying it away; if you are not willing to comply with his terms, he takes possession of it and breaks it into pieces to see what it contains. Such is the fate of many a fine statue.

page 38 note 29 The race of men at Spalatro struck me as being somewhat peculiar; they appeared to be so particularly tall and thin.

page 39 note 30 Travellers going to Zara not unfrequently go thither it is formed by the by land. The following would be the route:

page 40 note 31 It was about this time that the Allied Sovereigns met at Vienna and the Plenipotentiaries from the different courts of Europe began to meet in Congress.

page 40 note 32 [Inscription on a fountain in the neighbourhood of Zara.

Inscription over an old gateway at Zara.

Inscription upon a Sarcophagus in the neighbourhood of Zara.]

page 41 note 33 Pirates not unfrequently make their appearance in the Adriatic, as well as in various parts of the Archipelago; the numerous creeks and bays which everywhere line the coasts and islands of these seas are so well known to them and are so very secure that, when pursued, they skulk to them with almost always a sure prospect of escape. Among them lately were several desperadoes under French protection; it was my fortune once to make a short voyage with a captain of a vessel, who had not long before been very actively engaged against the English. As he had, when I saw him, no command, he conducted himself well. My servant, I observed, was particularly attentive to him and furnished him very liberally from my small stock of provisions. Upon noticing it to him, he winked at me and gave me to understand that it was politic to do so, for he was the celebrated and notorious captain Dabovitch. I thanked my stars he was but a passenger as myself, and observed him closely.

page 43 note 34 The celebrated chapel of our Lady of Loretto is extremely old and surrounded with a marble wall. Within is a church built of freestone. The famous figure of the Virgin Mary who holds the infant Jesus in her arms stands upon the principal altar. This statue is of cedar wood three feet high, but her face can hardly be seen, on account of the numerous lamps around her. She is dressed with cloth of gold set off with jewels, and the little Jesus is covered with a shirt.

page 44 note 35 Correctly speaking the Amphitheatre at Pola forms an ellipsis; its greatest diameter being 436 feet, 6 inches and its smallest 346 feet, 9 inches. Its present height, where it is most perfect, is 97 feet.

[Inscription found at Pola in Istria. Monumental inscription found at Pola. inscription on the triumphal arch at Pola.]

page 45 note 36 Accounts are kept here in Kreutzers and Florins. 60 of the former make 1 of the latter

An Imperial German Tallarie passes for 2 Florins 16 Kreutzers

A Tallarie of Leopold struck by Pisis for Florins 2.10

I Lira makes 10 Kreutzers

ditto makes 5 ditto.

page 46 note 37 Of the numerous different orders among Roman Catholics the following are the most conspicuous.

Benedictine monks, who admit none into their order, but the rich, noble, or men of talent.

Carmelites, who eat no flesh, cannot go out alone or drive from home except in company of a brother Carmelite.

Franciscans, who are beggars and give away every thing they possess in charity.

Capuchins, who have the care of the dead.

Jesuits.