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DRESSED IN PHOTOGRAPHS: BETWEEN UNIFORMIZATION, SELF-ENHANCEMENT AND THE PROMOTION OF STARS AND LEADERS IN BAMAKO

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  18 November 2015

Ute Röschenthaler
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Abstract

Most literature on cloth focuses on its capacity as a medium of identity construction in relation to politics, economy, ethnicity, age and gender. As such, the equalizing properties of uniforms are often contrasted with the creation of individual styles of dress. This article discusses a further dimension in the complexity of the meanings of clothing: it explores the history, uses and local meanings of fabrics on which photographs of public personalities are printed in Bamako. In Bamako in the 2000s, entrepreneurs from different sectors of society, such as politics, religion, media, art, education and commerce, rediscovered this type of cloth as a business opportunity. They have produced decorated fancy textiles for events where large, heterogeneous groups of people participate most often, and where they multiply the image printed on their clothing. Some of these personalities distribute the cloth as promotional gifts, while others make their fans and followers purchase fabrics as evidence of their admiration. The uniforms decorated with photographs reflect a tendency towards asymmetrical relationships between the owners of the dresses and the personality depicted on them. Some of these relationships even encourage individual styles that transgress the uniform character of the dresses.

Résumé

L'essentiel de la littérature consacrée au tissu porte sur sa capacité en tant que moyen de construction d'identité dans le contexte politique, économique et ethnique, ainsi que dans le contexte de l’âge et du genre. À cet égard, les propriétés égalisatrices de l'uniforme sont souvent mises en contraste avec la création de styles vestimentaires individuels. Cet article traite d'une autre dimension dans la complexité des significations de la tenue vestimentaire ; il examine l'histoire, les usages et les significations locales des tissus sur lesquels sont imprimées des photos de personnalités publiques à Bamako. Dans les années 2000 à Bamako, des entrepreneurs de secteurs de la société aussi divers que la politique, la religion, les médias, l'art, l’éducation et le commerce, ont redécouvert ce type de tissu en tant qu'opportunité commerciale. Ils ont produit des textiles élaborés décorés pour des manifestations rassemblant le plus souvent d'importants groupes hétérogènes de personnes qui multiplient l'image imprimée sur leurs vêtements. Certaines de ces personnalités distribuent le tissu sous la forme de cadeaux promotionnels, tandis que d'autres font acheter le tissu à leurs fans et sympathisants en gage de leur admiration. Les uniformes décorés de photos reflètent une tendance vers des relations asymétriques entre les propriétaires des vêtements et la personnalité qui figure sur ces vêtements. Certaines de ces relations encouragent même des styles individuels qui transgressent le caractère uniforme des tenues vestimentaires.

Type
United in Dress
Information
Africa , Volume 85 , Issue 4 , November 2015 , pp. 697 - 721
Copyright
Copyright © International African Institute 2015 

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