Hostname: page-component-cd9895bd7-dzt6s Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-12-28T02:55:27.916Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

‘So long as there's hair there still’: displaying lack of interest as a practice for negotiating social norms of appearance for older women

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  31 January 2018

RACHEL HEINRICHSMEIER*
Affiliation:
School of Education, Communication and Society, King's College London, UK.
*
Address for correspondence: Rachel Heinrichsmeier, School of Education, Communication and Society, King's College London, Room 1/23, ECS FWB-WBW, Waterloo Road, London SE1 9NH, UK E-mail: [email protected]

Abstract

Although women's appearance is theorised as being central to their identity and social currency, much prior research has argued that as women age, other aspects of their lives assume a higher priority than their appearance. Nevertheless, they continue to invest time in appearance practices. In undertaking these various appearance practices, older women have to negotiate a range of conflicting social norms of age-appropriate appearance, such as managing the balancing act between ‘letting themselves go’, on the one hand, and looking like ‘mutton dressed as lamb’, on the other. This paper contributes to the growing literature on older women's attitudes to their appearance and related practices. Drawing on data from a two-year research project in a hair-salon catering primarily for older clients, I examine the question of the importance to women of their appearance through the lens of their hair-care practices. Focusing on a group of nine female clients aged 55–90 in a small hair-salon in southern England, I show how participants in their talk and embodied presentation display shifting orientations of investment/interest (or lack of interest) in their appearance. Comparing participants’ appearance practices, with their talk in two sequential environments in which a possible interest in appearance is made particularly salient, I argue that these shifting orientations reveal participants’ subtle negotiation of competing social norms of appearance for older women.

Type
Article
Copyright
Copyright © Cambridge University Press 2018 

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Baker, L. and Gringart, E. 2009. Body image and self-esteem in older adulthood. Ageing & Society, 29, 6, 977–95.Google Scholar
Barber, K. 2008. The well-coiffed man: class, race, and heterosexual masculinity in the hair salon. Gender & Society, 22, 4, 455–76.Google Scholar
Biggs, S. 1999. The ‘blurring’ of the lifecourse: narrative, memory and the question of authenticity. Journal of Aging and Identity, 4, 4, 209–21.Google Scholar
Brooks, A. T. 2010. Aesthetic anti-ageing surgery and technology: women's friend or foe? Sociology of Health & Illness, 32, 2, 238–57.Google Scholar
Bucholtz, M. 1999. ‘Why be normal?’ Language and identity practices in a community of nerd girls. Language in Society, 28, 2, 203–23.Google Scholar
Bytheway, B., Ward, R., Holland, C. and Peace, S. 2007. Too Old. Older People's Accounts of Discrimination, Exclusion and Rejection. A Report from the Research on Age Discrimination Project (RoAD) to Help the Aged. Open University and Help the Aged, London.Google Scholar
Calasanti, T. 2007. Bodacious berry, potency wood and the aging monster: gender and age relations in anti-aging ads. Social Forces, 86, 1, 335–55.Google Scholar
Coupland, J. 2003. Ageist ideology and discourses of control in skincare product marketing. In Coupland, J. and Gwyn, R. (eds), Discourse, the Body, and Identity. Palgrave Macmillan, Basingstoke, UK, 127–50.Google Scholar
Coupland, J. 2009. Time, the body and the reversibility of ageing: commodifying the decade. Ageing & Society, 29, 6, 953–76.Google Scholar
De Fina, A. 2011. Researcher and informant roles in narrative interactions: constructions of belonging and foreign-ness. Language in Society, 40, special issue 1, 2738.Google Scholar
De Fina, A. and Perrino, S. 2011. Introduction: Interviews vs. ‘natural’ contexts: a false dilemma. Language in Society, 40, 1, 111.Google Scholar
Dumas, A., Laberge, S. and Straka, S. M. 2005. Older women's relations to bodily appearance: the embodiment of social and biological conditions of existence. Ageing & Society, 25, 6, 883902.Google Scholar
Erickson, F. [2001] 2014. Co-membership and wiggle room: some implications of the study of talk for the development of social theory. In Coupland, N., Sarangi, S. and Candlin, C. (eds), Sociolinguistics and Social Theory (Language in Social Life). Taylor & Francis, London, 152–82.Google Scholar
Furman, F. K. 1997. Facing the Mirror: Older Women and Beauty Shop Culture. Routledge, New York.Google Scholar
Gimlin, D. 1996. Pamela's Place: power and negotiation in the hair salon. Gender and Society, 10, 5, 505–26.Google Scholar
Goffman, E. 1981. Footing. In Goffman, E. (ed.), Forms of Talk. University of Pennsylvannia Press, Philadelphia, 124–59.Google Scholar
Hurd Clarke, L. 2002. Older women's perceptions of ideal body weights: the tensions between health and appearance motivations for weight loss. Ageing & Society, 22, 6, 751–73.Google Scholar
Hurd Clarke, L. 2011. Facing Age. Women Growing Older in Anti-aging Culture. Rowman & Littlefield, Lanham, Maryland.Google Scholar
Hurd Clarke, L. and Griffin, M. 2008. Visible and invisible ageing: beauty work as a response to ageism. Ageing & Society, 28, 5, 653–74.Google Scholar
Hurd Clarke, L., Griffin, M. and Maliha, K. 2009. Bat wings, bunions, and turkey wattles: body transgressions and older women's strategic clothing choices. Ageing & Society, 29, 5, 709–26.Google Scholar
Hurd Clarke, L., Griffin, M. and Pacc Res Team. 2008. Failing bodies: body image and multiple chronic conditions in later life. Qualitative Health Research, 18, 8, 1084–95.Google Scholar
Hurd Clarke, L. and Korotchenko, A. 2011. Aging and the body: a review. Canadian Journal on Aging/Revue canadienne du vieillissement, 30, 3, 495510.Google Scholar
Hurd, L. 2000. Older women's body image and embodied experience: an exploration. Journal of Women & Aging, 12, 3/4, 7797.Google Scholar
Jacobs-Huey, L. 2006. From the Kitchen to the Parlour. Language and Becoming in African American Women's Hair Care. Oxford University Press, Oxford.Google Scholar
Jankowski, G. S., Diedrichs, P. C., Williamson, H., Christopher, G. and Harcourt, D. 2016. Looking age-appropriate while growing old gracefully: a qualitative study of ageing and body image among older adults. Journal of Health Psychology, 21, 4, 550–61.Google Scholar
Jefferson, G. 2004. Glossary of transcript symbols with an introduction. In Lerner, G. H. (ed.), Conversation Analysis: Studies from the First Generation. John Benjamins Publishing, Amsterdam.Google Scholar
Kinnunen, T. 2010. ‘A second youth’: pursuing happiness and respectability through cosmetic surgery in Finland. Sociology of Health & Illness, 32, 2, 258–71.Google Scholar
Krekula, C. 2007. The intersection of age and gender: reworking gender theory and social gerontology. Current Sociology, 55, 2, 155–71.Google Scholar
Liechty, T. 2012. ‘Yes, I worry about my weight … but for the most part I'm content with my body’: older women's body dissatisfaction alongside contentment. Journal of Women & Aging, 24, 1, 7088.Google Scholar
Montemurro, B. and Gillen, M. M. 2012. Wrinkles and sagging flesh: exploring transformations in women's sexual body image. Journal of Women & Aging, 25, 1, 323.Google Scholar
O'Connor, P. E. 2000. Speaking of Crime. Narratives of Prisoners. University of Nebraska Press, Lincoln, Nebraska.Google Scholar
Paoletti, I. 1998. Handling ‘incoherence’ according to the speaker's on-sight categorization. In Antaki, C. and Widdicombe, S. (eds), Identities in Talk. Sage, London, 171–90.Google Scholar
Paulson, S. and Willig, C. 2008. Older women and everyday talk about the ageing body. Journal of Health Psychology, 13, 1, 106–20.Google Scholar
Pomerantz, A. 1984. Agreeing and disagreeing with assessments: some features of preferred/dispreferred turn shapes. In Atkinson, J. M. and Heritage, J. (eds), Structures of Social Action: Studies in Conversation Analysis. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 57101.Google Scholar
Rampton, B. 2006. Language in Late Modernity. Interaction in an Urban School. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge.Google Scholar
Rampton, B., Maybin, J. and Roberts, C. 2014. Methodological foundations in linguistic ethnography. Working Papers in Urban Language & Literacies, King's College London, London.Google Scholar
Raymond, G. 2004. Prompting action: the stand-alone ‘So’ in ordinary conversation. Research on Language and Social Interaction, 37, 2, 185218.Google Scholar
Reboussin, B. A., Rejeski, W. J., Martin, K. A., Callahan, K., Dunn, A. L., King, A. C. and Sallis, J. F. 2000. Correlates of satisfaction with body function and body appearance in middle- and older aged adults: the activity counselling trial. Psychology & Health, 15, 2, 239–54.Google Scholar
Robinson, V., Hall, A. and Hockey, J. 2011. Masculinities, sexualities, and the limits of subversion: being a man in hairdressing. Men and Masculinities, 14, 1, 3150.Google Scholar
Roulston, K. 2014. Interactional problems in research interviews. Qualitative Research, 14, 3, 277–93.Google Scholar
Sacks, H. 1995. Lectures on Conversation. Blackwell Publishing, Oxford.Google Scholar
Schegloff, E. A. 2007. Sequence Organisation in Interaction: A Primer in Conversation Analysis. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge.Google Scholar
Sidnell, J. and Stivers, T. (eds) 2013. The Handbook of Conversation Analysis. Wiley Blackwell Publishing, Chichester, UK.Google Scholar
Sontag, S. [1972] 1983. The double standard of aging. In Rainbolt, M. and Fleetwood, J. (eds), On the Contrary: Essays by Men and Women. State University of New York Press, Albany, New York, 99112.Google Scholar
Stivers, T. and Sidnell, J. 2013. Introduction. In Sidnell, J. and Stivers, T. (eds), The Handbook of Conversation Analysis. Wiley Blackwell Publishing, Chichester, UK, 18.Google Scholar
Symonds, A. and Holland, C. 2008. The same hairdo: the production of the stereotyped image of the older woman. In Ward, R. and Bytheway, B. (eds), Researching Age and Multiple Discrimination. Centre for Policy on Ageing, London, 2644.Google Scholar
Synnott, A. 1987. Shame and glory: a sociology of hair. British Journal of Sociology, 38, 3, 381483.Google Scholar
Tiggemann, M. 2004. Body image across the adult life span: stability and change. Body Image, 1, 1, 2941.Google Scholar
Tunaley, J. R., Walsh, S. and Nicolson, P. 1999. ‘I'm not bad for my age’: the meaning of body size and eating in the lives of older women. Ageing & Society, 19, 6, 741–59.Google Scholar
Twigg, J. 2007. Clothing, age and the body: a critical review. Ageing & Society, 27, 2, 285305.Google Scholar
Ward, R. and Campbell, S. 2013. Mixing methods to explore appearance in dementia care. Dementia, 12, 3, 337–47.Google Scholar
Ward, R., Campbell, S. and Keady, J. 2014. ‘Once I had money in my pocket, I was every colour under the sun’: using ‘appearance biographies’ to explore the meanings of appearance for people with dementia. Journal of Aging Studies, 30, August, 6472.Google Scholar
Ward, R., Campbell, S. and Keady, J. 2016. ‘Gonna make yer gorgeous’: everyday transformation, resistance and belonging in the care-based hair salon. Dementia, 15, 3, 395413.Google Scholar
Ward, R. and Holland, C. 2011. ‘If I look old, I will be treated old’: hair and later-life image dilemmas. Ageing & Society, 31, 2, 288307.Google Scholar
Weitz, R. 2001. Women and their hair – seeking power through resistance and accommodation. Gender & Society, 15, 5, 667–86.Google Scholar
Weitz, R. 2005. Rapunzel's Daughters: What Women's Hair Tells Us About Women's Lives. Farrar, Straus and Giroux, New York.Google Scholar
Widdicombe, S. 1998. ‘But you don't class yourself’: the interactional management of category membership and non-membership. In Antaki, C. and Widdicombe, S. (eds), Identities in Talk. Sage, London, 5270.Google Scholar
Wooffitt, R. 2005. Conversation Analysis and Discourse Analysis: A Comparative and Critical Introduction. Sage, London.Google Scholar
Wooffitt, R. and Widdicombe, S. 2006. Interaction in interviews. In Drew, P., Raymond, G. and Weinberg, D. (eds), Talk and Interaction in Social Research Methods. Sage, London, 2849.Google Scholar
Wray, S. 2007. Women making sense of midlife: ethnic and cultural diversity. Journal of Aging Studies, 21, 1, 3142.Google Scholar