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Beer in the late Ottoman Empire became a highly symbolic product used by contemporaries to either affirm or reject Europeanization. It was associated with individualism, a positive outlook onto the future, and mixed sex sociability. Its opponents rejected it as a product alien to local culture and social practices, and considered beer drinkers to be vainly glorifying European culture and displaying antisocial behavior. In Thessaloniki however, social inclusion or exclusion was negotiated along the possibility to enjoy and profit from beer.
In the early 1800s, beer was practically unknown in the Ottoman Empire outside of some expat communities. As of the 1830s, its production increased, but was restricted to small artisanal breweries and was the subject of NIMBY protests. By the 1860s and more so the 1880s, it gained popularity in mainstream society and as of the 1890s was produced in industrial quantities. Tax cuts succeeded in making the Ottoman market less dependent on imported beer and to establish local brands as market leaders.
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